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Snow Wheeling at Apex
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Perry Mack
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Perry Mack
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Perry Mack
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Perry Mack
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Perry Mack
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Perry Mack
By Perry Mack
Many 4WD enthusiasts use wintertime to tear their rigs apart and perform upgrades. Others only go out in the winter, preferring to avoid trail congestion, dust and heat. If you’re one of the former but are considering getting out to enjoy the crisp winter air and snow-filled forests, here’s some key tips to make it more fun and safe.
Getting Ready
Snow wheeling is like many other winter activities in the backcountry. You may only plan for a day trip but you need to prepare for an overnighter. A break down or sudden weather change can be inconvenient or life threatening – you get to choose.
Overnight supplies should include at minimum a blanket, snack bars and water. You’re going to be a little off the grid so make sure you tell someone who is staying behind what you route is and when you’ll be back. Depending on where you live or where you’re going - flares, a fully charged cell phone and/or a ham radio (license required) are really good ideas.
I have a bag that I keep in my truck during the winter – it’s got a pair of snow boots, toque, mitts, blanket and a heavy winter coat. If I'm stuck in the cold or have to stop to help someone else, it can be a lifesaver.
Layered clothing is best for most winter past times and snow wheeling is no exception. The goal is not to sweat. Sweat means wet means you’ll get a chill. You can be in your nice warm cab one minute, outside in the cold clearing the trail the next. Layering means you can adjust your clothing to maintain the perfect temperature.
Recovery Gear
You should take most of the same recovery gear that you use on summer trail rides – tools, a few lighter spare parts, and a good recovery strap designed for your vehicles weight. A recovery strap like Master-Pull Kinetic Recovery Rope works better than a traditional recovery strap because its’ elastic nature transfers the kinetic energy from the moving vehicle to the stuck one in a very smooth manor. This reduces the jerking action and stress on your vehicle. Tow straps do not have the elasticity needed for recovery and can cause more damage when using them for recovery. Make sure your tow hooks are securely mounted and in good shape. You do have tow hooks, don’t you?
In addition, a collapsible shovel to dig out your frame, axles and tires if they are just pushing snow. A chunk of 2’x2’ one inch plywood to place under your Hi-Lift jack so it doesn’t sink as deep into the snow if you have to use it. Alternately an exhaust jack works even better – it’s basically a large balloon with a 15’ hose that inflates using the exhaust from your vehicle. You can put it pretty much anywhere under the vehicle so you don’t have to worry about jack points, it has a large footprint so it doesn’t sink into the snow as much and it’s light – and especially in snow wheeling – light is right.
Vehicle Prep and Gear
Make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. Yes, it’s cold, but your engine can be working harder than summer wheeling because snow can provide a great deal more resistance on your summer trail. Check your coolant level and make sure you’ve changed it according to the recommended maintenance schedule – old coolant is less efficient than fresh coolant. Other typical ‘add-ons’ are a good idea including an extra cooling fan on your radiator, and if you’re running an automatic transmission - a transmission cooler.
Tires are a key component in snow wheeling. You’re looking for the largest, most flexible tire you can get. It’s all about flotation – just like a snowshoe. The more weight you distribute over a large surface the less you will sink in to the snow. A wider tire gives you more surface area as well as more tread in contact with the snow for traction. This is why a flexible sidewall plays an important roll. A ten-ply A/T tire is tough and durable but the sidewalls may not deflect as well airing down as a 6-ply tire.
And you will be airing down, possibly into the single digits. 20 psi is not going to cut it while snow wheeling - you will just spend your day and winching and digging. You are better off having to occasionally re-inflate because you burped out some air than not have enough traction because you’re afraid to air down. Blowing a bead is a concern but less so why snow wheeling because there is less lateral pressure on the tire due to the loss of friction. If you are some of the fortunate few to be running on beadlock wheels, you can practically run at 0 psi.
If you’re looking for a great all round tire with a legendary reputation in the snow buy the Mickey Thompson Baja Claw. It’s a wide tire with an aggressive edge tread for maximum flotation and traction.
Locking differentials are handy in any terrain and do help in some situations in the snow but not all. A selectable locker is preferable so you can turn it off while driving off-camber slopes but turn them on for pushing through deeper snow – keeping your tires turning at the same speed. Keep in mind that tires are more important than lockers. Many dedicated snow wheelers run open diffs with massive tires. For most terrain, a vehicle with 37” tires on 15” rims and open diffs will out-perform a vehicle with 35” tires on 17” rims with lockers. I mention the rim size because a smaller rim means a larger sidewall allowing for more deflection when you air down resulting in a larger footprint on the snow.
Reducing weight
The lighter you are, the better. One way is to leave the winch at home. Another vehicle and your recovery strap can work wonders. Can’t divorce yourself from your winch? Did you already buy the 15,000 lb winch with the steel cable? If not, you can probably get away with a smaller winch, synthetic cable and a hawse fairlead to save some weight.
You can leave the spare tire at home too. A small compressor, good patch kit with some extra plugs and some stainless wire to sew up a sidewall and you’re all set. This might sound scary for some of you but consider that it is possible and probable that one day you’ll have two blowouts on the same ride – you’ll need the patch kit and skills anyway – start now.
Leave the hard top at home, the soft top will keep you warm and reduce your weight – again. Perhaps you’re hard-core enough to not need a top at all? I would suggest you avoid this display of manliness. The first tree you bump will deposit a load of snow, pine needles and tree sap into your cab – no fun. And while you may be manly enough to tough out the daytime cold, if it turns into an overnighter – well, let’s just say that no one looks good in blue skin.
Driving Tips
As with summer wheeling, it’s about maintaining traction and picking a line. Picking a line is as much about what to avoid as what to look for. Tree wells are the forest equivalent of the black holes of out space – avoid them like the plague. For the uninitiated, a tree well is caused when the trees’ branches prevent a build-up of snow immediately around the trunk – literally creating a well that is as deep as the snow pack. If you get too close, the snow falls into the well drawing you down with it.
Momentum is your friend. Watch where you stop, preferably a down slope or on packed snow. Be aware of changing snow conditions. Snow in the sun can be wet and packed where the snow in the trees or north-facing slope can be light and deep.
When you get stuck avoid the natural instinct to gun it. Spinning your tires on a trail is similar to on a snow-covered street – it will melt the snow as you spin and then refreeze to ice when you stop. Once you’re out of this spot on the trail - you’ve created a headache for the guys behind you. The other negative effect of spinning is you’ll dig – deeper – until your tires get to the ground (now an icy hole) or your frame is resting on the snow.
Instead, back up a foot or so and gently throttle forward, if you don’t make it out, repeat. By going back and forth slowly, you’ll pack the snow down (which is better than spinning and spitting it out). The packed snow provides better traction and an easier way out than icy holes. If this doesn’t get you out, back up a little farther and try a different line to the right or left.
Avoid the temptation to “give ‘er” on a slope. Spinning your tires and losing traction will cause you to slide down slope – perhaps to places you don’t wish to see – like deep snow drifts, rocks, cliffs, snow-covered streams or a dreaded tree well.
Stay on the trail. Bashing through the snow can cause you some grief unless you are certain of the terrain without snow. That light fluffy snow you’re plowing through is perfect for hiding rocks and tree stumps.
Take turns in the lead. Breaking trail can be tough on a vehicle. By taking turns, you allow parts like the transmission and T-case to cool down. After breaking trail, make sure your radiator and air filter are clear of snow.
It’s best to go with someone who knows the trail and alternate routes. The trail you traveled downwards on the way in may not be navigable upwards on the way out. Assess the trail snow conditions and plan for alternate routes.
Thanks to members of 4wheelbc.com for contributing photos and on the trail experience.