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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
1. If you are adding a bunch of electrical gizmos to an already overloaded electrical system, a weatherproof switch panel like this 6 switch kit we picked up from Painless Performance may save your bacon and time. High quality switches and covers, with indicator lamp and connectors included. Circuit breakers and inline fuses are available too.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
2. Here is a pic of a few things going on. The wires are routed through the bumper and protected with a grommet. A properly sized crimp connector is screwed down for a good grounding point. A Ty-Wrap mount is used to keep the wires from vibrating loose. Although the bane of our electrical existence, split loom does a good job of keeping wires organized and protected.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
3. Having a switch panel makes organizing your devices much easier to manage. Circuit additions or alteration in the future are easier to accomplish when you have a setup like this. No trail rig is ever done, is it?
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
4. Create a diagram for your switch locations. It’s easier to change it around on paper than after the final installation.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
5. We really like these heat-shrink style crimp connectors. They allow a solid wire connection and seal out any dirt or moisture that may enter the joint. For high current connections, we prefer to nut and bolt our terminals together and tape them up. For future additions, this method is pretty slick even if it does take a little more time and effort.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
6. With the switch center buttoned up and sealed covers on our switches, this job is done. Notice the easy to read tags for each switch. We also have two spare switch locations for any widgets we may need in the future.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
7. Organizing your wiring under the hood is just as important as in the switch centre. Our hatred of split loom covering led us to use this spiral wrap to bundle our wire together. It is available from most electrical suppliers but it is also used to bundle hydraulic lines on heavy equipment and as such, can be found at many hydraulic shops.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
8. Painless Performance makes these fuse panel covers to protect against the elements. The cover fits snugly around the perimeter of the blocks. We had an additional relay on our panel, but just used a heat gun to warm up the thermal plastic of the cover to make room.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
9. We scored these 30 amp Bosch sealed relays from our local u-pull-it yard off a Chevy Blazer. High quality OEM units like these are hard to beat, and the mounting bracket will neaten up the installation. The two on the left are ready to be installed and the others will just stay there for spares or future additions. Not bad for under $10.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
10. Automotive wiring needs to have high temperature handling capability, flexibility, and resistance to oil hardening. Multi strand conductors are able to handle the vibration, and we find that for our larger cable needs like a winch, welding cable fits the bill. Leave the house wire for the house, not your rig.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
11. Finding out exactly what a conductor is good for is normally printed on the jacket. This is a #4 AWG that is good to 125 C when moving all the time, 150 C when standing still and it can handle 600 Volts.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
12. Weather tight Weather Pack connectors like these are great for junctions that you take apart frequently. This is for our trailer plug on our trail rig so we can reliably splice into our taillight harness. You can get the DIY kits locally or off the net. Pick up the proper crimping tool while you are at it.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
13. Label your wires now before you forget what they do and where they go. This pocket pack was cheap and will last you for years.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
14. The universal wiring colour code for connectors is pretty easy to follow. Red is for #22 to #18, blue is for #16 and #14, and yellow is for #12 and #10. Remember, use the proper crimp! These standard insulated connectors work well, but we still prefer the shrink-wrap style for our projects if we have the choice.
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Off-Road Essentials - Electrical
Story & Photos by Bryan Irons
It wasn’t that long ago, that I recall a comedy of errors during a wheeling trip. A cold November day beckoned a friend to quickly get a rig together for the annual Christmas Toy Run. While riding shotgun in the freshly cobbled together CJ-5, I experienced just about every major electrical problem imaginable during that one trip. It started with an electrical fire due to improperly routed wires in the engine bay, proceeded to blown fuses from overloaded circuits, then the electric cooling fan chewed a hole in the radiator and proceeded to swamp the alternator with water, eventually shorting it out. If that weren’t enough, while trying to get back home with our tails between our legs, the battery died. I take my rig now.
Whether you’re installing a set of driving lights, putting in a new high output alternator, or doing a complete rewire of your rig; wire size, circuit loading, and wiring techniques need to be considered. Despite advances in technology, the same basic and universal principals of electricity hold true today. Rather then delve in to the seemingly endless library of mathematics involved in electrical systems; let’s look at why these principals are essential.
Wire sizing charts can be looked up almost anywhere to determine what you should run, but why? It’s about heat management. As a wire is loaded with current, it produces heat. Raise the level of current and the amount of heat increases as well. Heat is the enemy to any electrical system, the wires included. If the size of wire is upped, the more current and heat it can handle before it melts down. For vehicles, size your wires to the amount of current that will flow through them.
There is, however, another component to wire sizing, and that is “Voltage Drop”. As electricity flows from the battery to the device it is powering, some voltage is lost along the way. The longer the wire, the more the voltage will drop. Not a hard and fast rule, but about 1 volt of drop between your battery and whatever device you are powering while it is loaded is typically acceptable.
All the electrical widgets we pack on a wheeling trip can be taxing on a charging system not designed or intended for the added load. The fuses in the system are there to protect wires in the event the current gets too high for the cables to handle or in the event of a short circuit. If you find you are constantly blowing fuses, upping the size of the fuse is the wrong approach to take. Do some investigative work and see what is causing the problem. Perhaps a new line is needed to run all the devices in your rig.
This brings up the question of wiring methods. Taking a little extra time during an install can go a long way, and may even save your life. Power source, wire and fuse sizing as well as wire routing is just the beginning. Will a relay be required? How will the wires be protected? Will it always be powered, or just when the ignition is “on”? Small things like using grommets when placing wire through sheet metal and using the proper tools when making connections affect the life span of your install.
I have yet to meet a wheeler who looks forward to doing electrical work on their rig. Wiring is one of those necessary evils that cannot be ignored. Take your time to do the job right the first time, and ask questions if you’re not sure. Although a new set of seats, or an axle upgrade may give you more satisfaction, the peace of mind of a proper electrical system is hard to beat. After all, it’s hard to hit the trails if your rig burns to the ground in your driveway.
Painless Performance - 817-244-6212, www.painlessperformance.com