Three Amazing Days in Nanaimo

Once you land your boat in ‘Harbour City,’ be prepared for a full, rich getaway on Vancouver Island.

by

Words by Jamie Moore

Planning for a boating destination just makes sense. It provides the chance to make the most of your time away on land or the water and offers the chance to discover new attractions you may have otherwise overlooked. 

It’s especially important to have a plan when visiting Vancouver Island. One of the reasons why Naniamo attracts so many boaters every season is its fresh and saltwater experiences are easily accessible and there are many points of interest to enjoy in its city centre. A good starting point is making a three-day itinerary. Here’s an inside look at some of the favourite things to do by locals in what is called the island’s ‘Harbour City.’

Day 1

Beaches, Boating, and Nautical Good Times

An adventure by boat in Nanaimo can start with experiencing the local seafood and the Left Coaster at the farm-to-fork favourite Gabriel’s Cafe on Commercial St. sets a positive vibe. Opt for the wild smoked salmon and scrambled eggs in a tortilla with cream cheese, green onions, lettuce and tomato, plus a side of pan fries. Taste for yourself why locals voted the Left Coaster the ‘best breakfast’ in the 2022 Best of the City awards.

Following breakfast, hit the water and try cold-water snorkelling. There are three fantastic diving outfits to choose from including Sundown Diving, Sink or Swim Scuba and Nanaimo Dive Outfitters. Slip into a wetsuit, booties, and gloves, then put on a mask, and follow your experienced guide into waters that Jacques Cousteau once raved about. The brilliant starfish, anemones, nudibranchs, and harbour seals are hard to miss.

Afterwards, enjoy some comfort food at McLean’s Specialty Foods, which is a deli in the Old City Quarter. It serves baked goods, fresh soups, as well as truffles, pâtés, and other tasty treats.

You have a few choices in the afternoon. Perhaps walk along the winding trails and stop at the seaside lookouts of Pipers Lagoon and Neck Point Park; observe Bald Eagles and great herons in their natural habitat; or do some quality beachcombing while admiring the scenic view of the expansive ocean. 

If you prefer a more immersive experience, schedule a kayaking tour with Island Römer Adventures. Paddle the sculpted shoreline of Saysutshun/Newcastle Island and learn about the island’s fascinating Indigenous history.

Next, navigate your way to the Dinghy Dock Pub, which is the only registered floating pub in Canada. It's also easily accessed by the Protection Connection ferry, which can shuttle you from the downtown Nanaimo wharf to the restaurant and pub. 

There’s more than 90 m (300 ft) of dock space for tenders, kayaks, and other small boats but has limited moorage for larger vessels. Space is available on a first-come, first-serve basis. Once here, you’ll want to try the seafood poutine or creamy chowder, followed by a hearty plate of fish ’n chips. Choose from halibut, salmon or cod. 

After dinner, catch the ferry back to Nanaimo and enjoy a relaxing evening along the quiet shores. Another option is to try the Coast Bastion Hotel or the new Courtyard Marriott Nanaimo Downtown that have excellent views of the water. 

Day 2

Exploring the City’s Art, History and Local Culture

Start your morning with a freshly brewed cup of coffee at any of the popular Cafés and then enjoy another breakfast at the Coast Bastion’s Minnoz Restaurant and Lounge. The weekend brunch is delicious and its smoked salmon Charlotte Benny is hard to resist.

Set aside this part of the day to explore Nanaimo’s harbourside on foot. A five-minute walk from Minnoz leads to the Vancouver Island Military Museum. This is where you can learn about Canada’s contribution to peacekeeping efforts around the world - from the War of 1812 to the conflicts in Afghanistan. 

You’ll also want to see the nearby Nanaimo Museum and walk through a replica coal mine or see what life was like in a traditional Indigenous longhouse. If you’re an art aficionado, you can easily get lost in one of Nanaimo’s many art galleries. The Nanaimo Art Gallery and Artzi Stuff located along Commercial St. are great options.  

After exploring the exhibits and displays, go for a stroll along the Harbourfront Walkway, admire the boats in the marina, watch the seaplanes come and go, and simply appreciate the slower pace of island life.

Pop into Javawocky for an essential coffee and classic Nanaimo Bar on the official Nanaimo Bar Trail, then sip and savour as you explore Maffeo Sutton Park. The walkway is a comfortably busy place all year as locals and visitors are drawn to the al fresco public art including an Indigenous totem. 

The new waterfront playground here is ideal for all ages and abilities. Dip your toes in Swy-a-Lana Lagoon, which is also a great place for a saltwater swim, or make a wish on the arched bridge. You can’t miss the intertidal zone creatures on the steps leading into the water.

When you visit around noon, you’ll be steps away from the Lighthouse Bistro and Pub. Sitting on the patio while sharing calamari or curried steamed mussels from Salt Spring Island (paired with a craft beer) is a recipe for a perfect summer day.  Another option is to enjoy lunch from a food truck along with homegrown or homemade goodies at the lively Cedar Farmer’s Market. It’s open on Sundays from Mother’s Day weekend through October. 

Afterwards, charter a saltwater fishing, crabbing or prawning boat with Coastal Blue Adventures and learn the ways of local fishermen (and then perhaps practice a few of their techniques later in your trip).  Watch for sea lions, humpback whales, orcas, and eagles that enjoy life in one of the richest marine environments on the planet. Whether you’re trolling for salmon or setting traps for delicious Dungeness, a day on a professional charter boat is an unforgettable experience. 

Looking for something to do on a rainy day? Book the Taste of Nanaimo Craft Beverage and Culinary Tour with Vancouver Island Expeditions. Sip by sip and nibble by nibble, you can discover Nanaimo’s family-owned vineyards, breweries, distilleries and farm-to-table food producers. If you prefer a self-guided tour, check out TourismNanaimo.com’s Sip and Savour page with suggestions for local DIY tasting experiences.

Of course, save room for an incredible dinner and treat yourself to exquisitely plated seafood at The View Oceanside Grill downtown. Then, catch a show at the Port Theatre that’s across the street from the wharf. Performances range from the symphony and ballet to musicals, comedy and more.

Round out your evening with a flight of local craft beer at Cliffside Brewing* or White Sails Brewing. This is a ‘Best of the City’ favourite craft brewery with its live music, board games, and laid-back atmosphere. It’s also part of the popular BC Ale Trail.

Day 3

A Quick Getaway to Gabriola Island 

Plan an adventure to one of the Gulf Islands –  Gabriola. It’s about a 20-minute run (or even take the BC Ferries) from downtown Nanaimo. There are lots of territories to cover so give yourself plenty of time on this ‘Isle of the Arts.’ 

For instance, your first stop should be Malaspina Galleries. This dramatic sandstone rock formation at the water’s edge looks like a frozen wave. Next, spend some time relaxing in nearby Gabriola Sands Provincial Park’s ‘Twin Beaches.’

Do lunch like a local with a sandwich or wrap from Mad Rona’s Coffee Bar. Then, in the  afternoon, visit the island’s south end to take in the ocean views at Drumbeg Provincial Park. On a clear day, you can see Mt. Baker in Washington. 

A trip isn’t complete without a stop at the Agi Hall farmer’s market or visiting an artist at one of the island’s many artist studios. At some point, you’ll likely cross paths with wild turkeys on the road. 

Before the cruise back to Nanaimo, enjoy dinner at the Woodfire Restaurant and try the gourmet wood-fired pizza or end the day with sunset views and dinner at Surf Lodge & Pub. Dine in or enjoy some take-out back to your slip. Regardless, don’t be surprised if you find yourself making plans over dinner for a return trip to this magical part of British Columbia for next season.

*Cliffside Brewing has unfortunately closed since this article was published.