Words by Steve Fennell
Many areas throughout the BC Coast and Pacific Northwest are regarded as some of the most beautiful in North America. So, when other boaters explain that Desolation Sound Marine Park may be the most beautiful, it’s a destination to certainly plan for during the 2023 season.
East of Cortes Island and north of the Sunshine Coast at the junction of Malaspina Inlet and Homfray Channel, Desolation Sound Marine Park consists of a secluded, quiet maze of scattered islands with several inlets, coves and bays with towering fjords in the distance. It spans more than 2,428 ha (6,000 ac) of water and shoreline, making it the largest park of its kind in BC and quite possibly the most enjoyable one for adventurous boaters.
The park’s rich landscape consists of dominating snow-capped mountains that tailor down to steep alpine forests that blend almost seamlessly with the crystal-clear water. Throughout the park are cascading waterfalls, scenic rustic shorelines, and hidden routes and anchorages. It’s where you can stay on the hook for days, using your boat as a home base to scuba dive, snorkel, swim, fish and enjoy paddle sports.
Kayaking is very popular throughout the sound and it’s not uncommon to see groups slicing through the water north from Lund Harbour or Okeover Harbour Government Dock in Okeover Arm Provincial Park. This is a more secluded route with less traffic but boaters always need to be cautious of paddlers and mind their wakes.
A. Davey
Find true solitude in Melanie Cove, one of the park’s many anchorages.
Backcountry camping is common but should be done only in designated areas and it’s common to see groups at any given time along the rugged shore with their colourful kayaks. In all, there are 11 campgrounds in Desolation Sound, the Copeland Islands and Malaspina Provincial Marine parks, which make up the park. Permits must be purchased before visiting and can be purchased at https://bcparks.ca/registration. According to BC parks, if the online system is not available, permits are available in Okeover Arm Provincial Park or Lund Harbour at the BC Parks’ kiosks.
During your journey to Desolation Sound, you're likely to encounter a variety of wildlife. From observing bald eagles and Kingfishers to Great Blue Herons and Oyster Catchers, birding is popular so be sure to bring your guidebook and a good set of binoculars. You’ll also want to have an empty memory card for your digital SLR as other wildlife sightings include black bears, humpback whales, dolphins, and porpoises.
Once at an anchorage, days can be enjoyed just relaxing on your boat with nothing but other boaters, calm water, and crisp blue skies. There are several nooks, crannies, coves, and inlets that you can call your own for a while and the following are all great places to begin your experiences.
A. Davey
Prideaux Haven is considered one of the most scenic anchorages throughout the entire BC coast.
Prideaux Haven
This anchorage is located at the base of the park and is an excellent choice to enjoy time and time again. Considered by many to be the most scenic moorages in the sound, Prideaux Haven is tucked between Eveleigh and Scobell islands and consists of scattered inlets, warm waters, and rich vegetation all framed by the towering coastal mountains. Paddleboards, kayaks and yacht tenders are the best ways to discover the area.
A. Davey
Grace Harbour.
Grace Harbour
This is another well-known anchorage and is a narrow bay situated on the Gifford Peninsula near Malaspina Inlet. One of the appealing characteristics is it provides ideal shelter with its forested shores. You’ll be amazed at its serenity even when the winds are blowing strong elsewhere in the sound.
Should space be limited for everyone onboard to sleep comfortably, there is a campground at the end of the bay as well as opportunities to go hiking. Of special note is a trail system at the harbour’s north end that leads to a small, freshwater lake. With limited facilities, there are pit toilets and an information shelter.
A. Davey
Another perspective of Melanie Cove. Boats of all shapes and sizes anchor here and throughout the marine park.
Tenedos Bay
Located south of Prideaux Haven along the Homfray Channel, Tenedos Bay offers some breathtaking anchorages on the north shore as well as the head of the bay where there are also camping facilities and pit toilets. After you’ve fished, enjoyed paddleboarding or swam in its warm water, perhaps enjoy some hiking on a designated trail to Unwin Lake.
Kayaking to nearby Mink, Curme and Otter islands is also fun to do.
Other scenic anchorages include behind a tiny inlet at the south end of Thors Cove (which is just outside the park) and Wootton Bay with a number of temporary places to stay on the hook and provide protection from westerly winds (but it’s exposed to winds from the south or southeast).
If you prefer to avoid some of the crowds that commonly visit in the summer, early June and mid-September are fantastic times to come as well. Not only will you have a quieter experience, but fewer boaters mean less impact on wildlife and the environment. However, thoroughly plan your trip to Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park so you can enjoy it to the fullest. Many resources are available and for all of the details visit www.bcparks.ca and www.sunshinecoastcanada.com.