Set Your Course to Orcas Island

Plan to take some time to discover this expansive destination in the San Juans as it’s a journey all its own.

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Words by Barbara Marrett

The San Juan Islands have been a favorite destination for visitors for over a century. As boaters are always looking for a safe place to relax and enjoy a slower pace, cruising here makes more sense now than ever. Stunning backdrops of snow-capped mountains and wide-open seascapes typify anchorages. Summer sunsets linger long into the evening, inviting boaters to enjoy a twilight meal ashore or a quiet paddle in the calm waters of the Salish Sea. At night in late summer look for bioluminescence – magical sparkles in the nutrient-laden waters that support rich marine life to include jellyfish, oysters, crab, and salmon to seals, dolphins and orca whales.

Orcas Island, the tallest, largest and most geographically diverse of the San Juan Islands, towers over the seascape. It’s home to several protected marinas, small bays and anchorages. Ashore, there are miles of hiking trails and biking paths. The charming hamlets of Deer Harbor, Olga, Doe Bay, West Sound and Orcas Village all have nearby docks or mooring buoys and an array of art galleries, potteries and farm-to-table restaurants.

East Sound is the largest of the three major sounds indenting the southern side of Orcas Island. This fjord-like body of water essentially splits the island into eastern and western lobes. The Village of Eastsound, the largest village on Orcas, is centrally located at the head of the Sound and provides the most variety of goods and services on the Island. A well-stocked grocery store, liquor store, hardware store, movie theater, performing arts center, pharmacy and a co-op, provide much more than just the basics for boaters. 

An enticing array of small retail shops, eateries and galleries also make it a favorite destination. Try a chocolate muffin or savory quiche at Brown Bear Baking, sample a flight of Island Hoppin’ Brewery ales, or enjoy wine tasting at Doe Bay Wine Company. Acclaimed restaurants offer everything from pizza cooked in wood-fired ovens to fresh seafood menu items. 

Find out about the island’s early Coast Salish inhabitants and settlers at the Orcas Island Historical Museum. Take home some island goods, such as Island Thyme body care products, or tour the Girl Meets Dirt kitchen to shop and sample their preserves and shrubs. 

Walk the waterfront labyrinth at Emmanuel Episcopal Church. And, on Saturdays, visit the sprawling, colorful farmers market, which takes over the Eastsound Green in the heart of the village. Arrive hungry; go home full and laden with fresh food to restock your galley.

Anchor in to 5 to 18 m (30 to 60 ft) of water just off of the town, but be aware that southerly winds often funnel into this long, exposed anchorage, creating fetch. A small public dinghy float located on Madrona Point to the east of Fishing Bay, about a 10-minute walk from town, is the best place to tie up for an extended trip to the village. 

What’s new? The Islands are known as the “Gourmet Archipelago,” and the reputation keeps growing as renowned chefs are drawn to the islands. The New Leaf Café in the historic Outlook Inn in Eastsound village has a new chef from Italy who has been wowing customers. The Mansion Restaurant at Rosario, as well as the Doe Bay Café, and Kingfish Inn in West Sound also all have new chefs focused on delicious, hyper-local, island-grown food. Buck Bay Shellfish has a new alfresco café and the Orcas Hotel was recently purchased by husband and wife chefs who have been knocking it out of the park with take-out and dine-in meals.

Marinas, Docks & Mooring Buoys

Brandt’s Landing is a good bet for those who wish to explore Eastsound village without anchoring in exposed East Sound. It’s conveniently located in the center of the north shore of Orcas Island. Some transient moorage with shore power and potable water for boats up to 15 m (50 ft) is available. The marina is located just a 20-minute walk from Eastsound village.

For more details contact (360) 376-4477, http://brandtslandingmarina.net, sjharbormaster@gmail.com. 

Halfway up East Sound along the eastern shore, find the Rosario Resort & Spa Marina in Cascade Bay. The 30-slip marina has recently been reconfigured and rebuilt. It’s a great place to moor for those who wish to explore nearby Moran State Park with its swimmable lakes, Cascade waterfall and extensive hiking trails. One of the best views in the Islands is from atop Mt. Constitution in the Park, which stands 734 m (2,409 ft). Included with moorage, marina guests can enjoy the family pool, restrooms, showers, power and potable water. Spa passes are additional. In summer, the small store is open and casual marina-side dining is available at the Cascade Grill.

The eight nearby resort mooring buoys are first-come, first-served. Non-marina customers are expected to pay an anchoring landing fee for the use of the pool, shower and restrooms. Day use up to two hours is free on a space-available basis, at the discretion of the harbormaster, while shopping and dining at the resort.

Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the resort’s captivating arts and crafts-style Moran Mansion. At 4:00 p.m. most afternoons in the summer, enjoy manager Christopher Peacock’s free slide show and concert in the historic music room. Complete with Tiffany glass chandeliers and a massive pipe organ, the room and adjacent museum are much the same as when the mansion was built by Robert Moran circa 1909. It’s an Orcas Island must-see. Consider cocktails and fine dining in the Mansion Restaurant after the concert or a day of exploring. For more information be sure to contact (360) 376-2152 ext.700 (800) 562-8820 www.rosarioresort.com, harbormaster@rosarioresort.com

At the entrance to East Sound, along the eastern shore, find the tiny hamlet of Olga, where a dock and mooring float are available in peak season. The nearby Olga Pottery and Orcas Island Artworks, with its excellent café, make it worth a stop. On the opposite side of Buck Bay from Olga, Buck Bay Shellfish is a fresh seafood lover's destination.

Continuing southeast around the bend from Olga, you’ll find a few mooring buoys, trails, campsites and toilets at Obstruction Pass State Park at the entrance to Obstruction Pass. Once through the pass, let your stomach be your guide as you head east to Doe Bay Resort and Retreat. There’s one mooring buoy and room for half a dozen small boats to anchor. The Doe Bay Café serves some of the best and freshest food in the Islands, and a soak in the clothing-optional spa is always popular with boaters.

Going in the opposite direction, heading west from East Sound through Harney Channel, you’ll round the southwestern tip of the island, into West Sound. At the northern end is West Sound Marina. This family-owned operation has a chandlery and offers repairs and haul-outs (up to 30 tons). Guest moorage is available along with a fuel dock, propane, 30-amp power, restrooms, plus shower and pump-out facilities. It’s a short walk from the marina to the Kingfish Inn, where new chef/owner Raymond Southern and his wife Holly have made it a must-stop for excellent, casual dining. Also, about 5 km (3 mi), one can access the south trailhead for Turtleback Preserve, where a network of trails leads to a summit with unparalleled views.

Further details can be found at www.westsoundmarina.net, info@westsoundmarina.com or by calling (360) 376-2314. 

Leaving West Sound and continuing west into Deer Harbor, you’ll find Deer Harbor Marina, which is a popular stop for cruisers. Its small store has groceries, beer and wine; and serves snacks, espresso and ice cream. Spacious showers, restrooms, fuel, power, pump-outs and free Wi-Fi are available. The marina is in the process of expanding for the 2021 Season. A variety of charters and tours leave from Deer Harbor and kayak and electric bike rentals are available. Across the street, you’ll find a pool open to marina guests and the popular My Island Pie pizza restaurant. About a half-km away (approximately .5 mi), the Deer Harbor Inn Restaurant, a long-time favorite among cruisers, has started serving barbeque.

All details can be found by visiting www.deerharbormarina.com mbroman@deerharbormarina.com or contacting (360) 376 3037.

Orcas Island is a great place to jump off to explore the nearby surrounding Washington State Marine Parks’ islands such as Jones, Sucia, Matia and Patos Islands. The Port of Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor Marina, both on San Juan Island, are ports of entry and popular boater destinations, especially for those headed to or from Canada. Roche Harbor is a historic resort village and Friday Harbor is a charming, walkable town with The Whale Museum, San Juan Historical Museum, San Juan Islands Museum of Art, a movie theatre, performing arts center, brewery, cider tasting room, dozens of shops and restaurants all within 4 sq km (1.5 sq mi). Marine supplies and repairs are available at Roche Harbor and Friday Harbor.

Getting Around

Orcas Island Car Rentals (206) 705-3999, orcascars.com will pick up or deliver a car to most marinas. Electric bikes and regular bikes are available for rent in Eastsound village and at Deer Harbor Marina. Hitch-hiking is also acceptable in the Islands. In a typical summer, San Juan Transit’s weekend shuttle serves many of Orcas Island’s marinas. They also run a daily shuttle on San Juan Island.

San Juan islanders ask you to please be kind to the natural environment by avoiding anchoring in eelgrass and following the San Juan Islands “7 Principles of Leave No Trace” (www.visitsanjuans.com/leave-no-trace). Also, be aware of fellow creatures and follow the Be Whale Wise Guidelines when around whales and marine mammals (www.visitsanjuans.com/be-whale-wise). As we deal with Covid-19, always be sure to check with the San Juan Islands travel advisory at www.visitsanjuans.com/travel-advisory to find out the latest guidelines.

Enjoy your visit safely! 

Barbara Marrett is the Communications and Stewardship Manager for the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau.

(*Ed Note: Prior to publication the Canadian/U.S. border was closed. Be sure to visit https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/services/covid/menu-eng.html  to find the latest border measures related to Covid-19.)