Andrew Strain
Wide open cruising can be enjoyed on route to Cortes Island.
Words by Steve Fennell
Far from the crowds and stress of the city, the Discovery Islands sprawl amongst the northern end of the Salish Sea between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland. While you can go further north up the coast for more isolation, the “Discoveries” are a destination all their own. Plus, once you learn they have been named British Columbia’s best-kept secret by The National Geographic, you just know their worth a visit this season.
Activities abound in the Discovery Islands and kayaking is one of the most popular while the excellent swimming, world-class salmon fishing, paddle boarding, and exploring are a close tie. So bring your gear, tender, and water toys to unwind, relax and destress.
Of the Discovery Islands (10 in all), Quadra and Cortes are the most populated. Even though they both have many of the same services when needed, Cortes is known to be less busy of the two with quaint, isolated moorages never too far away. In fact, Cortes has one full-service marina, a yacht club (that’s open to members of other select clubs), and government docks for additional mooring options. Three main communities account for many of the services and are all worth a visit during your stay.
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Dale Simonson
The shores of Mansons Landing and Squirrel Cove.
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A. Davey
The shores of Mansons Landing and Squirrel Cove.
Squirrel Cove
Tucked in on the east side of the island at the south end of the Lewis Channel is Squirrel Cove that offers access to the Squirrel Cove Trading Co. – a one-stop shop for fuel, groceries, fruits and vegetables, housewares, and more. Public washrooms, showers, potable water, even laundry, and a post office are on site. While accommodating, it’s important to remember its dock is only accessible during high tide and is 1.8 m (6 ft) below the local tide chart – so always plan accordingly.
Nonetheless, it’s where you can refuel with gas or diesel, and even fill up your propane tank. What’s more, short- and long-term mooring options are available at the neighbouring government dock that’s complete with water, electricity, and garbage facilities.
During peak season, The Squirrel Cove Sunday Market is popular among boaters as local vendors sell fresh produce, baked goods plus local art, and crafts. There is also The Cove Restaurant as well as the Flying Squirrel, which offers take-out for burgers, pizza, seafood, vegetarian options, and more to conveniently take back to your boat.
Dale Simonson
The deep green scenery on route to Whaletown.
Whaletown
Once home to a whaling station that operated in the late 1800s, this island community is now known as the gateway to Cortes. It’s located on the island’s west side and offers boaters access to another government dock with transient moorage, full hydro, garbage disposal, and a kayak launch. Whaletown also has a post office and is where a BC Ferry Terminal operates with service to Heriot Bay on Quadra Island.
If the government dock is at capacity, nearby is The Gorge Harbour Marina Resort, just east of Whaletown off Desolation Sound in protected Gorge Harbour. This full-service marina has been upgraded with 549 m (1,800 ft) of protected dock space in recent years to accommodate boats of practically any size and services include gas/diesel, transient moorage, 50- and 30-amp shorepower, potable water, and a general store with marine supplies and fishing gear.
In true resort-style, the expansive, waterfront grounds include a swimming pool, plus a variety of accommodations to include a lodge, cottage, and two self-contained trailers. RV camping is also available and there are more than 30 sites, ranging from full/partial service to no services.
Another popular attraction is The Floathouse Restaurant. It’s fully licensed, features fresh seafood, various west coast flavours, and offers indoor and outdoor dining with great views of the harbour.
A Davey
There are many secluded, gorgeous anchorages all around Cortes including nearby Prideaux Haven.
Mansons Landing
This is the main settlement on Cortes, located near the southern tip of the island. There’s another government dock with garbage disposal and hydro and these are the only docks in the immediate area.
Being the main hub on the island, Mansons Landing has a health clinic, motel, series of B&Bs, and a Natural Food Co-op grocery store and café. Want more variety? Visit The Cortes Market that offers fresh produce, canned and dry goods, ice, hardware, liquor, even WiFi access. There’s also a deli and coffee bar.
When it comes to enjoying the outdoors here, Mansons Landing Provincial Park is tough to beat. There’s water access at Manson Bay and Hague Lake. While the lake has a sand beach and where you can cool off in freshwater, Manson Lagoon lends many opportunities to view marine wildlife. A trail of approximately 1 km (.6 mi) offers dual access to both areas.
There are many places to explore in the Discovery Islands and Cortes is just one viable option. It can pull double duty as a main destination or the gateway to the many other natural attractions found throughout the area. Either way, it’s a destination to easily visit, and finding the time to enjoy everything it has to offer is highly recommended.
Shelley Pauls
For more information visit www.ourcortes.com or www.squirrelcove.com
*Ed note: Be sure to contact the local marinas, restaurants, and the variety of businesses on Cortes Island prior to your visit for current hours of operation or temporary closures due to COVID-19 regulations.