the Hulks at Powell River
by Barb Rees, photo by Dean Unger
Being a “snowbird” has become a rite of passage for thousands of Canadians. Why not stay north of the border this year and be a “homebird” instead? It won’t cost you hundreds of dollars in fuel to get there. BC doesn’t have desert-like warmth in December, but we have just as much to offer RV’ers. Especially on BC’s West Coast with its temperate climate; fall to spring camping is not only do-able but enjoyable.
Located on the Sunshine Coast, Powell River has several inexpensive retreats that are open year-round in exquisite settings. We don’t go up the logging roads to the lakes and forestry campsites that the hardy hikers and ATV’ers relish - our favorite campsite is right in town, run by the City of Powell River, at Willingdon Beach Campsite.
Overlooking the beach from the comfort of our trailer or camper van, the patter of rain on the roof soothes while we watch the sun sink behind Vancouver Island. I love being only five minutes from home, just in case the wine runs out. Yet, it feels like we’re far from our busy life: we are surrounded by forest, yet lattés and fresh baked goodies are only a block away at Breakwater Books. Afterward, you can walk it off on Willingdon Beach Trail where the squirrels chatter and beg for peanuts. The trail is about one kilometer long and wheelchair accessible.
During one of few December snow-falls in Powell River, campers decorated the trees and put lights on their units, creating quite a festive air. You sure can’t beat the winter rates: from Oct.1 to May 30, seniors only pay $24 for a powered beach site. I asked a full-timer from the Okanagan who is wintering here for five months, why he didn’t go south? “Because I’d get sick worrying about the high cost of insurance in case I got sick,” he replied.
Or, if this doesn't suit you, try getting right out of town for free wilderness camping. Dinner Rock Regional Park, located 18 km north of Powell River, is free year-round, but it’s not suitable for big rigs or long trailers. The 1.5 km narrow road down from the highway is steep, and the 13 sites are designed for compact camping. If you’re camping off-season, bring your own wood and water. Set up in one of the four lots overlooking Savary Island and the Malaspina Strait. Instead of looking into an RV neighbor’s window, you’ll look into the textures of the forest. Last time we camped there, we sat on the bluffs thinking we’d won the lottery of beauty and peacefulness. There we were, tucked away under the evergreens and twisted Arbutus trees, with music by nature… It was awesome! kingfishers chatter, bald eagles call, ravens whoosh above, and red-billed oyster catchers laugh at us. At night, a darkened sky, far away from city lights, twinkled with stars. We slept wrapped in silence.
Inland Lake Provincial Park is closed for a short period over the deep of winter, but is worth mentioning. We often escape the computer here for a day away. About 20 minutes up a good gravel road from Powell River, the park offers a 13 km, wheelchair accessible trail around the lake. The Park offers two wheelchair friendly cabins and 22 camp sites, making wilderness camping do-able no matter the physical challenges. Paddle your canoe or kayak to the song of the loons.
South of Powell River, about 27 km (or one km coming north from the Saltery Bay Ferry), Saltery Bay Provincial Park is free from Oct.15 to May 15. Although the water is shut off, about half of the 42 sites are available. It is kept open to accommodate scuba divers descending to the Emerald Princess - a bronze mermaid standing in 10 fathoms (about 60 ft.) of water. A wheelchair accessible change-room, and showers and a boat ramp to the ocean are kept open for the divers. Jacques Cousteau once said that this is one of the best dive-sites in the world because of the abundance of sea life and clarity of water - especially in the winter. It was here that non-swimmer me passed the diving course in chilly February temperatures. I shook the mermaid’s hand and survived. We’ve camped here in the winter, and enjoyed the quiet of the park with few people around. Although none of the sites overlook the ocean, it’s a short walk down to the beach, with picnic tables under sprawling Arbutus trees. A day-use park next to this campsite has a boat ramp, picnic area and a beautiful backdrop for weddings.
Snugging up to the park's boundaries is Kent’s Beach Resort, another beach-front campground that is open year-round. Here, seniors get a 10% discount. There are 20 partial hook-ups, a sani-dump and a mobile sani-service in case you don’t want to move your rig. This park is fairly flat and great for bigger units.
The West Coast's winter beauty and temperate climate makes dozens of places like Powell River inexpensive RV retreats. Save yourself cross-border hassles and high-cost health insurance. Never again worry about whether your pet food has beef in it, or that Uncle Joe’s moose steaks will be tossed, or what to do about that crate of homemade wine. Pack your RV with all the comforts of home, your sense of adventure, and your love affair with Mother Nature, and become a home-bird - not a snowbird - for a rejuvenating winter holiday.
Important resources: Weather - Road conditions Dump stations