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James Stoness photos
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James Stoness photos
Story & photos by James Stoness
From the air the Îles de la Madeleine look like a long cluster of sand dunes that have lost their way. Lost indeed! The Magdalen Islands are 145 kilometres north of Prince Edward Island and 210 kilometres east from Gaspe.
They may be small dots in the vast Gulf of St. Lawrence, yet they were found, as brutally testified by over 400 wrecked ships that went aground on the shoals. It’s thought that the Vikings may have stopped there, certainly the Micmac Native Peoples who came to fish, and to hunt seal or walrus.
It was the explorer Jacques Cartier who was the first recorded European to view the islands in 1534. Cartier was struck by the sandy dunes and beaches on the islands, and the numerous links between the islands.
European French started to populate the islands in the late 1600’s. The population was increased by the addition of shipwreck survivors, and also an influx of Acadians who were fleeing from the British. They found life hard on the Madeleines and some abandoned their farms and fishing homes to establish new villages along the St. Lawrence River.
The many islands are not just sand. The Iles de la Madeleine are composed of rocky islands pushed up from the sea floor and have the shape of a gliding bird with a wingspan of 65 kilometres. Born as an equatorial basin seafloor, the area accumulated massive layers of salt, up to five kilometres thick. Then the entire basin began to drift north, all the while gaining thick layers of lava and sandstone rock.
Six causeways connect the several islands that look as if they belonged somewhere in the South Pacific Ocean. Green vegetation sweeps upward from the sea to colourful high sandstone cliffs. Sea facing cliffs are carved into a myriad of shapes with caves and sea stacks. Here and there are beautiful sandy beaches, some filling a small cove, and others spreading for long distances along gentle shores.
Gaily painted houses and shops dot the bays where there is good protection from the occasionally raging sea, making ideal locations for small fishing ports. The reddish sandstone cliffs create much of the beauty of the islands, and the white-pink beaches and the blue sea enhance their beauty. As you drive from one end of the island chain to the other the quiet beauty will strike you. Cattle stare nonchalantly as you pass by pastoral scenes backdropped by the rolling sea. It’s a place to relax, and forget the rest of the world.
Your ‘to do’ list can be very full. The caves attract a lot of divers, and waders, who like to explore these secret caves. It’s probably best to go with a local guide who can see you safely in and out of the caves.
Bicycling is a favourite sport and there are guided trails along the coast and sandy beaches. However, the Magdalen Islands are a well-known destination for wind sports. The breezes on these wind-swept islands are perfect for windsurfing as well as regular sailing. The sheltered beaches are just the answer for learners, while experts thrive just out a ways in the open.
After you’ve had some exhausting recreation, perhaps it’s time for a trip down to the beaches, and since there are 300 km of beaches, that shouldn’t be a problem. Sand that erodes from the reddish sandstone cliffs is deposited along the shores creating magnificent wide smooth beaches and also the sand dunes.
The islands are home to many artistic people. The blend of traditions created by the fusion of strangers from many places, including survivors of shipwrecks, means that you can find an eclectic mix of paintings, sculptures, and photography. The relaxed atmosphere allows you to visit with these artists, and they genuinely enjoy it.
You might not expect it in a place that seems so isolated, but it’s a place for amazing food. Visit a restaurant and sample their fresh caught scallops, herring, mussels, crab, and a traditional dish of lobster. It must be mentioned that their lobster is shipped to gourmets thousands of kilometres away, and welcomed because of its very fine flavor.
We found the Havre Sur Mer, Bed and Breakfast, to be exceptionally nice. The hostess did an impressive job, building on room after room as she accumulated sufficient funds to do so. The nice thing about visiting the islands is that there are many more places like this for you to enjoy.
For those who want to experience a remote area that has great amenities, good food, fine places to sleep, and fun places to go and visit, I don’t think you can do better than the Îles de la Madeleine. Try it soon.
If travelling from Souris, Prince Edward Island, the ferry takes about five hours. One-way fares: Car $94.50, and each adult over 60 years of age, $41.00. As fares change, you may wish to go to the following website which has several pages of information on the ferry crossing.
http://traversierctma.ca/en/general-information/the-crossing-and-how-to-reach-the-departure-point
If you’d like to explore the option of taking a cruise from Montreal to the islands check out:
http://www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/en/getting-to-the-islands/cruises/