The Pulse of the Heart of Dixie

Make Gulf State Park your snowbird destination to discover new experiences along Alabama’s famed coast.

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Words by Kathleen Walls

Alabama is a prime fall and winter retreat. It’s located west of Georgia, north of Florida, and south of Tennessee, making it easily accessible for snowbirds, especially when travelling southbound (or northbound) on the I-75.

The city of Gulf Shores in Southern Alabama is just west of Pensacola on the north end of the Gulf of Mexico. Although it may be cooler than its neighbouring states in the late summer, fall and winter, the climate is comfortable for outdoor recreation. Golfing, swimming, and fishing are all popular but it’s the long stretch of the sand beach, which spans 52 km (32 mi) along its coast, that’s one of the area’s biggest draws.

Gulf Shores has a variety of full-service RV parks that offer long and short-term stays. During my visit here last year, I stayed at Gulf State Park, which is more ‘resort’ than ‘campground’ with its number of services, amenities, and facilities.

The heated pool and splash pad is one of the park features but if this isn't your idea of water fun, the nearby Beach Pavilion on its grounds has access to more than 3 km (2 mi) of pristine sand and water. It has a seasonal concession stand, climate-controlled washrooms with showers, accessible ramps, and picnic tables.

I didn’t rent a paddleboard at the pavilion during my stay (even though lessons are available) as I prefer to swim in freshwater and enjoy kayaking. So, I made the short trip to Lake Shelby, which is within the park’s boundaries.

What makes Gulf State Park extra appealing is the 45 km (28 mi) of paved trails for hiking and biking to access nine different ecosystems. To learn all about the preserved landscape, I suggest visiting the Nature Center, located in the Gulf State Park Campground.

While the centre’s animal ambassadors include owls, turtles, alligators and more, there are educational presentations about manatees and constellations. Non-denominational Sunday services, early bird fitness classes, and even designated Snowbird Groups, allowing visitors to meet up with other RVers, are hosted in the park as well.

At 2,500  ha (6,150 ac), there’s a choice of 496 full-hookup sites, featuring paved pads, picnic tables and pedestal grill tops. The sites can accommodate larger RVs with slide-outs and from where you can access 11 air-conditioned bathhouses, plus tennis, pickleball, horseshoe, and volleyball courts.

Although the grills were handy on some nights, I didn’t have to leave the park to dine out. Several restaurants include the Woodside Restaurant, which is open from breakfast through to dinner and serves casual fare.

There’s also the Perch Bar and Terrace in The Park Lodge. It specializes in tapa-style options and where you can enjoy a cool beverage during a classic Gulf sunset. Another outdoor dining option is Foodcraft for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and has a good selection of local craft beer, wine, and an assortment of cocktails.

I enjoyed The Dragonfly where I would often grab a quick drink or burger and sit by the pool. For evening entertainment, the ByWater Beachside Beach Bar & Grill at the Pier hosts weekly karaoke nights.

Eventually, I tore myself away from the park’s facilities to experience the other attractions in Gulf Shores. With several more dining choices, offering a variety of classic southern cuisine and locally-inspired menu items, the attractions are just as impressive.

I chose to go on a dolphin cruise with the charter company, Sail Wild Hearts. They took a group and I sailing on the Gulf where we spotted a few dolphins and admired views of the shore as we sailed out.

Gulf Shores Zoo is another attraction worth visiting. It’s known as ‘The Little Zoo That Could’ after all of the efforts that were made of relocating the animals to a safe haven just before devastating Hurricane Ivan hit the state in 2004. It has recently moved to higher ground and provides environmentally friendly habitats for all the species of animals.

The zoo features what is called Animal Adventure ‘encounters’ where I observed a variety of species including sloths, tortoises, lemurs and even kangaroos. In all, the facility is home to 300 different animals with 22 being on the Endangered Species List, including the Bengal tiger, Rajah, Rani, and Omar. Petting zoos and educational stage shows are also available.

Visiting the past of Gulf Shores is just as interesting. Fort Morgan - also known as Fort Bowyer - will attract history buffs. Located about 30 minutes from the park, Fort Morgan consists of a military museum, concrete artillery batteries that were constructed between 1895 and 1904, and the exteriors of military buildings that date from 1898 to 1910.

This is the first fort that was constructed after the forming of the newly independent United States in 1813 to guard against a possible British attack. They eventually did invade twice during the War of 1812. The fort also saw action during the Civil War, served as a training base during WW I and provided a coastal defence against German submarines that prowled the Gulf in WW II.

While the fort commemorates the region’s rich military history, The Wharf in Orange Beach celebrates the coastal lifestyle of the present day. Shopping, dining, and entertainment are popular. Take in a concert at the 10,000-seat Wharf Amphitheatre, check out the series of shops, or stop at a cafe - there’s something for everyone here with every visit.

If you have dreams of becoming a celebrity chef or just want to enhance your culinary skills, the cooking classes hosted by the chefs at the Cobalt Restaurant are a good start. I took one with sous chef Nick Norman who demonstrated how to prepare the popular Lebanese dish, Shish Tawook. The classes are held every Tuesday and for updates or to enroll, visit www.cobaltrestaurant.net.

At day’s end, Gulf State Park is a welcome retreat after exploring this coastal community. Feeling the cool evening breeze at a secluded campground, sipping a refreshing beverage, and recalling new experiences is all part of the enjoyment in this region of the Heart of Dixie.

For more information visit www.gulfshores.com