Dawn Scmidt
Just one of the visitor centres to find information about the attractions and trails in the area.
Story by Dennis Begin
When people think of Saskatchewan, the term ‘flat’ comes to mind. A lot of areas span as far as the eye can see, but visitors are sometimes surprised to learn that the province has countless lakes, forests, rolling terrain and scenic parklands.
Grasslands National Park is Canada’s only National Park that was established to represent the mixed grass prairie – one of the most endangered ecosystems in Canada. I recently visited this park and the East Block’s Rock Creek Badlands share a striking resemblance to the Badlands of Brooks and Drumheller in Alberta, and the Bunchgrass Hills of Kamloops in British Columbia.
There are 37 National Parks in Canada with only two in Saskatchewan. The other one is Prince Albert National Park. Grasslands grow among rolling hills in arid climates with few or no trees and little precipitation.
Dennis Begin
The trail at 70 Mile Butte. This was a landmark along the NWMP route between Wood Mountain and Eastend.
The Village of Val Marie
Val Marie and the area was home to a range of people, including First Nations, Métis, ranchers and then homesteaders. The semi-arid rangeland is characterized by rolling hills, a river valley, coulees, badlands and wide-open spaces punctuated by ranch houses, small villages and winding roads.
The village was incorporated in 1926 and has a population of approximately 130, while the Rural Municipality has a population of about 400.
One of the most famous persons from Val Marie is NHL Hockey icon, Bryan Trottier. Bryan won seven Stanley Cups in his career, four playing with the New York Islanders, two playing with the Pittsburgh Penguins, and one coaching the Colorado Avalanche.
Despite its small population, Val Marie is considered to be the ‘Gateway to the Grasslands.’ Visitors interested in going to the region can learn about the area at the Grasslands National Park Visitor Centre or the Prairie Wind and Silver Sage Museum & Gift store.
Dawn Scmidt
The Municipal Heritage grain elevator in Val Marie was built in 1927 and is located at the top of Centre St.
Grasslands’ RV Park and Accommodations
Val Marie Campground is just one option for RVers and is a municipal RV park. It’s described by management as ‘cozy and maintained.’ There are only 13 sites but each one has power and access to shower/washroom facilities, a picnic area, and dump station. A Spray Park is also available for kids.
More RV camping choices are at the Rock Creek Campground in the East Block and The Frenchman Valley Campground in the West Block. Some alternate accommodations include The Crossing Resort, known for its comfortable amenities and beautiful views, and my choice, the Convent Inn in Val Marie.
This former Catholic convent was converted into a B&B. Over the decades, it served as a chapel, high school, and a residency for nuns. I enjoyed strolling the halls, seeing the photos, and reading the wisdom on the chalkboards. A hearty breakfast was included and served by its present owners, the Ducan family.
Discover the West and East Block
Grasslands is divided into two areas, the East Block and West Block. The West Block is a ‘sea of grasslands’ and home to the bison herd and other rare prairie wildlife. The East Block features striking viewscapes of the badlands and a rich paleontological history.
There’s a distance of approximately 160 km (about 99 mi) between the two blocks and the daily entrance fee is $6.50 per adult or $13.50 for a family/group. More information about fees and locations can be found at parks.canada.ca/pn-np/sk/grasslands/visit/tarifs-fees.
Dennis Begin
While there are RV parks in the area, alternative accommodation in Val Marie is the Convent Inn, a former Catholic convent that is now a unique B&B.
Visitors commonly enjoy the 70 Mile Butte Trail, a 2 km (1.2 mi) trail that branches from the 2 km (1.2 mi) Eagle Butte Trail, with amazing views of the Frenchman River Valley and surrounding farmlands. It’s one of the highest viewpoints in the West Block and was a landmark along the route taken by the North West Mounted Police (NWMP) from Wood Mountain to Eastend, SK.
In 1874, the NWMP made their ‘March West,’ part of which followed the nearby Red Coat Trail. Their objective was to end the whisky trade around Fort Whoop-Up (near Lethbridge, AB).
The force patrolled 112 km (70 mi) east to Wood Mountain and 113 km (70 mi) west to Eastend. Commemorative plaques retrace their journey including in Fir Mountain and Val Marie.
The West Block greets visitors with the chirping sounds of the Black-tailed prairie dogs. In addition to its neighbouring lands, this is one of the few places in Canada where they exist in their natural habitat.
A popular point of interest is the Walt Larson Homestead. The Larson Family ranched here from 1921 to 1984. Another early homesteader was Will James, an artist, novelist and cowboy. Walt Larson and Will James were cowboys that rode for the 76 Ranch..
For a change in scenery, explore the Ecotour Scenic Drive. This is a 20 km (12 mi) driving tour through the Frenchman River Valley where you can admire scenic landscapes, tipi rings, wildlife such as bison and prairie dogs, and learn all about nature in the area.
Dennis Begin
The Black Tailed Prairie Dog. The West Block is one of the few places in Canada where they exist in their natural habitat.
To further explore the park, the Back Country Loop is approximately a 60 km dirt road through a more remote area of the park. According to Tourism Saskatchewan, it’s ‘the park’s most rugged experience.’ The route leads up to an elevation of more than 1,000 m (3,300 ft) that can be enjoyed from the Red Chairs at the Borderlands Lookout.
There is plenty of wildlife including pronghorns, coyotes and the occasional rattlesnake. Birding is very popular throughout Grasslands National Park with Burrowing owls, Swainson’s Hawks and Western Meadowlarks.
East Block
The Badlands consist of rolling hills, coloured buttes, treed coulees and hiking trails. It is well suited for wilderness camping. The Badlands Parkway is one of the highlights of the East Block. The 11 km (6 mi) single-lane route has six viewpoints with interpretive signs. A popular yet challenging hiking trail is The Valley of 1,000 Devils.
However, there’s more to Grasslands and the surrounding area than the West and East blocks. In 1876, fearing retribution for the killing of Lt. Colonel George Custer and the Battle of the Little Big Horn, the Lakota Sioux crossed the border into Canada and camped on five different waterways in what now is the park: Breed Creek, the Frenchman River, Medicine Lodge, Horse Creek and Rock Creek. In 1881, starvation forced most of the Lakota to return to the United States.
Grasslands National Park provides a sense of wonder and solitude. Grid and gravel roads seem to run forever, and civilization is evident with an occasional ranch and farm. As for the landscape, it appears not to have been affected by time.
For more information visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/sk/grasslands