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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Nisga'a totem poles
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Nisga'a welcoming sign
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Moss and lichen on lava blocks
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Nisga'a wall painting in Visitor Centre
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Nisga's hat weaving at Visitor Centre
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Lava flow crack
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Blocks in lava field
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Basalt showing old gas bubbles
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Example of a tree mold
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James.Stoness
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park - BC
Rapids along highway
Story & photos by James Stoness
It is not widely known that British Columbia has mountains that are prone to volcanic eruptions. Some of these have been dormant for a very long time, and others have had dramatic results on people in the not so distant past.
North of Terrace in the Nass River Valley, only two hundred and fifty years ago, a volcanic eruption spewed lava down its slopes into the valley, which then flowed northward to burn and bury two villages of the Nisga’a First Nations tribe. The gases and the lava tragically killed over 2,000 native people. The flow buried some of the original channel of the Nass River and pushed the entire river northward across the valley to its present location.
Aside from great scenery and tragic history, this area is a geologically intriguing place to visit. There is also a one hundred and seventy nine square kilometre park that is a living memorial to those who died. The Provincial Government and the First Nations manage it in a team effort.
The colourful Visitor Centre often has a local artist on duty when the park is open in the summer, who will explain the collection of native artefacts, and show you the maps of the lava flow’s path of destruction. The maps show that the park encompasses an oddly irregular area, mostly the area of the lava flow.
The approach to the park for many visitors will be north from the Town of Terrace, a good highway, twisty in places, and very scenic. When you stop to take a picture down across the blue waters of Lava Lake, give some consideration to the fact that this lake was formed because lava blocked the river downstream from this point and the water flooded back to form the lake. Downstream, beyond the lava dam, you may find places where the river vanishes under the broken surface of the lava flow.
The point of eruption is north and east in the mountains. A guided tour will take you on a trail to the lava cone. The trail is moderately difficult, so wear good hiking boots for the four-hour hike, which takes you three kilometres over the lava to the cone.
As the lava came into the Nass River Valley it spread outward leaving the valley floor in a turmoil of lava blocks, fissures and caves. All along the highway you now see the lava. The basalt lava flow is extensive and very interesting to examine as you follow trails across the surface. Normally you would find basalt lava to be very black. In the lava field it has a surface coating of lichens and mosses and looks somewhat tan, or yellow. Do not leave the trail as it destroys this new vegetation, which is slowly turning the basalt into soil.
You’ll notice how the surface is often buckled, and heaved up in blocks. This is caused by the liquid lava surface solidifying or freezing, while underneath, the lava continued to flow quickly. This is similar to a stream with ice flows. Sometimes the flow would push upward, and blocks of basalt would float and jam causing even more buckling of the crust. You will see these areas and realize the tremendous force and pressure required to redesign the landscape in this manner. If you follow Tree Mould Trail you will see several examples of this, and you will see a hole through the rock formed when lava flowed around a live tree and solidified. Later on the tree rotted leaving the round tunnel through the rock. Some blocks whose edges you can see, show multiple small holes. These were gas bubbles that were trapped in the cooling lava.
There are only 16 campsites available near the Visitor Centre offering a relaxing place to rest, and close enough to enjoy what the park has to offer. However, they could be filled by the time you get there. You will enjoy the drive better without a large rig. You can pay more attention to the scenery, and stop for pictures in the smaller overlooks. Visit the local villages outside the park. There are several totem poles proudly proclaiming their silent messages to the world.
I suggest camping near Terrace. The Ferry Island Campground with 103 campsites is 3.5 km from Terrace. We chose the campground at Lakelse Lake Provincial Park, which is farther south. We enjoyed being among the giant trees of the old growth forest and the feeling of solitude they conveyed. The campsites were back-in, and spaced with trees between so we had a sense of privacy.
The drive of about 100 km from Terrace to the lava beds is very scenic with great views of the mountains. Along the way there are also attractive rapids and waterfalls. Take time to go and visit the site of Canada’s last volcanic eruption.
Lava Cone Tours:
- Available from June 28th thru to Sept 1st.
- Tour rates: $30 adults, $25 students and seniors, $20/student groups.
- Dates: Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
- Time: Leaving from Visitor Info Centre at 10 am.
For more than four decades James Stoness has travelled the roads of North America, photographing and writing about what he has seen. His travel articles and beautiful pictures have been published in several magazines and newspapers. He is also the author of five western novels and three Scenic Travel books all available as ebooks. Visit his website at: www.stonesstravelguides.com