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Historic Fort Assiniboine - Alberta
Camping by the Athabaska River
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Historic Fort Assiniboine - Alberta
Boating on the Athabaska River
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Historic Fort Assiniboine - Alberta
Largest wheel and pick goes to the dogs
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Historic Fort Assiniboine - Alberta
Fort Assiniboine museum
Story & photos by Barb Rees
Jet boat tours of the Athabaska River, camping, fishing and fur trader’s history all await you in Fort Assiniboine. Welcome to Woodlands County, 170 km northwest of Edmonton. Although Whitecourt is the largest of the four communities here, we bypassed it on our trip in favour of the tiny hamlet of Fort Assiniboine, population 331.
This bit of charm lies tucked in beside the Athabaska River, the 14th longest river in Canada. The river starts at the Athabaska Glacier in the Columbia Icefield at an elevation of 1520 m (4987 ft), draining into the Peace River, and from there empties into the Arctic Ocean via the mighty Mackenzie.
Fort Assiniboine, the second oldest fort in Alberta was built by Ronald McDonald in 1823…no he didn’t make hamburgers. He named the fort after the local Assiniboine or Stoney Indians whose name originated from their use of hot stones in water to boil food. The North West Company called it the Athabaska House. The area had already been part of the fur trade for 150 years and the Hudson Bay Company operated there until 1875.
Outside stands the world’s largest wagon wheel and pick, commemorated on July 20, 2015 as part of the Alberta’s centennial year celebrations, and honours the early fur traders and settlers. That would be some wagon with a 7.3 m (24 ft) diameter wheel and Paul Bunyan to pick up the 6 m (20 ft) pick.
Alongside the Friendship Club and Museum, two large granite slabs are dedicated to the “The Barrhead MS Trail Ride” and “The MS Trail Ride. The Ride of Hope.” It’s an annual ride to raise awareness about Multiple Sclerosis. Carl Huff, author of the poem on the slab said in closing, “So let’s keep coming back till in victory the battle ends.”
The museum and several out buildings holding local artifacts were opened in 1980. Curator Dawn Klemp gave us a thorough tour but the real story began when she recommended going for ice cream at the newly opened Marty’s Espresso Café. The rustic frontage covered in flowers welcomed us with sayings such as “Trust your heart. It’s the only compass you need.”
We got much more than ice cream. We met the owner, Marty, with her effervescent attitude and ready smile. When I told her I was writing a book, she wanted to talk to me.
Outside under the flower baskets she told her story. Marty sold her restaurant in Dawson Creek, got married and moved here. She moved with the dream to start a café that would be a safe place for the community, especially the youth.
We talked of my first book Lessons From the Potholes of Life and the metaphor of finding diamonds in the bottom of potholes. She grabbed my arm and pointed up. There was a diamond on the name. She tells youth about diamonds being just coal under pressure. “Can I gift you a jet boat tour of the river?” She asked with shining eyes. I gladly accepted and she called her friends at Woodlands RV Park and River Marina. They offered us the last campsite on the river plus a free river tour. www.woodlandsrv.ca
At the campground we met Allan O’Brien the owner and Nick the manager. Nick led us to a dry camping spot by the Athabaska River where the air was saturated with peace and wild beauty. I was overwhelmed with the magic, and so were the dogs that tore around in glee.
After dinner, Allan took us on his specially designed cargo jet boat that draws only 10-15 cm (4-6”) of water and can carry an ATV up front. He bought the property in 2002 and started digging out the marina in 2004. He had a dream that started with a forest and a puddle, which was transformed into a campground and marina. He and his sons built a berm to keep the river out when it floods in the spring. They have 59 seasonal campsites plus five for drop-ins.
What a thrill to be roaring over this mighty river. Thanks to Marty and Allan’s generosity we were enjoying the wind in our hair as he swerved around rapids and logs. We drifted with the current at the base of a cliff that has eroded 45 m (150 ft) since Allan came here. Jackfish, pickerel, whitefish, gold-eye and grayling are fished in the river. For three years they’ve held a poker run on the river raising $70,000 for the Heart and Stroke Foundation.
A huge golden eagle perched on a branch overhanging the water. As the boat drifted under it I lay on my back, pointed my camera up taking amazing shots of him looking down at me. He was considerably bigger than the bald eagles we have on the coast.
Outside the town is the Freeman River RV Park. Staying on Highway #33 North would take you to Swan Hills, a wilderness playground.
We ended our day sitting around the fire, special mochas in hand and banana boats roasting on the fire, while the river continued on its journey to the sea. Rose Kennedy said, “Life isn’t a matter of milestones but of moments.” Fort Assiniboine is a peaceful place for travellers to make special moments.
Barb Rees is a speaker and author of five RV Canada books from the working holidays her and husband Dave have made from coast to coast to coast of Canada. She presents at the RV Lifestyle Seminars in Kelowna annually. Her books can be found at: www.write2dream.com