Exploring the Wild Side of Quebec

A week-long trip to Côte-Nord was a true adventure for this solo traveller.

December 29, 2021

12:00 AM

Mathieu Godin

Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay.

Words and photos by Mathieu Godin Instagram @math_godin

From hiking one of the longest fjords in the world, setting up camp beside Quebec’s deepest lake, and observing a group of six Humpback whales, Côte-Nord is a great destination for RVers looking to get away from it all and explore vast open spaces.

While many RVers are still enjoying the warm, southern weather, it’s not too early to plan your next RV trip in the spring. What I realized when I was planning a trip to Côte-Nord - located along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River estuary and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence in Quebec - was a 4WD vehicle wasn’t necessary to visit this wild area.

Mathieu Godin

The convenient conversion of the Mékinac.

As an overland enthusiast, I’m always looking for new off-the-beaten-path destinations, off-road trails, and off-grid camping spots. For my trip to the Côte-Nord, my objectives were mainly to drive along the region’s popular Whale Route, go sea kayaking, and take a Zodiac tour to observe some humpbacks. This time, I decided to do something different and experience the ‘van life’ for the first time.

Looking at my RV rental options, I first considered a Class B, most notably a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter unit as I visualized myself on the roof rack taking pictures of the wild scenery. However, I ended up renting the Mékinac model from Québec Campervans, which was a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan Van - van conversion. Rigged with a great sleeping configuration and a functional galley, the van suited my needs perfectly. Plus I would be travelling solo and didn’t require much room. I would also benefit from the fuel savings and it's easier manoeuvrability.

Mathieu Godin

All the organized space for gear and essentials.

Québec Campervans offer many rental options from their office in Montreal. As a Quebec resident and travelling in the off-season, I benefited from their ‘Explore Quebec’ package and received 35 percent savings since I opted for their ‘camping and activity deal.’ This was all done in collaboration with Club Aventure (www.clubadventure.com). All I had to do was to tell them my travel plans and they took care of the reservations as part of my personalized package.

Having been to Gaspesie twice before, I wanted to experience the North Shore of the St. Lawrence. I decided to take a small detour toward the Saguenay area to visit the Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay and then travel south on Route 138 to Tadoussac, which is considered the official start of a road trip to Côte-Nord. With just a week to explore the area, I only planned to go as far as Port-Cartier.

While there’s a lot more to see, Côte-Nord is a fantastic destination and even if you have visited Gaspesie and feel it might be a similar experience - it definitely isn’t.

Mathieu Godin

Sea kayaking with Fjord en Kayak.

Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay

Home to the world’s longest fjord at this low latitude, you’ll appreciate this park if you like large open spaces. Hiking the 7.6 km (4.7 mi) (round trip) on the de la Statue trail offered many jaw-dropping views of the fjord and provided a sense of remoteness. When I admired the fjord from the lookout, it didn’t feel like I was in the province of Quebec. This change of scenery was exactly what I wanted to experience. This trail is considered intermediate to difficult and takes about three to four hours to complete.

Another activity I recommend doing in the area is sea kayaking with a guided group. This was my first-time sea kayaking and the short training session before hitting the open water gave me the confidence I needed for the three-hour that I would solo. Soloing means that you will have to paddle a bit more to keep up with the double kayaks as two people paddle in tandem. According to our guide, capsizing is more common among solo kayakers and although I’m happy to report I didn’t flip, another ‘soloist’ almost did.

Mathieu Godin

Whale watching with Essipit Vacations.

Réserve faunique de Port-Cartier-Sept-Îles

After seeing the Fjord-du-Saguenay, I learned that my campground was near Lake Walker, which is Quebec’s deepest lake at 280 metres (919 feet). Spending a night above the 50th parallel was a first for me and it was also the coldest night during the trip. Nevertheless, I plan to visit here again when I return to reach Kegaska as there were a few hiking trails that I didn’t chance to explore.

Spending Time with the Whales

Côte-Nord is considered one of the best regions in the world to observe whales. There are many tours available but the Zodiac tour I took in the Bergeronnes area (recommended to me by another solo traveller) was fascinating. I booked the tour with Essipit Vacations and being such a great experience, I went twice. On the second outing, there was a group of six humpback whales feeding about 3 m (10 ft) from the boat.

Mathieu Godin

One of the many Humpbacks I observed in the area.

Travelling with the Mékinac Conversion Van

Spending a week with the Mékinac throughout Côte-Nord was a great experience. A van conversion is an ideal alternative over a Class B, especially for solo trips. The sleeping layout couldn’t have been more comfortable and the bed layout was easy to set up. On colder, windy days, I stayed cozy in its interior with a good book and during warmer temperatures, the side screen could let some fresh air in while keeping the bugs out. Cooking and preparing meals with the kitchen setup was also convenient and served me well during the whole trip.

This won’t be my last time visiting Côte-Nord, and it also won’t be my last time going on a solo adventure in a van conversion unit. It provided a great way to travel while the beautiful, unique scenery and outdoor activities in this region were second to none.