Mathieu Godin
Martin Head
Words and Photos by Mathieu Godin
Instagram @math_godin
Underrated and uncrowded, the province of New Brunswick is a great destination for RVers visiting eastern Canada. Don’t just drive through, get off the highway to explore its area for a few days and see what it has to offer.
The province of New Brunswick is often seen by travelers as only a connecting province to P.E.I. or Nova Scotia–I say that people are missing out on something. There is a lot to explore if you get off the highway. I’m from the north-east region of New Brunswick, however, I had never really explored its southern part, until last fall. Here is what you don’t want to miss in the southern region:
Hopewell Rocks
Stopping by to visit the Hopewell Rocks is simply a must. Shaped by years of erosion created by the highest tides in the world, these rock formations are an impressive sighting. Some of the formations have taken on a funny form and look like bubblehead figures. In fact, some of them even have names: E.T, Mother-in-Law, and the Lover's Arch, just to name a few. I swear, I can see a face in most of those formations. I visited outside the peak tourism season, and it was quite busy, so I could only imagine what it would be like during the peak season. If you can, visit the area at high tide and then again at low tide to get a different perspective. I visited at low tide only, but I was able to walk on the ocean floor around the rock formations.
The Hopewell Rocks were created millions of years ago; they were originally part of a massive mountain range–older than the Appalachians and bigger than the Canadian Rockies. The rocks continue to erode today, thanks to the winds and the tides that can reach up to 14 m (46 ft) in the area– as high as a 4-story building.
Mathieu Godin
The Hopewell Rocks
Fundy National Park
New Brunswick’s first national park is a popular destination in the southern region, but when I visited in September, I almost had it to myself. With over 100 km (62 mi) of hiking trails, you will have plenty of choices. I chose to explore Matthew's Head trail, and I’m not about to forget the view from the shore. Rated as moderate in terms of difficulty, Matthew's Head's 4.5 km (2.8 mi) loop takes about two hours to complete. The Dickson Falls loop trail is another of the park's favourite trails. Rated as easy, it’s only 1.5 km (1 mi) long and will get you to one of the park's most-photographed waterfalls.
Mathieu Godin
Matthews Head Trail, Fundy National Park
Saint Martins’ sea caves
The sea caves are a popular attraction in the small coastal village of Saint Martins. Consult the tidal charts to find out when low tide is and go explore the sea caves on foot. Then, go on a sea kayaking trip at high tide with Red Rock Adventure to explore the caves from a different angle. With 160-billion tons of water rushing in and out of the Bay of Fundy twice a day, the caves are continually shaped by the sea.
Mathieu Godin
Saint Martins’ sea caves
Fundy Trail Parkway
Starting in the Saint Martins' area, the Fundy Trail Parkway is a bit similar to Cape Breton Island’s Cabot Trail. Drive the 30 km (19 mi) roundtrip along the Fundy’s bay coast and stop occasionally to take in the view at some of the 21 lookouts. The Parkway also has many scenic hiking trails to choose from. I hiked the trail that leads to its 284 m (932 ft) suspension bridge over the Big Salmon River by the Interpretive Centre.
Mathieu Godin
Fundy Trail Parkway
Ministers Island
How does driving on the ocean floor to an island sound to you? Or perhaps I should say a part-time island. Ministers Island, near Saint Andrews, is a popular destination in the area where you can visit the summer estate of Sir William Van Horne. He was the president and driving force behind the Canadian Pacific Railway. The island is accessible by driving or walking over the ocean floor about 1 km (0.6 mi) at low tide. At high tide, the bar that connects the island to the mainland is under about 4.3 m (14 ft) of water.
Mathieu Godin
Driving on the ocean floor to Ministers Island
Campobello Island
Campobello Island can be accessed by taking a toll-free ferry in Letete to Deer Island, and then another ferry from Deer Island to Campobello Island (this one is privately owned and runs during the summer months only). Another option is to crossover on a bridge from the U.S. side. Once on the island, go explore the summer home of once U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt at Roosevelt Campobello International Park. At low tide, go visit the province’s second-oldest lighthouse–Head Harbour Lighthouse.
Grand Manan Island
A one-hour and a half ferry ride from Black Harbour will get you to Grand Manan Island. On a clear day, as you get closer, you will first see the rugged cliffs on the north-east of the island and then the island’s iconic lighthouse–the Swallowtail Lighthouse.
As the biggest island of the Fundy's isles, the rugged Grand Manan Island is the place to go for some peace and quiet. If you want to get to a place even more remote, a free 20-minute ferry from the island will get you to White Head Island. White Head is a smaller island with only about 180 residents. There is no camping accommodation on the island but it's still worth a visit just for its remoteness.
Visit the southernmost point of Grand Manan to experience the sensation of being on the edge of the world. It’s also a great spot to watch the sunset.
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Mathieu Godin
Swallowtail Lighthouse, Grand Manan Island
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Mathieu Godin
Exploring White Head Island
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Mathieu Godin
Ferry between Grand Manan Island and White Head Island
Martin Head (off-grid)
Martin Head is located just about 10 km (6.2 mi) west of Fundy National Park. It's a popular camping destination for the locals and it's situated on Crown land (free camping). It's accessible through a network of secondary roads, snowmobile, and ATV trails. The last few kilometers are a bit rough, so I'd recommend a 4WD vehicle. You will be up close and personal with the highest tides in the world, so make sure to set up camp high enough on the beach. There is some kind of an island that emerges at the end of a gravel bar from the beach; one of its cliffs looks like a face–it’s Martin Head.
Mathieu Godin
The southernmost point of Grand Manan Island
Trip planning information
For the must-see in the area, get your free Travel Guide.
https://www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca
Navigation
Get yourself a Backroad Mapbook (hard copy & digital) covering New Brunswick & P.E.I.
https://www.backroadmapbooks.com
Where to stay
Provincial Parks
There is a total of nine provincial parks in New Brunswick. Stay at Herring Cove provincial park on Campobello Island and at the Anchorage provincial park on Grand Manan Island.
https://parcsnbparks.ca/Home.aspx
National Parks
There are two national parks in New Brunswick: Kouchibouguac and Fundy. Do you want to try something a little different? Stay in an oTENTik, a Yurt or one of the new Ôasis for a night or two.
Local Park
Stay at the North Head Campground & Park on Grand Manan Island. This local campground is the perfect basecamp to explore the area. Make sure to hike the short Hole in the Wall trail to visit the island’s famous rock arch.
Algonquin Resort, Saint Andrews
Leave the RV behind and spend a night at Saint Andrews’ iconic Algonquin Resort. It was extensively renovated in 2014. It’s the place to stay for an immersion in Saint Andrews’ history– it was originally built in 1889.
https://www.algonquinresort.com
Where to eat
The Inn at Whale Cove Cottages, Grand Manan Island
For one of the best culinary experience in New Brunswick, you must have a meal there. You can also enjoy a comfortable stay at the Inn as well.
Tides Restaurant, Alma
The Tides Restaurant in the Parkland Village Inn at Alma is a great spot to dine and it is located just by the local wharf.
https://www.parklandvillageinn.com
Kelly’s Bake Shop, Alma
Get yourself one of the world-famous sticky buns; it’s a must while you are in the area.
https://www.facebook.com/homeofthestickybun/
The Caves Restaurant, Saint Martins
Try a bowl of their delicious seafood chowder after exploring the local sea caves.