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S01 E05 - Cool Communities in the Kootenays
Kootenay Rockies Tourism Mitch Winton
Fernie’s picture-postcard downtown district.
Words by Steve Fennell
British Columbia is a province to visit at your own pace. It’s impossible to explore every community in one season but an exciting start is Southeastern, BC, more specifically the Kootenays.
Home to towering mountain ranges, including the Western Rockies, Selkirks, Monashees, and Purcells, this region provides an RV trip unique to Canada. Mountains roll continuously in the distance, lakes lay at the base of rugged hillsides while streams and rivers flow seamlessly through it all. To start your adventure in the Kootenays, you can visit all of these areas in one big trip or really take your time and enjoy everything they have to offer.
Fernie
A classic mountain town that’s known for its powder skiing in the winter and variety of activities in the summer, Fernie is located along BC Hwy 3 and less than an hour from the Alberta border.
Of the many campgrounds, the Mount Fernie Provincial Campground in the provincial park of the same name is a good choice. Located in the southern Kootenay mountain range, it spans 105 ha (259 ac) and is where you can spend a few days enjoying hiking and biking trails or exploring Lizard Creek, which winds through the park before creating a waterfall into the Elk River.
Destination BC Kari Medig
Travelling along BC Hwy 3 next to the Kootenay River. Scenic drives can be found throughout the region.
The park has 43 accessible sites and half of them can be reserved in advance. The remainder is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The park is not equipped with RV hookups but it does have potable water, washrooms and shower facilities.
If you prefer a little more services, the Fernie RV Resort has 144 sites that include water, sewer, and 30/50-amp power (except for Econo sites). The latest news is the resort added 30 full-service sites next to the Elk River. They are also 50 percent larger than other locations in the park.
Once you’re ready to explore the area, the Elk River, which flows through the Elk Valley and consists of mountain landscapes, is popular for fly fishing, kayaking, canoeing and paddle boarding. Local guides are available to ensure you get the most out of your time or take any one of the popular hiking trails to find your own adventure. They range from easy to advanced and the Old Growth Trail, Fairy Creek Falls and Mountain Lakes Trail are local favourites.
Looking for a unique dining experience or a quick bite? In true BC style, you’ll find places with names like Big Bang Bagels and the Chopstick Truck that serve casual fare while Nevados has a funky atmosphere with unique tapas options.
Destination BC Kari Medig
Touring BC Hwy 3 outside of Cranbrook.
Cranbrook
Approximately 100 km (62 mi) west of Fernie, at the junction of BC Hwy 3 and BC Hwy 93/95, Cranbrook was once a rail town when the Crowsnest Railroad was established in the area in 1898. Its rail history is showcased in the Museum of Rail Travel at the Cranbrook History Centre, which has an interesting display of classic trains.
Exhibits include the Strathcona Car, which has hosted such esteemed guests including Queen Elizabeth II and Sir Winston Churchill. More history can be discovered in nearby Fort Steele Heritage Town, a living history museum with theatre performances, live demonstrations and reenactments.
A good way to see the area is by driving to some scenic waterfalls. For instance, motor north on BC Hwy 95A to Perry Creek Falls. The hike in is 2.6 km (1.6 mi) (roundtrip) and you’re rewarded with scenic views of water rushing over smooth rocks and bright-coloured moss. Other nice drives and scenes of thundering water include Meachen Creek and Cherry Creek falls, which are an hour outside of Cranbrook.
When you want a break, visit Baker Street in Cranbook’s downtown district or relax at a local RV site as there are a variety of campgrounds with full services.
Destination BC Dave Heath
Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery in Creston.
Creston Valley
A little more than an hour southwest of Cranbrook via BC Hwy 95 and BC Hwy 3, Creston Valley prides itself as a prime, fertile agricultural region. What this means is you’ll be treated with local flavours from its fruit orchards, wineries, restaurants, and the popular Creston Valley Farmers Market (for hours of operation be sure to visit www.crestonvalleyfoodactioncoalition.ca/farmersmarket)
The flavours of the region just get better at the handful of local wineries. Enjoy a tasting flight and guided tour or even purchase a new favourite. All of the wineries have an excellent selection of many vintages including Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and more.
Craft beer is popular too and the selections from the Wild North Brewing Company and Columbia Brewery will certainly quench your thirst. When you want something a little stronger at happy hour check out the creations from master distillers Pat Meerholz and his wife Jeanette at Wynndel Craft Distilleries. The husband-wife team takes advantage of the local fruits to produce quality schnapps, brandies, liqueurs and gins.
If you plan to stay a few days, Creston is near two provincial parks, Lockhart Beach and Yahk. While you can cool off in the refreshing waters of Kootenay Lake at Lockhart, Yahk is located on the edge of the Moyie River, which is popular among anglers of all ages. Other choices include Mountain Park Resort, Scotties RV Park and Campground, Pair-A-Dice RV Park and Campground, and Arrow Mountain RV Park.
To round out your visit, take a hike on Cranbrook’s network of trails, paddle on the Kootenay River and visit the Creston Museum or the Kootenay Columbia Discovery Centre Society at the Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area. Since the area is also home to many local artisans and boutiques, chances are likely you’ll find something special to remember your trip here.
Evan-Fitzer
Cast or fly fish, the chances of success are high in this region.
Rossland and Castlegar
Even though many natural attractions can be discovered by paddling, hiking, and biking in the Rossland area, a great first impression of this community is its downtown district.
One of the main attractions is Columbia Ave. It spans only four or five blocks but the eclectic mix of shops provides the chance to find something unique. Shopping here is an experience and a nice departure from the ‘off-the rack’ items at big box stores. Locally-owned clothiers, galleries, sports retailers, and cafes all line this main street while dining choices range from casual to formal.
As of June 2022, the Rossland Community Farmers Market will be open from 2 pm to 5:30 pm every Wednesday at the bottom of Queen St. This market will operate throughout the summer until the Harvest Festival in September. With fresh produce, meats, homemade condiments and sauces, plan a BBQ dinner at your RV later in the day. You’ll be sure to cast fresh, rich aromas from your grill.
A popular area to stay for a night or two is Nancy Greene Provincial Park at the intersection of BC Hwy 3 B and BC Hwy 3. It’s ideally situated under the rolling Monashee Mountains and the sub-alpine lake is perfect for fishing, swimming, and kayaking. Powerboats are not permitted. Although the park has only 10 sites (with limited services) that are available on a first-come, first-served basis, more choices are in Rossland.
After your visit, you’ll want to drive to nearby Castlegar, located about 40 km (25 mi) north of Rossland on BC Hwy 22 and 30 km (19 mi) east of Nancy Greene Provincial Park via BC Hwy 3.
Castlegar will be of special interest to hardcore anglers. The Columbia River flows right through town and you don’t have to travel far to get some action. Fly fishing is common for rainbows and walleye or visit the Arrow Lakes where you can troll or cast for dolly varden, kokanee, bull trout and walleye.
Mark Bosky
Many types of watersports can be enjoyed with the backdrop of a beautiful mountain range.
Nelson
What’s special about Nelson, other than being an active outdoor lifestyle community and situated at the base of the Selkirks, is it has more than 350 restored heritage buildings that provide a unique culture and warm atmosphere.
The self-guided tour of these buildings includes observing architecture from the Victorian era and the 1920s or take the Mural Tour (also the self-guided) that showcases the works of artists from around the world. Most are painted during the annual Nelson International Mural Festival hosted by the Nelson & District Arts Council. This year the event will be held August 12-14, 2022 throughout the community.
Nelson also has a vibrant arts culture and the Touchstones Nelson Museum of Art and History is worth visiting. In addition to learning about the area’s history, it showcases changing art exhibitions ranging from contemporary to pop culture.
Another popular summer attraction is Marketfest where local artisans (among other vendors) showcase hand-made jewelry, clothing, and pottery. You may also want to check out The Nelson ArtWalk, which displays the works of artists, the latest collections from local galleries, as well street performers. For all the details this year visit www.ndac.ca/nelson-artwalk.
While you’re downtown, perhaps lounge at a cafe, taproom, pub or restaurant - you’ll find more than 100 craft beers on tap. Then, browse the variety of unique shops.
Although Nelson has a great selection of local RV parks, Kokanee Creek Provincial Park is a good choice. It consists of four campgrounds and some of the services include power (in select areas), water, picnic areas, and a dump station. It also has more than 1 km (1.6 mi) of sand beaches along with a boat launch and a network of hiking trails. Site reservations can be made in advance. For more information visit www.bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/kokanee_crk/