Colourful and Adventurous Newfoundland

Rugged Coastlines. Rustic Villages. Unique Culture. No matter what type of experience you encounter here, it’s a great Canadian destination for any RV traveller.

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Words by Jennifer Leigh Hill

Newfoundland and Labrador (NL) is a land of contrasts. The province has some of the highest mountains and the deepest fjords in Canada. There are areas that are thickly forested, while others encompass open, rolling pastureland. When most people think of Newfoundland and Labrador, they envision miles of immense craggy coastlines, and not the scenic beaches to enjoy a leisurely picnic or swim in the refreshing waters.

With its stunning, diverse scenery, what makes NL more unique is its history, people, and culture that’s steeped in history from when early settlers had to manage the harshest of elements to make a living. It wasn’t just fishermen who took out their small craft to fish the rough waters of the Atlantic. Their whole family typically was involved in the processing and selling.

After the catch was processed, they celebrated, giving rise to what is often referred to as the “kitchen party” where family, friends, and co-workers gathered around a wood stove telling stories, singing, dancing, feasting, and of course, having a “swally” of screech – a dark, Demerara rum that’s bottled only in Newfoundland. It’s from these early parties that much of NL’s rich culture arose, and many of the houses, fishing wharves, and sheds still stand today, barely clinging to the steep sides of coves, making the province a photographer’s paradise.

Following four weeks of travelling through Newfoundland in 2019 in a 7 m (23 ft) Class C, my only regret was that I didn’t have another month to see many more of the attractions that I didn’t have time to visit. So, properly planning a trip here is important to ensure a great, memorable vacation. The best way to do this is by first understanding the province itself.

Newfoundland and Labrador is made up of two distinct areas. Labrador is the region on the mainland and to the northwest is the Island of Newfoundland, which is just adjacent to Quebec. The island is large and consequently, the travelling distances are great, so it’s important to plan accordingly.

There is much to see and experience on the island, and the first of the many dilemmas is how to get there and where to go. The logistics of getting to the island can be complex. Most RVers access Newfoundland by ferry from North Sidney, NS, by either taking the North Sydney – Port aux Basque ferry (a sailing time of approx. seven hours) to the western part of the island; or the North Sydney – Argentia ferry (a sailing time of approx. 16 hours) to the eastern side of the island.  Ferry schedules and rates can be found on the Marine Atlantic website.

It’s important to realize that staying in the RV is not permitted during the sail, and pets must either remain in the RV or be kenneled on board. Cabins are also available for the duration of the voyage. Many travellers opt to reserve a reclining chair in the main lounge or sit for free in areas that don’t require a reservation.

Port aux Basques and Western Newfoundland

A week can easily be spent in the western section or two weeks in the western and central regions. The western region is home to Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where there are dozens of well-maintained hiking trails, ranging from easy to challenging. An interesting attraction is a cruise in a stunning landlocked fjord, known as Western Brook Pond, a 16 km (9.9 mi) lake carved by receding glaciers 25,000 to 10,000 years ago. Or, take a cruise on scenic Bonne Bay, which is another fjord, but leads out to the open Atlantic.

While the distance from the ferry to the national park is only 297 km (185 mi), perhaps take some time to get there and check out all of the scenic side trips to discover along the way. There’s the Granite Coast Drive, which leads to the restored Rose Blanche Lighthouse, and the French Ancestors Route that is a hub of French culture where local cuisine can be sampled including fresh bread baked in century-old outdoor ovens. Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto at Lourdes is also popular. 

At the tip of the western region is L’Anse aux Meadows, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is home to the remains of an actual Viking village. See how the sod-and-timber buildings would have looked more than 1,000 years ago. Another highlight along this route is the rural, rustic fishing villages – many have unique names such as Cow Head and Savage Cove, each with its own history. It’s from St. Barbe, north of Port aux Choix, where a ferry goes to Labrador from the island (or vice versa). While all of the main roads are excellent, RVers need to be cautious on some of the side roads into the smaller coastal towns since they can be steep and winding, with the occasional low bridge.

Central Region

The central region is home to “Iceberg Alley” where icebergs that float down from Greenland can be seen in early summer. The historic areas of Twillingate and Fogo Island, which is the largest offshore island of Newfoundland and Labrador, are steeped in hundreds of years of history. One attraction in the central region is the Isles Wooden Boat Museum in Twillingate where RVers can experience the culture of early fishermen and the boats they built. There’s also the Boyd's Cove Beothuk Interpretation Centre with its reconstructed Beothuk Village that’s just north of Gander.

Beaches too can be enjoyed and what is known as the Eastport Peninsula has some of the best on the island – not to mention some of the prettiest fishing villages. A must-see is Terra Nova National Park, Canada’s most easterly National Park with more than 80 km (50 mi) of trails. 

Eastern Region and the Avalon Peninsula

If it’s decided to spend the bulk of a getaway on the eastern half of the island, the best option is to take the ferry to Argentia. A week or more could be spent in each of these areas. The Eastern Region is known for the Burin Peninsula (‘The Boot’) in the south, where a passenger ferry leads to the French Islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, the remnants of the former colonial empire of New France (a valid passport is required.)

To the northwest – approximately 345 km – is the Bonavista Peninsula and the town of Bonavista where it's believed that Cabot first landed and “discovered” Newfoundland in 1497. Some other interesting areas include the towns of Elliston, which is the ‘Root Cellar Capital of the World,’ and Trinity with its several houses, stores, and churches that seem to have stood the test of time. Many such buildings all over the island have been made into ‘local’ museums and all are unique and insightful.

Driving to the Avalon Peninsula leads past a myriad of more fishing villages. Most have ‘original’ names such as Dildo, Hearts Content (make sure you visit the Heart's Content Cable Station Provincial Historic Site, the site of the world’s first successful trans-oceanic submarine telegraph cable sent in 1866), and Cupids.

St. John’s

It’s easy to spend a week in St. John’s, visiting such unique areas as The Rooms, which houses the Art Gallery of NL and the Provincial Museum of NL, as well as Signal Hill, where Marconi received the first transatlantic signal in 1901. Right in the heart of St. John’s is Quidi Vidi, a quaint fishing village, and nearby is the Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site, the most easterly point in North America. The city is also a ‘foodie’ haven, particularly for fresh seafood and good traditional ‘grub.’

South of St. John’s is the scenic ‘Irish Loop’ that leads to rural towns with such interesting names as Bay Bulls, Witless Bay, and Ferryland (the site of the original Colony of Avalon, settled in 1621 by Sir George Calvert). Or continue on the coastal route via Cape Race to the Myrick Wireless Interpretation Centre, a wireless radio station established in 1904 by the Marconi Co. This is where the distress call of the Titanic was first heard by a land station.

Another stop on the route is the Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and where there’s one of the world's most significant fossil sites, and Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve. This is also the most accessible seabird colony in North America that inhabits more than 65,000 birds during mating season. From there, it’s a short drive to the Argentia ferry that can take you to Nova Scotia.

Camping in Newfoundland and Labrador

Finding places to camp on the island is not too difficult. There are 12 provincial parks that have camping facilities, two national parks, 114 private campgrounds (listed on the NL Tourism website), and 87 listings through the Camping Select Program. There are even a few municipal parks (e.g., John Cabot Municipal Park in Bonavista) and wilderness areas that allow limited camping.

In addition, truck stops are also found approximately every 100 km (62 mi) on the TransCanada Highway, as well as 13 Walmart’s, eight visitor information centres with restrooms, picnic areas, and a variety of rest areas where camping is typically permitted. A great source to find boondocking sites (and many other services) is iOverlander.com

Some of the best places I camped were on deserted beaches and even fishing piers. Overnight parking is often allowed and once after meeting some local fishermen, they let me use their shore power and even offered me some freshly caught fish. It quickly becomes apparent why people in Newfoundland are known as some as the friendliest in Canada, and a trip to this island is one you will never forget – I guarantee.

Jennifer Leigh Hill has travelled extensively in Newfoundland, including the time she circumnavigated the island in a decommissioned “spy boat” visiting several ports, some of which are now deserted. Fascinated by place names, she recently published a book entitled “Uncovering the Origins of 1,001 Place Names in Newfoundland and Labrador”.