Coastal Maine: America’s Vacationland

This U.S. State is an East Coast treasure with its unique attractions, RV parks, and one-of-a-kind culture.

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Story and Photos by Jennifer Leigh Hill

Growing up in Montreal, the Southern Maine Coast was my family’s “go-to” summer vacation spot. Typically, we would take just the bare essentials as the purpose of the trip was not only to stock up on school supplies, but it was also a chance to buy some new summer clothes. My mother and father would pack up the car and we’d drive to the small town of Biddeford Pool, where we rented a wonderful old house near the ocean. My memories of sitting on the rocks, eating lobster, and throwing the shells into the sea are as vivid today as they were 60-plus years ago. On rainy days we would go to Portland and shop, but the rest of the time was spent on the beach.

Before COVID-19 curtailed my RV travels, the last major trip I took was up the eastern seaboard from Florida to Newfoundland in Spring 2019 and even though I didn’t experience the greatest weather, I had the chance to check out the best beaches, the best places to camp, the best things to do, and, of course, the best places to get lobster. This included lobster in the shell, lobster rolls, lobster chowder, even lobster ice cream, and lobster beer - two local favorites.

The Beaches of Maine

Maine has a coastline of 5,597 km (3,477 mi), which is more than the state of California at 5,515 km (3,426 mi). Of that, approximately 112 km (70 mi) of the coastline consists of sand beaches with crystal clear water. Typically, the water temperature in July is 15o C (59 ° F) and only a little warmer in August. Most of the “best” beaches are south of Portland with a few further north.

Depending on who you ask, the following are usually considered to be the best beach areas in Maine while heading north from New Hampshire:

  • Ogunquit Beach: Named by the Abenaki People and meaning ‘beautiful place by the sea,’ this is where you can enjoy 5 km (3 mi) of white sand, sea grass-lined rolling sand dunes, shallow water (that is a little warmer than other areas) and mild surf, making it a favorite among families. It gets crowded in the summer so plan to arrive early to stake a patch of sand.
  • Kennebunk: This area boasts three beautiful beaches including Gooch’s, Middle, and Mother’s, which are perfect for walking, sunning, and collecting shells. The sand here is like talcum powder and there are sections with protected water, making it ideal for children.
  • Kennebunkport: There are two beaches in the Kennebunkport region including The Colony and Goose Rocks. Both have rocky areas that are great for rock climbing and investigating low-tide pools. 
  • Old Orchard Beach: This beach is not on my top 10 list, but this 11 km (7 mi) stretch of sand has been attracting visitors since 1863. Featuring a beachfront amusement park (complete with a Ferris wheel, arcade, etc.) and a pier that extends out over the Atlantic Ocean with restaurants and shops, it’s a favorite night-time ‘hot spot’ for the ‘party crowd.’ 

Most of the more popular beaches are located in the south end of Maine, but there are two further north that are probably the prettiest in the state. These include Reid State Park Beach, which is on the Georgetown Peninsula, and Sand Beach at Acadia National Park on Mt. Desert Island. While smaller, both are hidden treasures waiting to be explored.

My all-time favorite after all these years is still the beach at Biddeford Pool. It’s just off Route 208 and the beach is 3.2 km (2 mi) long. Since it’s a bit ‘off the beaten path,’ there’s always plenty of space to the point that you have the beach to yourself.

Parks for RVers

In terms of places to stay, there are many state campgrounds that are easy to book at www.campwithme.com. To reserve a campsite at a National Park, visit www.recreation.gov.  In my opinion, there are three campgrounds that stand out as being the best on the coast. 

The first is Cobscook Bay State Park, which is surrounded on three sides by water, has 106 sites, and can accommodate RVs up to 12 m (40 ft). The second is Acadia National Park Blackwoods Campground. It’s located east of Bangor and while it’s not right on the water, it’s close to it and can accommodate RVs up to 11 m (35 ft). It’s worth noting that both parks don't offer hook-ups, and the sites are small, so large slide outs may be problematic. Finally, there’s Pemaquid Point Campground, a family-owned campground with all the “usual” amenities, including 50-amp hook-ups. The campground is also just up the road from Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, which is a great spot to enjoy picnics.

All of these campgrounds are north of Portland, but the most highly rated campgrounds in the “beach area” to the south include Bayley’s Camping Resort (Old Orchard Beach). It has all the amenities of a large campground geared towards families and can accommodate rigs up to 14 m (45 ft). I prefer to stay at the “adult-only” Wild Duck Campground, which is just up the road in the middle of the Audubon’s Scarborough Marsh – the state's largest saltwater marsh. Wildlife and exploring the marsh by canoe or a kayak are the main draws here, and you really feel like you’re miles away from “civilization”.

Shop to Your Heart’s Content

While I would imagine that most RVers come to Maine to enjoy the scenery, I’m sure there are those who would also like to shop, and coastal Maine is a shoppers’ paradise!  ‘Old’ Route 1, which hugs the coast from Kittery to Freeport, is a shopping mecca, especially for those looking for antiques and Maine memorabilia. At the south end is the Kittery Trading Post, an institution since 1938. It’s now part of the Outlet Stores in Kittery, a mall that’s composed of 120-plus popular brand name outlet stores. At the other end of Route 1, is the L.L. Bean flagship store that first opened in 1917 by Leon Leonwood Bean. My three favorite shops that have nothing to do with clothing are Len Libby Chocolates in Scarborough (a chocolatier since 1926), Stonewall Kitchens in York, (the makers of award-winning preserves, etc.), and When Pigs Fly, an artisanal bakery in Kittery.

Even More to Discover

Maine is steeped in maritime history and there are many lighthouses to photograph as well as several museums to visit. Nubble Light in York (officially called the Cape Neddick Light Station) dates back to 1879 and is one of the world’s most photographed lighthouses and shouldn’t be missed. The Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, touted as being ‘the country’s only surviving historic wooden shipyard,’ would be of interest to many as tours are available to check out a newly restored 1906 schooner. Of course, weather permitting, plan to cruise the coast. There are many boat tours geared towards exploring local wildlife (e.g., whale watching, viewing puffin colonies, and hauling lobster traps).

No trip to Maine would be complete without a visit to one of the numerous government-run parks. However, if I could only choose one, it would be Acadia National Park. It’s the second oldest in the country and was established in 1919. Although the park is quite far north, it’s where you could easily spend a few days. Truly a hiker’s paradise, the park encompasses an area of 19,020 ha (47,000 ac) and has miles of trails with excellent views of the region from the top of Mount Desert, both at dawn and at sunset. Right in the middle of the park is the quaint town of Bar Harbor (pronounced locally as ‘Bah Habbah’ and is another must-see. There are also several RV parks nearby (including Blackwood’s mentioned above).

Enjoy Dining – Maine Style  

Maine is known for its “chowdah” and its “lobstah” not to mention its “wicked” blueberry pie (you quickly will realize that local folks have their own ‘special language’). No matter where you eat, you will be pleased. My favorites after years of testing include the following:

Best Clams: Bob’s Clam Hut in Kittery. This is a New England staple since 1956.

Best Fish Chowder: Helen’s Restaurant, Machias. It’s also home to the best baked wild blueberry pie.

Best Lobster Pie: Maine Diner, Wells. It was featured on “Diners, Drive Ins and Dives” and is a traditional ‘diner.’

Best Lobster Roll: Hill’s Seafood Co, Rockland. Hill’s or just about any roadside lobster shack will please your taste buds.

Best Seafood Platter and Best Baked Scallops: The Clambake, Scarborough. It has seating for 700 so don’t be discouraged by a full parking lot.

Best Lobster Beer: Oxbow Brewery, Newcastle.

Best Lobster Ice Cream: Ben and Bill's Chocolate Emporium, Bar Harbor.

If you haven’t been to Maine, consider it for your next trip. I promise it will live up to its nickname: America’s Vacationland.