Petroglyph in East Sooke Regional Park
By Perry Mack
There’s something thought provoking that reaches out to our primal nature when we’re face to face with thousand-year-old drawings – known as pictographs or in my case petroglyphs, which are etched into the rock. Who ‘pecked ‘ it into the sandstone and why? If I’d been in this spot a thousand years ago, what would I have looked like, what would I have chiseled into the rock? And was I thinking about someone like me kneeling here, aching to reach out and trace the lines that another hand created so long ago.
Vancouver Island has a number of easily accessible petroglyphs, the rock art of previous generations. It's believed that people first arrived on the island at the end of the last ice age, roughly 14,000 years ago. So far, archeological evidence can show human habitation starting roughly 12,000 years ago. And although the age of petroglyphs is hard to determine, most estimates suggest the oldest are just 3,000 years old. Just 3,000 years.
Our search for petroglyphs begins as you leave the ferry at the Schwartz Bay terminal and head south toward the town of Sooke. The East Sooke Regional Park is well known for birding and hiking, with over 50 kms of trails in the 1435-hectare park. The petroglyphs are located at Alldridge point which was designated a Provincial Heritage Site in 1927.
Our next stop is Gabriola Island, which we’ll reach from the Nanaimo Harbour ferry terminal. You should first set up camp outside of Nanaimo. There are a couple of terrific RV parks nearby including Rondalyn Resort and my favourite Living Forest Oceanside RV Park. Set up camp here, find your Indiana Jones hat, and channel the spirit of Captain George Vancouver, the famous explorer of the northwest coast.
Once on the island, head to the Gabriola Museum before you set out in search of petroglyphs. Petroglyphs were often pecked out of sandstone. This soft stone is highly susceptible to erosion from tides, sun, wind and rain, as well as man-made erosion from rubbings and vandalism. Roughly 30 impressions have been made of the original 70 petroglyphs from around the island so you can touch and appreciate the originals without disturbing them.
Petroglyphs are scattered all over the island, on the shores and in the forests. One of the finest is the Weldwood site. Behind the United Church, close to the government wharf in Degnen Bay, is a path that leads to a clearing in the woods where you’ll find large etchings of fish, birds, sea serpents and stickmen.
Your next stop is the Petroglyph Provincial Park (a day use only park) just south of Nanaimo, established in 1948 to protect the numerous petroglyphs throughout the area. Your first stop should be at the interpretive centre to learn more about the petroglyphs - bring some paper and charcoal. Here you’ll find casts of some of the most remarkable petroglyphs. Using your paper and charcoal, create a rubbing of the petroglyphs as a unique souvenir. Perhaps one or two, then you can avoid buying the souvenir knick-knack or t-shirt for your best friend or family member.
Clearly marked trails will lead you through the park to view the petroglyphs. These early artists didn’t randomly choose the locations. They were carved out in areas believed to have strong mystical power. Almost all are close to water or natural features like caves, rock formations and waterfalls.
After you’ve finished with these petroglyphs, enjoy all the other adventures and amenities that Nanaimo has to offer. Then its time to pack up and head north towards Port Alberni and find an RV site in Sproat Lake Provincial Park. The campground is open all year but only offers full services from April to September.
At the eastern end of the lake, lies the petroglyph named K’ak’awin, the mystical lake serpent. The lake also offers swimming, fishing, waterskiing as well as windsurfing and kiteboarding when the wind is up. However, now that you’ve met K’ak’awin, you may want to keep a closer eye down on the water.
Two hours north of Port Alberni is Campbell River and the 10-minute ferry ride to Quadra Island.
Head to the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre at Cape Mudge Village to start the day as you can see your first Quadra Island petroglyphs on the lawn out front. Once again you’ll be reminded that petroglyphs are protected and you shouldn’t disturb them – including making rubbings, but once again you’ll be able to make rubbings from the casts they’ve created while learning about the nature of the local petroglyphs.
Aptly named, you can view more petroglyphs at the end of Petroglyph Road as well as the beach in front of Tsa-kwa-luten Lodge and RV Park. There are only thirteen sites here so if you plan to stay – make reservations – www.capemudgeresort.com. Although this is a small island with a resident population of just 2700, there’s a great deal to enjoy including hiking, mountain biking, adventure tours, salmon fishing (Campbell River is known as the salmon Fishing capitol of the world) sailing, kayaking, scuba diving… you get the idea.
Quadra Island is also known as the Island of the Arts, so if outdoor adventure sports are not your passion you’ll also find every artistic media well represented with most artists studios open to welcome you.
With all that Vancouver Island has to offer, your petroglyph vacation will satisfy not only the budding archaeologists but the nature and art lovers as well.