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Dennis Begin photos
Apache Trail
Beautiful scene along Highway 88
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Apache Trail
Canyon Lake
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Dennis Begin photos
Apache Trail
Tortilla Flat
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Apache Trail
Goldfield Ghost Town
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Apache Trail
Superstition Mountain
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Apache Trail
Salt River Canyon looking west near Globe
Story & photos by Dennis Begin
To the majority of people, the word ‘Apache’ is synonymous with Indian names such as Cochise and Geronimo, or an old John Wayne movie called ‘Fort Apache’ [1948]. It is also easy to associate Apache with modern hotels and casinos located throughout Arizona. The Apache Trail is none of those, but refers to Highway 88 or the Circle Tour from Apache Junction to Tortilla Flat, then on to Globe and returning to Apache Junction by way of Highway 60. This complete tour is approximately 193 km (120 mi) and takes an entire day to explore the route.
History of the Apache Trail
The Apache Trail first became known because of the Apache-Yavapai War of 1871-75, with the Battle of Salt River or the Massacre at Skeleton Cave [1872]. The Indians were trying to escape the US Calvary led by Lieutenant Colonel Crook and took shelter in Skeleton Cave near what is now Apache Lake. A massacre best explains what happened next. The Apache Trail remained largely undeveloped during the gold rush period until the constructions of four hydro-electric power dams on the Salt River. Beginning in 1904, the Apache Trail was transformed by creating the Saguaro, Canyon, Apache and Roosevelt Lakes or Reserves. The little town of Tortilla Flat evolved as a rest stop for the wagons carrying supplies. Today’s tourists are drawn to the area, not for the dams, but for the lakes and the Apache Trail.
Apache Junction to Tortilla Flat
The Apache Trail today officially starts in Tempe and heads west to Apache Junction along Highway 60. The scenic drive from Apache Junction to Tortilla Flat on Highway 88 is only 27 km (17 mi). The winding road, although paved, is a challenge of one’s driving skills because of the eight narrow hairpin turns. It is recommended that large motorhomes and fifth wheels not make this drive.
As the road winds up into the Tonto National Forest there are deep canyons, volcanic rock formations, jagged mountains and several viewpoints, ideal for photos. At times, it feels necessary to hug the inside rock walls instead of looking over the edge. The posted speed limit is 15-25 mph throughout the entire route. There are also two single lane bridges along Canyon Lake to navigate.
Vegetation along the highway is typical of the Upper Sonoran Desert, with saguaro, ocotillo and cholla cacti dotting the picturesque landscape. Other desert trees and shrubs such as ironwood, sagebrush, palo verde (green wood) and mesquite trees are intermingled with the bright colours of the rocks.
Canyon Lake
The vast majority of tourists only visit Canyon Lake. It is the smallest of the four lakes, created when the Mormon Flat Dam was built in 1925. The lake is aptly named, with its steep canyon walls and beautiful blue colored water. Facilities on the lake include a restaurant, marina, a small RV Park, as well as lake cruises on the Dolly Steamboat. The lake is also ideal for camping, boating and picnics along the lakeshore. Apache, Saguaro and Roosevelt Lakes are also popular recreational areas, with hotel and marine facilities.
Tortilla Flat
Tortilla Flat takes its name from a nearby butte shaped like a tortilla. It is only 3 km (2 mi) from Canyon Lake, has the appearance of a western movie set, including a man hanging by his neck outside the saloon. None of the buildings are original as Tortilla Flat was first located on the opposite side of the creek. The town now consists of a one room school house museum, restaurant, gift shop, saloon and an ice cream/candy shop. Population of the town is six to ten people, depending on who you ask. For most tourists, Tortilla Flat is the end of the line. The reason being that the paved road is replaced by a narrow winding gravel road and four wheel drive is recommended. The objective is to travel safely up and down Fish Creek Hill with its rock cliffs, no safety barriers and a drop in elevation of 450 m (1,500 ft). This section of the Circle Tour is seen as the real Apache Trail and leads to Apache and Roosevelt Lakes. To complete the tour on Highway 88, the now paved road leads to Tonto National Monument (Sinagua Indian cliff dwelling), and finally into the old mining towns of Globe and Miami.
More to See
There is more to see than the Apache Trail. Visitors have their choice of other attractions including Superstition Mountain Museum, Goldfield Ghost Town and Apacheland Movie Ranch, where Elvis Presley used the church in the 1969 movie ‘Charro’. The Lost Dutchman State Park is a good place to stay with an RV but make a reservation well in advance. The myth of Jacob’s Waltz’s lost mine continues to fascinate gold seekers as The Lost Dutchman Gold Mine has yet to be discovered.
It is the Apache Trail, however, which draws most tourists in order to experience and appreciate a different mountain view of the beautiful Sonoran Desert.