How to Thrive Boondocking in the Desert

Goosenecks State Park in Southeastern Utah provided the perfect isolated boondocking experience after careful preparation and having a keen interest in the natural attractions.

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Story and Photos by Jason Betzing

Certain destinations are memorable for us and keep calling us back. One such area for my wife and I is the desert and in particular, Goosenecks State Park in Southeastern Utah. We have been wanting to return here for about five years as its peacefulness and serenity are unlike anywhere else we have visited. ‘Breathtaking’ is an understatement. It was just us, the expansive canyon and the San Juan River.

Despite its beauty, some parks in the desert such as Goosenecks are ‘boondocking-only’ without the common services like Wi-Fi, water, power, and other campground amenities. But there are advantages including fewer visitors, campsites that serve as excellent base camps to explore the area, and peacefulness. After spending three nights at Goosenecks, listed below are a few highlights of the area and some examples of how we thrived, lived comfortably and enjoyed boondocking in the desert to the fullest extent. 

The sites at Goosenecks are first-come, first-served. As the largest and most scenic sites are known to book quickly, we arrived with our big rig early Friday morning to claim a spot before the weekend campers swarmed in that evening. Goosenecks State Park isn’t the largest park of its kind in the U.S., but it is big on scenery. With 360-degree views, the park and some of the sites are perched on an edge of a winding, narrow canyon known as the ‘gooseneck’ with the San Juan River twisting and turning 305 m (1,000 ft) below. RVs can park on the rim of the canyon and enjoy the solitude and dramatic views of the 300 million-year-old entrenched river system.

We paid $10.00 (U.S.) per night here, but nearby is Valley of the Gods with free camping on the BLM lands among the buttes and monolithic pinnacles. The whole area is a worthwhile stop while heading further southwest to the Grand Canyon, north to Arches or Canyonlands National Parks, or even south to New Mexico or Texas. If you're serious about getting away from it all, this is the place.

Desert Boondocking Tips

The desert is known as a warm, sunny place to escape winter's bite. However, it's important to note that this region gets cold in the winter months. The last time we were here we awoke to a dusting of snow) on the ground. Although we've stayed in other deserts during various seasons, spring and fall are our favourites. There are less dramatic temperature shifts and plants explode with vibrant wildflowers. The temperatures are also milder. So the sweet spots for us to visit a desert are around April/May and September/October. Summer can also be enjoyable but daytime temperatures can reach well into the high 30 C (100-plus F). 

But boondocking in the desert, like boondocking anywhere else, takes some preparation. First, arrive with full fresh water tanks as well as empty grey and black water tanks due to the often limited facilities. Winds can also pick up without warning so be sure to roll up the awning at the first sign of strong breezes and as boondocking sites can be rugged, bring plenty of levelling blocks. We’ve also experienced intermittent cell and text service but no data - none - with our Verizon phones. So, inform anyone of your whereabouts before departing. 

Food refrigeration is another consideration. For dual fuel fridges, use a full propane tank (a standard 20 lb propane tank will keep your refrigerator going for an estimated 11 days) and remember running times for residential fridges and inverters with a battery depends on the size of your RV’s battery bank. In our fifth wheel, we have a limit of eight to 10 hours until we hear the low voltage alarm on the inverter. To manage this, we run our generators briefly to recharge the batteries in the evening and the morning. 

Boondocking in the desert (for any amount of time) also means the RV will get dusty - inside and out. The fine, reddish-orange sand will find a way to get inside, but a good interior cleaning and a visit to a truck wash will simply solve the problem. The air filters for the engines of the tow vehicle and generator engines should also be checked at least once and cleaned out and I also like to check the A/C intakes. 

What to Do

For us, the desert and an area like Goosenecks is a place to unplug and recharge. There's no hustle and bustle, traffic, or social media - just silence. The vast, surreal landscapes provide plenty to see and photograph while the dark, clear nights are excellent for stargazing. Desert sunsets are the best. Uncork your favourite bottle, light a fire, and enjoy being in the ‘moment.’ 

How we Enjoyed Goosenecks State Park

You can get the most of any trip by exploring the area. At Goosenecks we made a point to visit The Valley of the Gods where we saw the buttes and formations up close. They were much larger in person. A 27 km (17 mi) dirt road meanders through the hulking formations with frequent pull-offs and trails. As BLM land, it's also free to visit and is open to hiking and biking. 

There was also the nearby community of Mexican Hat 13 km (5 mi) away with a convenience store offering gas, diesel, and some basic groceries. This is always handy when visiting a more remote desert location. If you visit this area, be sure to check out the precariously perched rock formation visible from U.S. Route 163 that resembles a sombrero.

Another attraction we visited was Bluff, UT, a scenic 41 km (25 mi) drive from Goosenecks. Jeep and UTV rentals were available as well as guided river rafting tours. It’s always worth it to take advantage of these services as they are great ways to further see the area. It’s surprising what you can discover. 

We also enjoyed a day trip to Monument Valley, AZ, a 50 km (31 mi) drive from Goosenecks. It's a great trip down scenic US Route 163. It felt like driving onto a western movie set. At any moment I expected the Road Runner (the overzealous and seemingly immortal cartoon character) to go zipping by with Wile E. Coyote hot on his trail. 

Boondocking in the desert is a true RV experience, and a destination like Goosenecks State Park is one example of how isolated ‘desert RVing’ can get. Nevertheless, the landscapes, local culture, and natural rock formations can all be enjoyed to the fullest extent, providing just one more memorable experience in your RV. 

Interested in Utah and Goosenecks State Park? Here’s a Quick Snapshot of our Itinerary:

Day One 

After a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Cuba, NM, we pulled into Goosenecks State Park and admired the sprawling vistas, and quickly decided to stay three days instead of just one. We set up camp and just took the scenery in. Being a weekday, there were very few visitors and even fewer RVers. We discussed power management over a glass of wine (and bourbon), observed bats darting around at sunset and then did some stargazing.

Day Two

Following breakfast, we went to Bluff (population 250), to see the historical Bluff Fort, the Navajo Twins rock formation and then drove back to Goosenecks, taking the long way through the Valley of the Gods. We called it a night after a barbecue dinner and enjoyed another majestic sunset.

Day Three

We departed for Monument Valley, AZ. On the way, we stopped at Mexican Hat Rock and stopped numerous times to capture images. At Forrest Gump Point (where part of the motion picture was filmed), there were more than a few selfie-snapping visitors in the middle of the road. 

Departure

As we hitched up and pulled in the slides, we were already discussing a return trip. As we left, the distant blueish purple plateaus, hoodoos and spires faded slowly into the horizon. It was when we decided that full-time RVing was our calling five years ago. While the minutes passed, the river flowed below and the vast quiet stillness allowed us to reflect on our desert boondocking experience. 

Goosenecks State Park

Valley of the Gods

Mexican Hat

Bluff

Monument Valley

Jason Betzing and his wife sold it all in Michigan to live their Full-Time RV dream. He retired at age 40 when they decided winter is a drag and world travel is more fun than shovelling snow. He loves helping people by sharing authentic, first-hand experiences. Connect on Instagram @FullTimeFire, or his blog at https://www.MilesTwoGo.com