Kolyn Radbourne
We were really happy during our shakedown run. We also installed a set of General Grabber X3s 285/75R16 tires and it has been unstoppable on the trails.
Words and Photos by Kolyn Radbourne
Years ago, when I first started four-wheeling, lifting a rig was a fairly straightforward DIY process - just swap out the leaf springs and shocks, and it was pretty much good to go. Now that I own a Nissan Xterra, lifting it to run larger tires was a little more work. I had to contemplate how I was going to use it and be sure to purchase all of the right parts and turning wrenches for proper fitment.
There are often two ways to do a proper lift for an independent front suspension (IFS) vehicle like my Xterra. The first is to install a spacer on top of the strut assembly. This is usually limited to about 5 cm (2 in) max lift and it changes how the suspension responds to travel.
My Xterra only has 10 cm (4 in) of overall travel in stock form. For simplicity, let's say it has a compression and droop of 5 cm (2 in). Even though the spacer will result in the same amount of overall travel since it’s engineered into the upper and lower control arms, it will change the operation with the suspension arms by pushing the frame up and away from the lower control arm (LCA).
What this will do is place the coil bucket closer to the upper control arm (UCA) but there will still be 10 cm (4 in) of overall travel. However, it does change where that travel happens. For instance, more travel and less droop is the opposite of what you want since the wheel will travel up into the body. Additionally, it will also bring the UCA closer to the coil bucket, thus increasing the possibility of making contact.
The second method is to install an aftermarket shock and strut combo. This offers the potential for more lift, a better ride and if you use high end shocks, increased travel. Nonetheless, travel can still be limited by coil bucket contact (CBC), but this can be addressed by installing aftermarket UCAs. Keep in mind, high quality shocks and aftermarket UCAs can be pricey just to gain some added lift and a little more travel.
For my Xterra, I had one more option since it was built on the same platform as the full size Titan. If you do a full swap using all front-end components from a Titan, you’ll get a long arm suspension with up to 25 cm (10 in) overall travel as well as a stronger front differential and CV axles. Now, that would be the ultimate upgrade for the Xterra. There are aftermarket kits available but again, they can be expensive.
Realizing that travel is one of the most important factors to maintaining traction off-road, this was the way I lifted my Xterra. I wasn’t too thrilled about the cost but thank goodness for the creative 4x4 online communities. I came across a post about the ultimate DIY lift. Follow along as I gave it a go over a weekend in my driveway.
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Kolyn Radbourne
My Xterra in its stock form.
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Kolyn Radbourne
With the truck securely supported, I started the disassembly.
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At full droop, this is how close the UCA comes to the coil bucket.
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Every driveway DIY project is better with friends helping out.
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Kolyn Radbourne
Everything came out - the CV Axles, inner and outer tie rod ends, as well as the UCAs and LCA. At this point, I kept the stock Xterra front diff so that it remains in place.
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Kolyn Radbourne
There are special tools available to remove the inner tie rods. We were able to use some hydraulic wrenches. The steering was swapped to match the increased width of the Titan suspension.
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Kolyn Radbourne
As the mileage increases on a 4x4, so does the muscle required to loosen some bolts that power tools can’t get off.
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Kolyn Radbourne
The bolts on the LCA of Nissans are notorious for seizing to the metal sleeve in the bushing. Power tools were not enough so I needed to break out the mini-torch.
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I stripped everything down and was ready to bolt on the new parts.
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Here is the stock UCA compared to the new one. I reached out to Mevotech Suspension for all the suspension and steering components except for the springs and coils.
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Kolyn Radbourne
LCA comparison. You can see how much larger the Mevotech Titan LCA is. The company uses high-quality replaceable lower ball joints and rubber bushings that work better for travel than poly bushings. They are also nicer for daily drives.
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I applied a special grease that was supplied with the UCAs to the upper bushings in the UCA. Be sure to use a good amount. I experienced some squeaking from not using enough.
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Kolyn Radbourne
The upper control arm installed. Notice how much more droop it has over the stock arm. Yes, it is hitting the coil bucket but once the shock assembly is installed, it won’t be an issue.
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Kolyn Radbourne
The upper and lower arms installed.
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Kolyn Radbourne
For the shocks, I found a set of Toyota Tundra Bilstein 5100’s that had two extra machined grooves for the spring perch. This setup also required custom top hats to maximize travel.
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Kolyn Radbourne
The groove you use depends on the springs. Pretty much any Tacoma, 4Runner or Tundra springs will work. There are plenty of good resources online.
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Kolyn Radbourne
I used 3rd generation 4Runner springs as they have a good spring rate to support an aftermarket bumper and a winch down the road. The lowest groove was required as anything more would have lifted the truck too much, and wouldn’t allow for correct suspension geometry. Be sure to use a quality spring compressor and don’t install it with power tools.
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Kolyn Radbourne
Everything is installed and there is so much droop. What I haven't shown are the extended-length brake lines custom-made by my local hydraulic shop. I actually had to jack the truck up a little more to fit the wheels and tires.
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Half-way there.
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Kolyn Radbourne
Cheap was the theme of this build. So, for the rear, I pulled some leaves out of a Titan at my local ‘pick and pull.’
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Kolyn Radbourne
After disassembling the stock spring packs, I had to cut down the extra leaves a little.
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Kolyn Radbourne
I then reassembled the spring pack with a shim to maintain the correct driveshaft angle.
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Kolyn Radbourne
Next, I reinstalled the spring pack. I needed to use new U-bolts that I had made at my local auto supply store. Longer shocks will also need to be installed. Mine unfortunately had not arrived by the time I started the swap. I also needed to get some universal spring clamps to keep the springs aligned.
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Kolyn Radbourne
I (with some friends) worked well into the night to get it all done.
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Kolyn Radbourne
This mod resulted in a 10 cm (4 in) of lift (overall) and gained about 8 cm (3 in) wider in the front. To keep a more balanced look, wheel spacers can be installed in the rear.