Ticket for One – North Bound

Hitting the trails in Northern BC and The Yukon should be experienced by any hardcore wheeler.

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Words and photos by Kristina Wheeler

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My annual epic wheeling trip was a coin toss between the Kootenays and the Yukon.  As I had 17 days, the Yukon won with Haines Junction as my final destination with a much anticipated run along Telkwa Pass near Smithers in Northern BC.

The entire trip was a little less than an 8,000 km (4,800 mi) round trip from Maple Ridge, BC with just my dog, Hitman, and I. With all my gear loaded, I climbed into my 2005 Jeep TJ with its 4.5” lift and made my way north. The plan was to drive up the Alaska Highway for a return trip down the Cassiar, taking the opportunity to explore many of the dirt roads that meander through Northern BC and the Yukon. 

As I approached Laird Hot Springs, nightfall was fast approaching and it was time to find a campsite that I previously marked on Backroads Map Book.  After a short while, the average Forest Service Road (FSR) I was on had an unexpected surprise with puddles steadily increasing in depth. As the road continued, I came upon an extremely deep one, which had a culvert that could potentially slash my sidewalls. It seemed my fate was shining and I traversed successfully with all four tires still intact. I was now staring at two gates, defining the moment to text a friend using a Garmin InReach who was familiar with area.

Me:  I have come to two gates, which one should I take?

Friend: What gates? There should be no gates.

Turning around, I soon noticed a path leading down to a river that shimmered in the moonlight. This was my home for the night. The next morning, my furry travel companion and I took a stroll down to the river.  As we made our way back up to the Jeep, he took off growling and barking like a hellhound and then bolted back soon after a fair-size black bear ran across the road in front of us. Avoiding animal contact and packing up the campsite, I made my way back out towards the main road, stopping to check out a few abandoned structures I had passed the previous night. I continued north for the next two days towards my most-northern goal of Haines Junction. 

The challenge travelling in the Yukon is that there isn’t an equivalent resource to the Back Roads Map Books, so there’s a lot of “where-does-this-road-go?” Some are just your standard 4x4 trails, while others can win your heart like the one I travelled on between Haines Junction and Kathleen Lake that had a river flowing on the south side. 

I then made my way to the small town of Carcross to explore Montana Mountain that is home to several abandoned mines and a monastery. If you ever visit this area, keep in mind that a lot of the mines contain arsenic, asbestos and other materials, which are very hazardous to one’s health. 

A little further south is the quaint, rural town of Atlin. My Backroads Map Books showed an accessible warm hot springs just down one of the local FSR’s. So, I took the opportunity to do something I don’t normally do – I soaked in the pool for about four hours, with little fishies trying to nibble at my toes.   

After my relaxing break, I drove south towards the Cassiar as I wanted to ensure I had adequate time to explore the trails along the section of highway that dips from the Yukon into BC then back into the Yukon.  Immediately east of the Continental Divide rest area is a dirt road that leads to a landing strip, then a little beyond are the remains of an outfitter camp.  Just adjacent is Daughney Lake, which has a few isolated campsites.  

Continuing south down the Cassiar, the local black bear community was thriving with sightings practically every 15 minutes. The one provincial park I do recommend to camp at is Boya Lake, just north of Dease Lake. Its turquoise waters are clear all the way to the bottom and the beaches resemble those in the Bahamas.

South of Dease Lake is a series of First Nations’ cultural camps on several of the trails. This includes the FSR to Ealue Lake, which also consists of a few bridges that are well past their prime and lead to some more interesting, accessible trails.  Making my way further south, just past Kinaskan Lake Provincial Park, I arrived at Willow Creek FSR, which not only has some trails to explore, but I learned its home to a few cougars.

Another reference to my Backroads Map Books revealed a series of interesting trails with a variety of lakes located just to the east and south of Meziadin Junction. Bonny and Jigsaw lakes caught my interest and I had to air down due to the rough conditions and more potholes. Nonetheless, Jigsaw Lake was a true win.

As I carried on to Bonny Lake, the overgrown trees quickly turned into a car wash. I then thought to myself, would a sane person a pull trailer down this road? To my surprise, there was a large fifth wheel nestled perfectly in a camping spot. After introducing myself, the camper explained that once he had started through the overgrowth, he decided he was committed.  Committed is an understatement.  

Leaving the site, I began hearing a strange noise at the back on my TJ. I first thought it was the tire carrier rattling and that I need to replace the bushing when I get home. But a few kilometres and many potholes later, I decided to get out and see what it was. It turned out that somewhere along this route a pin holding a rear shock came loose and fell out. The shaft of the shock was severely damaged and resembled more of a corkscrew, with no hope of getting it back on, so off it came. I then decided to take a quick detour along the backroads of Kitimat to visit Enso and West Lake Recreation Sites. I lucked out as I was able to catch a glimpse of one of the wolves in the area.  

As I looked at the time, I realized I needed to set up camp as the next day would be the last opportunity to truly explore. The following morning I headed into Smithers to grab a few supplies, and then set off to first explore the Microwave Telkwa trail. Heading off the trails, I came to a snowmobile cabin with a 360-degree view, which has stood the test of time very well. 

I had been saving the Telkwa Pass for my last trail run as a friend of mine had once showed it to me on a day when the lake was like a mirror. However, like many times during this trip, Mother Nature greeted me with almost monsoon-like weather. 

As I progressed along the trail, the trees added some more pin stripping to the TJ and as I continued through the overgrowth, I looked over to the passenger side and saw the top of the fender flare hanging out behind the mirror.  A few years ago, the flare on the driver’s side had come off and was now in my storage room at home – I now have a matching set. 

Continuing past Top Lake, I descended into Tauw Lake, feeling like I had been transported to the untouched misty mountains a millennia ago. Nearing the end of my trip, I poured myself a glass of Chianti to celebrate my journey and embraced the feel of rain on my skin while admiring dozens of cascading waterfalls. The lake, swollen to the brim by the recent storm, lapped at the lush green bases of the mountains, making an eerie sound in the otherwise silent valley.  

Many areas made my list to re-visit including the quaint hamlet of Atlin, Jigsaw and Kathleen lakes, and the many trails along the Cassiar. I gained a lifetime of memories during this trip with the only carnage being a damaged shock, a missing fender flare and a very low balance in my bank account due to my gas bill.  

What did I learn? My biggest takeaway was that I could happily live running remote trails and enjoy my jeep for months on end, with a few modifications that could provide some added comfort and convenience while on the road. See you on the trails.