How to Choose: Off-Road Comms

Purchasing off-road communication systems can be daunting but understanding the right equipment will provide you with a unit you can count on.

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Words by Devin Speers

When it comes to vehicle-to-vehicle communications – on the trail or on the road – I’m still a fan of radio over a smart phone. It’s faster and you aren’t dependent on a cell signal. Even more benefits arise when used in a driver-to-spotter application. For the purpose of this article and to get you started, we’re going to touch on the basics of the four main types most commonly in use by wheelers and overland enthusiasts. In order of popularity, they would be CB, FRS, GMRS, and HF/VHF/UHF, or the more commonly known HAM amateur radio.

CB (Citizen’s Band)

CB is what everyone thinks of when they think of radio communications in a vehicle. They operate in the AM high-frequency band with Channel 1 being 26.965 MHz and Channel 40 being 27.405 MHz. Legally-limited to 4 watts of output power and not requiring any licensing make these a popular choice.

They’ve been the go-to since the late 1970s and a good radio with a properly tuned antenna will easily net you a 19 km (10 to 12 mi) range, which is generally more than enough for the trail. It’s also a very cost-effective solution. A quality radio like a Uniden CMX760 runs about $170 CAD and a quality antenna like a Wilson Lil Wil is about $70 CAD. For some light damage of $240, you’re into a very solid and reliable setup. CB is also still the mainstay of all commercial trucks, which can be a help – or even at times entertaining – during a road trip.

Family Radio Service (FRS)

These are the handheld walkie-talkie-style radios you see on the shelf at every electronics or sporting goods store. They operate on Ultra High Frequency band from 462.5625 MHz to 462.7250 MHz at either 0.5 or up to 2 watts of power, depending on the frequency.

They are another license-free option, but are severely limited in their range. In practice they are a .4 km (¼ mi) line-of-sight radio despite what the packaging says. Some disadvantages include the small antenna, lack of power output, and the fact that they operate on the UHF band.

UHF frequencies are far more suitable for developed areas than for covering distance. However, they do have their purpose on the trail and are ideal for spotter-to-driver communication. Yet, they are not something to use from vehicle-to-vehicle at greater distances.

General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS)

This is the newest class. It shares the same UHF band as FRS radios, but can run at a higher wattage when licensed (US only). At the time this article was published, higher-powered GMRS are not available for legal use in Canada, but they can be licensed in the US for a small fee for 10 years by family or a company.

Essentially, anyone can use them under one umbrella-license. With the licensed GMRS, you can start to obtain some of the benefits of HAM radio such as the power output (50 watts) and the ability to use repeaters, but without having to take a course and write tests. Due to this, GMRS is gaining in popularity in the US. It also allows for communication between FRS and GMRS on certain frequencies.

Amateur Radio (HAM)

Ham is most the complex and hardest type of comms to get into but it’s also the most versatile and powerful. There are amateur bands in HF, VHF, and UHF. The most common ones that are used include 10 Metre (HF), 2 Metre (VHF) and 70 cm (UHF) bands. But all of these require licensing to transmit on. For use in off-road vehicles, the 2M VHF bands are what I’m going to focus on – and I will only be scratching the surface.

There are two major pros of getting a VHF setup in your truck or jeep. The first one is range. Some mobile radios can pump-out up to 65 watts. On simplex (radio-to-radio), a range of approximately 80 - 90 km (50 - 60 mi) is easily doable with a good antenna.

With a repeater, which essentially receives your signal and retransmits it with a lot more power, the ability to reach hundreds of kilometres away is on the table. This leads right into the second biggest pro – emergency use. Most repeaters are tied into a phone line. You can access that phone line if you are out of cell service for emergencies – or even order a pizza. Although the most capable and powerful form of radio available, it doesn’t cost that much more than a good CB setup. While you can go down the rabbit hole and sink thousands of dollars, you can easily start off with a basic dual-band radio from Icom, Yaesu, or Kenwood at about the $300 mark. Or even a handheld radio, which are limited to 5 watts for far less money.

I’ve used a cheap Baofeng handheld with an upgraded antenna and hit a repeater 32 km (20 mi) away. It cost me a grand total of $80 CAD. But this can’t be counted on as handheld units can be expected to have the same range as a CB. Of special note, when it comes to emergencies, most radios on the market can receive bands outside of the designated amateur bands. This means your local emergency services or even the aviation bands can be listened to. Transmitting on these bands is locked out on all quality radios, which is also heavily frowned upon.

So Which One Do You Choose?

This is almost as dependent as the people you run with. If everyone is running a CB, having a HAM setup is next to pointless and vice versa. CB is still king as far as popularity goes, but HAM is catching up.

Personally, I have a permanent CB in my truck as well as a handheld dual-band (VHF/UHF) when I need it. I’ve also begun to notice that a lot of commercial traffic is turning towards VHF. It’s not uncommon to end up on a logging road with a posted VHF frequency, but it’s only an assumption that those trucks are on channel 19 on the CB.

It’s also a good idea to make your presence known on a haul road. The FRS and GMRS options are better than nothing if you remember their limitations. Realistically, FRS radios’ applications basically end at the driver-spotter applications.

Licensing

If you’ve decided you’re going to go HAM, you need to be licensed to transmit on any of the amateur frequencies. You can buy the equipment, listen in, and get your feet wet unlicensed.

Industry Canada is the regulating body and the regulating body in the US is The Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The best resource in Canada is the Radio Amateurs of Canada website (www.rac.ca). In this way, you can find your local club and how to go about taking the course and writing the license exam. The last I heard, the Morse code requirements have been removed from the test, making it that much more accessible and less of a hassle to get licensed.

Antennas

No matter if you choose CB or HAM, the antenna and how it’s mounted is the trick. If you have a set budget, spend less on the radio and more on the antenna, coax, and mount. They also need to be properly tuned via a SWR meter. For a CB antenna, Firestik and Wilson are two choices you can’t go wrong with. For HAM, use a Diamond and Comet unit.

How they are mounted is just as important. Antennas also need to be grounded, and the absolute best place is as high as possible surrounded by sheet metal. This easier said than done on a Jeep.

A good rule of thumb is to have at least have 1/3 of the antenna above the roof line. Also remember that a steel whip will always get better range than a fibreglass unit. When it comes to handhelds, they are severely limited as the antenna is in the vehicle. In fact, this essentially blocks the signal, which is another aspect to consider if you’re opting for a handheld.

At the end of the day it’s best to use what everyone you wheel with uses. On paper and technically HAM is superior, but CB is simpler to get into and more common. If you’re heading into remote areas, I strongly recommend venturing into the world of HAM radio. It has the flexibility and extra capability that could really end up saving your tail in a jam.