Rough Country Install
When it comes to instructions, I have learned that one should never 'assume' anything. In our Eaton locker install, we had too much drag on the carrier that could not be associated with the pinion gear.
Albert Vandervale
Are you man enough for instructions? Now, I’m not talking about ones from me, but the ones that come packaged with your off-road products, with the 'build it yourself' furniture from Ikea or Wal-Mart...
I’ve long promoted that the best place to start your install is with the supplied paperwork, even if they're not always perfect. Your install should start a few days before you break out the wrenches, by reading the instructional booklet/pamphlet cover to cover. Next, you should look over your parts, checking to make sure that all required pieces are in attendance, then repeat the same with your tools – you don't want to discover that you're without a 32MM socket, on a Sunday. A hint? WD 40 is your friend - spray it on every bolt and fastener (at least a week before you aim to begin), that you will be needing to remove during your project.
When it comes to instructions, we ran into a glitch or two during recent installs - namely our Superlift lift. The instructions were dated 2012, but the JK was a 2011. Of course, the new Penstar V6 underwent an engine change in 2012. It turned out that it was only the addition of a limiting strap for the 2012, thus allowing us to carry on. This fact discovered, we decided to stop just the same, better safe than doing all of that work for nothing.
Conversely, we found with another of our installs, the Edge Juice programmer, that the instructions were stellar – all except the missing section dealing with the supplied cable that plugged into the OBD II port (being the power supply)... but we figured that one out ourselves, easily enough.
When it comes to instructions, I have learned that one should never 'assume' anything. In our Eaton locker install, we had too much drag on the carrier that could not be associated with the pinion gear. There was nothing in the instructions explaining these issues, so instead of making assumptions (that the locker actually fit in that way), we stopped, took some time, and eventually found that the tabs on the ring that stop the magnet from spinning were bottoming out on the casting. The tabs where bending over when we tightened the end caps down, and were pressing the magnet into the carrier. It took a few times of us removing the locker and doing some light filing (maybe a 1/16 of an inch at most) until everything started to slide smoothly. Without this step, we could have added friction wear and potential heat damage to the locker. Not Eaton’s fault, for I’m sure you could install that locker in 10 different diffs with each of the stock castings a little bit different.
What it really comes down to is taking the time to go through the instructions. Do not ASSUME anything; call their tech line if needed, visit the manufacturers web site for more information, and above all, take your time. If you are patient and thorough - making sure to check everything twice - you'll end up finding that you're 100% happier with your new parts. Another hint? Don’t throw away your Ikea allen key – eventually everything will need a good tightening.