Words by Jacqueline East
It’s time for retreat, rest, and renewal and there is no better place to transform yourself than by leaving the shore and finding your way to Galiano, a long narrow island marking a line between the Strait of Georgia and the Trincomali Channel. It offers all the services you need to stay for a while but you’ll feel more at home if you plan ahead while visiting this special destination.
The shores of Galiano Island are fascinating to explore by boat with cliffs rising above the water, laced with sandstone layers from the tide, winds, and rain runoff. It’s also important to note that the caves and formations are unique among the islands in this area as well.
Galiano is a bird-lover’s paradise as it’s in the migratory path of many species, and more than 150 have been spotted. Both Porlier Pass and Active Pass have been designated as two of Canada’s Important Bird Areas. So be sure to watch for signs marking some of Galiano’s many shore access points and amazing hiking trails for more stunning views. You’ll also discover some of the beautiful sheltered beaches along Galiano’s scenic coastline.
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Scenic Active Pass between Mayne and Galiano Islands.
Montague Harbour
Montague Harbour is the perfect destination for a boating getaway. The harbour has plenty of space for anchoring with dinghy docks at the park and marina. The Marine Park at the north end of the harbour has limited moorage with only buoys for small boats but there are more options at the Public Wharf on the southern part of the harbour. Moorage is also available (from spring through to fall) at Montague Harbour Marina along with a dinghy dock, fuel, groceries, and supplies. Reservations are always recommended during the summer.
Once you settled into Montague Harbour, relax and spend few days hiking and exploring the immediate area. You can find ancient specimens of stately Douglas fir trees and reminders of original Coast Salish settlements in the middens along the beaches as you stretch your legs. Rent a canoe, kayak or paddleboard from Gulf Island Kayaking to further explore the shoreline or enquire about lessons and guided tours (their bioluminescence night tour is popular).
When hunger strikes, order take-out lunches from the marina’s Crane and Robin Restaurant or book well in advance for a renowned world-class dining experience at Pilgrimme, which is just a few minutes’ walk from the marina. But you won’t really experience Galiano until you jump on the Hummingbird Bus with Tommy Transit and head to the Hummingbird Pub. The bus will pick you up and return you to the marina.
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A serene setting – Montague Harbour.
One of the many advantages of staying at Montague Harbour is the option to rent a moped or e-bike at the marina to explore the rest of the island. Francis Moyle, owner of Galiano Boat & Moped Rentals, will more than just rent you a scooter; he will set you up with a map and advise on the best spots to check out. Plan two full days of rental – one for the south island and one for the north island.
Galiano Island South
Whaler Bay Dock is home to fishing craft and working boats, but it does have some availability for transient moorage. It’s walking distance from the Village (and ferry dock), offering easy access to many restaurants and shops. Sturdies Bakery serves specialty coffee and made-from-scratch buttery croissants. You’ll also want to try the Galiano Inn for its fine dining and popular wood-fired pizza, while Babes in the Woods or Oxeye serve great soups and sandwiches.
Most services, including groceries, liquor stores, clothing boutiques, cafes, even a bookstore, art galleries, and food trucks are in the Village or along Studies Bay Road. It’s always best to check ahead to see what is open and, in COVID-19 times, wear your mask and maintain social distancing while indoors or when you encounter local residents, shop owners, and service workers. Islanders take health and safety very seriously and they are great teachers of how to do it better. Galiano is a close-knit community, with a focus on events including theatre, a thriving Saturday Market plus music and art events.
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The unique rock formations in Galiano Dionisio Provincial Park.
Hike up forest trails to Mount Galiano, the highest point on the island where you will be drawn into layers upon layers of the Gulf Islands marking the eastern edges of Vancouver Island; greys on greys are highlighted with blues and purples, depending on Mother Nature's mood. Or, plan a picnic and overlook Active Pass at the Bluffs Nature Protection Area on your way back from Mount Galiano to soak up more spectacular scenery and a mixed forest with Douglas fir, arbutus, western red-cedar, bigleaf maple, and hemlock. Active Pass is also a common route for orcas and humpback whales. You can get an even closer look from the water's edge by walking a short trail through Garry oak meadows to the tafoni-textured shore at Bellhouse Park. Take your gear if you want to fish in the swift currents of the pass.
Locals recommend Cain Beach for swimming and beachcombing where the worn, rounded rocks offer a spot to rest. East-facing Morning Beach has fine white sand, an early sun, and shallow waters and where you can enjoy a warm dip in the Salish Sea.
Galiano Island North
Retreat Cove has room for a couple of boats at the public wharf while a couple more could be anchored among the private buoys. The Spanish Hills dock is in the Trincomali Channel at the north side of Galiano. Keep in mind there are no services and limited space. The dock, run by the local government, is used mostly by locals but boaters can inquire about usage with the wharfinger.
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Rock formations can also be found throughout the island, including in Retreat Cove.
Galiano is also home to many artists and artisans and while there are art galleries in the Village, most are studios tucked away in the forest. Grab a map and discover something special. Cedar Grove Pottery and Marcia de Vicque Glassworks are just two easily accessible galleries from the main road. Dionisio Provincial Park is marine access only, making it exclusive to boaters. Simply, anchor in one of the three small bays and make your way to shore to enjoy its sand beaches and hikes through the forest. It’s open all year for day use and overnight camping, but there are no showers or power. Take caution with Porlier Pass and its strong currents, which flood north into the Strait of Georgia and ebbing south back into the Gulf Islands.
Taking a Break from Your Boat
If you wish a night or two of luxury away from the boat, complete with dining and cocktails, book a night or two at Bodega Ridge, Galiano Oceanfront Inn and Spa, or Woodstone Manor. They all offer exceptional hospitality and will take care of you in superb style. Galiano Inn has its own dock and is building a new 100-foot dock for summer 2021 near the public wharf (at BC Ferries dock) for guest moorage.
The Gulf Islands are special places that deserve special care. An own-your-experience boating vacation is a perfect way to satisfy your need for travel. Explore these places and you will feel yourself becoming a new knower of rest, creativity, and preservation. You may find yourself heading home with new ways of thinking about the places and their people.
For more information be sure to visit southerngulfislands.com or galianoisland.com.
Ruth Hartnup