Two Great Fall Drives

Words by Jennifer Leigh Hill

Some songs seem to demand that you open the windows, crank up the radio, and start singing. On a trip down the U.S. Eastern Seaboard in fall 2019, I didn’t turn up the radio in my RV but rather turned it off to sing Take me Home, Country Roads to myself in a hushed tone. 

This signature recording from John Denver refers to some of the secondary U.S. thoroughfares that connect with The Skyline Drive and The Blue Ridge Parkway, both registered as National Scenic Byways.

These routes lead to some interesting rural communities such as Luray, VA, which is home to the stunning Luray Caverns, which is an underground landmark where one can see and hear The Great Stalacpipe Organ, the world’s largest musical instrument. There’s also Saluda, NC, a scenic mountain community with a historic downtown district that doesn’t look all that much different from when it was first settled in the late 1870s. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1996. 

Established by the U.S. Congress in 1991, the National Scenic Byway Program (NSB), according to the Federal Highway Administration, “is a grass-roots collaborative effort established to help recognize, preserve and enhance selected roads throughout the United States.” To be designated an NSB,  the roadway must have a variety of the six “intrinsic qualities” including “archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic.” 

One of the main reasons visitors flock to this area is to admire the scenery. However, other qualities of the region include the culture as it’s the birthplace of traditional ‘bluegrass music’ (as well as some world-famous moonshine - sample at your own risk).  

In the fall, typically from mid-October to mid-November much of the focus is on ‘leaf-peeping’ and in the spring, from late March through to early June, the focus is on ‘flower-peeping.’ While some trees including the evergreen fir, hemlocks and pines remain green, it’s the reds of the dogwoods and gum trees, along with the yellows and oranges of the hickory, birch and maples that are visually striking.  In the spring, wildflowers provide carpets of colour. The rhododendrons, azaleas, and other select plants produce flowers that are white, pink, orange, red and sometimes purple, creating stunning panoramas.

The Skyline Drive, a route that runs through the more northerly Shenandoah National Park, was conceived as far back as the 1920s, but it wasn’t until 1939 that it was finished. Today, it spans 169 km (105 mi) from Front Royal, VA, in the north to Rockfish Gap, VA, in the south. 

It’s here where it connects to The Blue Ridge Parkway, which leads southwardly to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, connecting some of the best National Parks in the US. Covering a distance of 755 km (469 mi), this parkway travels south through Virginia, ending at its southern terminus in Cherokee, NC. Construction of the parkway began in 1935 but it wasn’t finished until 1987, 52 years later. 

Here are several suggestions that will make the perfect RV trip along these two routes: 

1. Take a Slow Journey 

One could drive the two byways’ complete distance in 10-plus hours if the speed limit was 100 km/h (60 mph). However, the speed limit is between 56.3 km/h (35 mph) and 72.2 km/h (45 mph) and there are 300 overlooks and numerous trailheads where you will want to stop at, gawk and take pictures.  I would recommend spending at least two or three days (if not longer) hiking, swimming, fishing, exploring neighbouring towns, and more.

When travelling in the fall, remember the days are shorter. So, it’s best to plan time accordingly as it can be challenging to drive at dusk into the night. The roads are windy and there are very few shoulders, so caution needs to be taken. Also, make sure to know the RV’s maximum height before departing as there are four tunnels with a maximum clearance of less than 3.9 m (13 ft).  

Low hanging tree branches, especially after a rainstorm can also be problematic and wildlife (e.g., deer, black bears, wild turkeys) is known to dart out on the road without warning. While the road is generally easy to drive, there are several areas with steep grades that demand slower speeds. There are also some blind curves to carefully navigate. Be sure to watch out for cyclists, horseback riders and, of course, pedestrians. 

2. Camping

There are five campgrounds on The Skyline Drive and eight campgrounds on The Blue Ridge Parkway (the majority are reservable at www.recreation.gov). Even though there are hundreds of sites and demand increases during peak seasons, be sure to reserve ahead of time to find a comfortable location, especially on weekends and popular holidays. 

None of the campgrounds on The Skyline Drive and The Blue Ridge Parkway have hookups,  however, generators are permitted during certain times. If amenities are required (i.e., electrical, water and sewage) there are also private campgrounds available to visit. Most are not far from the park boundaries. My advice is to visit during the week as the parks fill up quickly and the routes can become very congested on weekends. 

3. Services and Planning Accordingly 

One nice aspect of these two routes is the lack of ‘tourist traps.’ That being said, don’t expect to find convenience stores, motels, and gas stations. Should any of these services be needed, leave the parkway(s) periodically to stock up on necessities. The only gas station in Shenandoah National Park is at Big Meadows and prices typically are steep; there are no gas stations on The Blue Ridge Parkway. 

Restrooms are also limited so you may want to stop at the various visitor centres if needed. Cell coverage is intermittent, and similarly, radio reception can be poor in spots. Some park facilities (visitor centers, campgrounds, etc.) are only open seasonally.

4. Watch the Weather

Being in the mountains, expect changing weather conditions and dress accordingly. Clouds and even snow are possible at the higher elevations. ‘Fog oceans,’ which is when fog blankets the area between peaks, are common and occur one or two times a week in the summer and two or three times a month in the winter. While rain showers are common, they often pass quickly and when the sun reemerges the scenery is almost magical. 

Road closures due to downed tree limbs are frequent but can be easily avoided by leaving the byway and reentering a few kilometres further along. I would strongly suggest downloading the national park app (www.nps.gov/subjects/digital/nps-apps.htm) to check out the road conditions before departing.

5. The Best ‘Peeping’ Times

The intensity of the colour changes of fall foliage is dependent on a number of factors including the amount of rain over the summer, the occurrence of prolonged warm daytime temperatures, cool weather at night, etc.  A major factor is elevation and there’s a considerable difference between the two routes.  

The elevations on The Skyline Drive are less than that of The Blue Ridge Parkway so naturally, colour changes will typically occur in the more southerly location earlier than in the north. Rather than just stay in one area, perhaps drive a considerable distance in either direction (north or south) to see the effect of elevation on foliage changes. 

While descending in elevation there’s a mixture of north- and south-facing mountains, as well as east and west. The direction that the various mountains face will also affect colours due in part to the amount of sun exposure, as well as the different types of vegetation that grow in each location.   

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4 Special Stops to Plan During your Visit:

The fall is a spectacular time to view the magnificent colours in the region but here are a few must-see attractions to further enhance a trip:

1. The Blue Ridge Music Center

www.blueridgemusiccenter.org

2. The Blue Ridge Folk Art Center

www.blueridgeparkway.org/poi/folk-art-center

3. The Biltmore Estate 

www.biltmore.com

 4. The Oconaluftee Indian Village 

https://visitcherokeenc.com