The Tunnels of Moose Jaw

Unique history awaits RVers visiting this Saskatchewan city.

by

Words by Dennis Begin

When the CPR built its railway across the prairies, it named the depots after local landmarks including Pile of Bones for Regina and Bone Creek for Moose Jaw. In the Cree language, Moose Jaw means a ‘warm place by the river.’ These names have evolved and Moose Jaw is now a key destination along the Trans-Canada Highway for RVers with a variety of attractions, including its popular ‘tunnels.’

Located at 18 Main St., the Moose Jaw Tunnels reflect the interesting past of this Saskatchewan city. Two tours are available through underground passageways that enlighten visitors with costumed guides, providing accounts of the insightful activity and purpose of this historic underground system. Moose Jaw built its tunnels in 1908 to transport steam heat but the Chinese and bootleggers of prohibition had other plans.   

The Passage to Fortune Tour

The Passage to Fortune regales the story of early Chinese migrants and life in the tunnels. Although the living conditions have been described as appalling, the Chinese had few choices for housing. The tunnels allowed the chance to avoid taxes and racial discrimination. Prosperity would come through hard work (but above ground).

From 1907 to 1908, a wave of Chinese immigrants came to Canada for a better life. The Federal Government discouraged this by implementing expensive head taxes and draconian laws. The Canadian Immigration Act or the Chinese Exclusion League prohibited all Chinese from entering Canada in 1923. When Chinese workers at CPR were treated horribly over job security, they went underground for their safety.

Saskatchewan was not immune to incidents of racism, being systemic and pervasive but Moose Jaw was known for its acceptance of the Chinese population, especially for its commitment to self-sufficiency and independence. Anti-Asian protests/riots did occur in the province during this era just as there were riots in Vancouver and Toronto.

There is only anecdotal information that the Chinese lived in the tunnels. There is, however, plenty of historical evidence they had lived above ground and assimilated into Canadian society. They operated their businesses including laundry services and corner stores, and also found employment working on farms, in mines and on roads. Numerous Chinese businesses in 1908 were listed in the Moose Jaw City Directory. (*Ed note: While the Passage to Fortune Tour is currently closed for restorations, the facility opened a new tour in 2021 called Bunker 24, reflecting 1950s espionage and the Cold War.)

Chicago Connection Tour

By the early 1920s (or ‘The Roaring Twenties’) the tunnels became popular during prohibition for storing and smuggling liquor. Governments in Canada and the United States adopted Prohibition, which included a ban on the importation, transportation and sale of alcoholic beverages.

Going ‘dry’ resulted from the various protest movements such as the Anti-Saloon League and the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union. In Canada, prohibition was a provincial responsibility from 1918 into the 1920s. In the United States, the 18th Amendment made prohibition a federal law from 1920 to 1933. This ‘Noble Experiment’ was designed to cure the social ills of society but created larger problems such as organized crime.

Moose Jaw was called ‘little Chicago’ or Canada’s ‘most notorious city.’ If someone wanted alcohol, one way of obtaining it was illegally through local bootleggers. Rumrunners used the tunnels to store liquor illegally before it was transported by the Soo Line Railroad to Chicago where gangsters like Al Capone controlled its flow into illicit speakeasies.

Al Capone visiting Moose Jaw is both a fact and myth. There are stories of barbers cutting Capone’s hair, a dentist cleaning his teeth, and conversations with railroad employees. It’s known that Capone was safe in Moose Jaw since Police Chief, Walter Johnson, turned his back on bootlegging. Spending time in Canada also meant escaping Eliot Ness and the Untouchables in Chicago.

However, the RCMP claimed that Capone “never set a foot on Canadian soil.”  Capone on the other hand - when asked about Moose Jaw - stated, “I don’t know what street Canada is on.” Some historians claim he never visited Moose Jaw and the tunnels were a myth.

In fact, according to Kelly Carty, business development manager of the Tunnels of Moose Jaw, Capone’s niece, Deidre, once visited the facility and explained he did indeed come to Moose Jaw. Although he wasn’t purchasing booze from anyone’s bathtubs since he bought Rum in Cuba and Rye in Saskatchewan, she explained he called this God’s country due to the corrupt police and good whisky.

The first tunnels were made of dirt and then were strengthened with stone walls, steel doors and reinforced concrete, making the tunnels very safe. Stairs and routes lead underground to smaller rooms that have different functions, including bottling, shipping and the tasting of Canadian Rye Whiskey.

RVers visiting the Moose Jaw Tunnels will experience actors dressed in period customs including ‘Gus’ with a Thompson submachine gun and ‘Fanny,’ the owner of the whole Moose Jaw operation.

The fireplace and concealed doors reveal secret passages to escape authorities. Life appeared to be exciting under Main and River Streets at a time when liquor, gambling and prostitution were the main attractions.    

Historical Presence

History is a narrative or the telling of a story and describes those who have lived and events that took place. The goals of the tunnels are to inform, entertain and teach visitors Canadian history. The majority of people attend this attraction for its entertainment value.

Due to COVID-19, the Tunnels of Moose Jaw were closed for 17 months. As of July 2021, only the tunnels of the ‘Chicago Connection’ and ‘Bunker 24’ will be open to the general public. The Chinese tunnels will remain closed.

Kelly Carty, the Business Development Manager, explained that due to the pandemic, they had an opportunity to renovate the tunnels. When they reopen, the public will experience new graphic designs, videos, costumes, photographs, music and historical evidence, along with new business practices. Visitors can look forward to the ‘New Tunnels of Moose Jaw.’

www.tunnelsofmoosejaw.com

Moose Jaw Area Campgrounds

Located along the Trans-Canada Highway, approximately 70 km (43 mi) from Regina, Moose Jaw provides the perfect stop for RVers heading east or west with a number of services and campgrounds. Some choices of RV parks in and around Moosejaw include:

  • Prairie Oasis Tourist Complex

This is just one of the choices in the area and offers 52 pull-through full-service and an additional 25 sites with water/power as well as a campground store, showers/washrooms, a playground, and dump station. www.prairie-oasis.com

  • River Park Campground

Located in the Wakamow Valley near the tunnels, this RV park is at the edge of the Moose Jaw River, has 56 sites and is open from May to October.  www.wakamow.ca/camping

  • Peanut Hills Campground

On the east side of Moose Jaw and close to many services, Peanut Hills offers 110 pet-friendly sites, 30- and 50-amp power, modern washrooms and showers, coin-op laundry, as well as free WiFi. www.peanuthillscampground.ca

  • Bin There Campground

Hence its name, ‘six bin cabins’ are unique accommodations as they are converted from metal grain bins into comfortable spaces to stay the night or a few days. There are also 13 pull-through RV sites with power, a BBQ area, community fire pit and hiking trails. www.bintherecampground.com

  • Buffalo Pound Provincial Park

Just 20 minutes from Moose Jaw, Buffalo Pound Provincial Park has hiking and mountain biking trails, fishing plus opportunities to go canoeing and kayaking. Multiple-night camping options are available and the sites have 30- and 50-amp service. www.tourismsaskatchewan.com