Stanley Park’s Storied Past

Historic sites and sounds still prevail in one of Canada’s most historic and well-known urban destinations.

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Words by Dennis Begin

In September 1888, Lord Stanley, Governor General of Canada, officially opened Stanley Park in Vancouver. It’s the third largest park in North America spanning 405 ha (1,001 ac) and draws approximately eight million visitors annually.  

In 2014, Trip Advisor ranked it as the top park in the world based on preserved historical landmarks, waterfront views, tourist attractions, sports fields, forests, and walking/hiking trails. Despite its popular attractions and active grounds, the known and unknown history of Stanley Park continues to fascinate all kinds of travellers who visit the area every year. 

Interesting Facts on Deadman’s Island  

The Squamish Nations’ name for Deadman’s Island is Skwtsa7s, meaning ‘island.’ This area in Coal Harbor has a sordid past and is known as ‘The Haunted Island.’  

Although it’s closed to the public, it’s interesting to know that there are considered to be more ghosts or apparitions on the island than living residents, especially in Building #1, a recognized Federal Heritage Building near its shore. Numerous people have reportedly heard footsteps on stairways and furniture being moved during the night.   

It also has an interesting past. The island has served as a native village, battle site, tree-burial cemetery, smallpox gravesite and was the home to early settlers of Vancouver. 

The island is now home to the HMCS Discovery, which is a recruitment and training center for sea cadets and the Royal Canadian Navy. 

Lost Lagoon 

Despite its moniker, this lagoon was never lost.  When Captain Vancouver paddled through Coal Harbor in 1792 to Second Beach, Lost Lagoon was just a tidal mudflat. It was created when the Stanley Park Causeway was completed off Georgia St. in 1916. The Jubilee Fountain was added in 1936 and revitalized 50 years later to commemorate Vancouver’s Centennial. 

Canadian Pauline Johnson, a Vancouver poet, called the area the ‘lost lagoon’ as the water disappeared at low tide. RVers - especially birders - will enjoy the easy 1.79 km (1 mi) loop as it’s a sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. 

The Stanley Park Nature House, operated by the Stanley Park Ecology Society, is the gateway to touring this area. Some highlights include interactive displays on local ecology, nature-themed activities, real specimens of park wildlife and a gift shop.

Logging

Stanley Park was originally known for its logging industry and from 1860 to 1880, this resource extended from Brockton to Prospect points. The park has always been rich with Douglas fir, Red cedar and Sitka spruce. 

The Squamish people were employed by the lumber companies and the area was also home to the Coastal Salish, including the Musqueam, Squamish and Tsleil-Waututh indigenous peoples. The village of X̱wáýx̱way (pronounced whoi whoi) occupied what is now Lumberman’s Arch and Fox’s Den, a popular children’s splash park.  

This area is largely used for family outings. For more activity, there’s the 10 km (6 mi) seawall loop to enjoy and approximately 27 km (16 mi) of biking and hiking trails, which were once used to haul the logs.

Nine O’clock Gun  

At 9 pm sharp, the sound of a cannon can be heard throughout the park, which was cast in England in 1816, installed along the seawall and first fired on October 15, 1898. The cannon is a 12-pound muzzle-loaded naval gun. While most people assume the cannon has something to do with the local military history or the closing of the park, neither fact is correct.  

The first purpose of the canon was to warn fishermen to stop for the day. The present purpose is a ‘time signal,’ informing the general public and foreign ships of local Vancouver time.                     

Military History  

Many people are surprised to learn that Stanley Park has a military past. In 1859, Burrard Inlet was a military reserve under the control of the British Royal Navy.  

Before the Canadian Confederation in 1867, it was feared Americans would seize Vancouver. During World War I, the Germans had battleships stationed in Tsingtao, China, posing a concern for a possible attack on Vancouver. The military solution was to install two four-inch calibre guns on Ferguson Point, which was the perfect location to protect English Bay.  

However, it was World War II that concerned Canadians since Japan could attack Vancouver in 1942. Japanese subs had already struck Estevan Point Lighthouse, located on the West Coast of Vancouver Island, on June 20. Other Japanese attacks were on Dutch Harbor, Alaska and Fort Stevens, OR. 

The solution was to improve the battery at Ferguson Point with 4.7-inch MK1 guns and 6-inch MK guns. Third Beach employed barracks, offices and storage. Ten searchlights lined the west side, including at Siwash Rock. The foundations of the guns are still visible at Ferguson Point while the Officers’ Mess is now the Teahouse in Stanley Park restaurant.  

Attack on the Fort Rae  

To defend Vancouver during World War II, the Canadian Government built battery positions at Point Atkinson (Lighthouse Park), Point Grey (UBC), Narrows North (Capilano) and Ferguson Point in Stanley Park.  

Any Japanese battleship that crossed the Examination Line between Point Atkinson and Point Grey could be sunk with a 6-inch MK gun from these four strategic locations. The artillery was manned by 720 men of the 15th Coast Artillery.   

On September 15, 1942, a Canadian freighter, the Fort Rae, was approaching First Narrows in the evening when it was accidentally hit by a warning shot from the Narrows’ North Battery.  The ship took on water and had to beach to prevent sinking. As a result, this was the only shell fired in the defence of Vancouver during World War II. 

It’s worthwhile to take some time and research the history of Stanley Park and visit some of the lesser-known sites to further enjoy one of the most popular and historic parks in Canada. For more information visit www.vancouver.ca or www.destinationbc.com