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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
Waterfall along the road
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
Inn at Natashquan
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
Rusty rocks
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
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James Stoness
Quebec’s North Shore Highway
Near the end of the Road
Story & photos by James Stoness
For centuries the St. Lawrence River has been a gateway to Canada, and during all those years it has spread bits of humanity along the way. Fishing villages proliferated, and hard working people cleared the land to create tiny, hardscrabble farms, where it would have been better to leave the forest alone.
On Quebec’s south shore, a road now connects these centres of population along the shores of the Gaspe Peninsula, and into New Brunswick. On the north shore, progress has been slow. True, there are a few major towns, but the Que-138 Rte comes to an inglorious end just past the community of Natashquan. Someday perhaps, the Quebec government will complete the road through to Banc Sablon, making it possible to reach Labrador and points beyond. As it is, to sample the scenery along the north shore of the outer St. Lawrence River, you’ll have to drive it – both ways.
The journey begins at Tadoussac, a mere ferry ride (free) across the Saguenay River. There was a First Nations settlement here when Jacques Cartier arrived in 1535, but it wasn’t established as a fur trading post until about 1600. It has continued to grow and is now a vital tourist stop. The immense, red roofed Hotel Tadoussac is the trademark of the town. Its spectacular riverfront view and elegant landscaping are a photo op you don’t want to pass by.
Tadoussac sits at the junction of the Saguenay Fjord and the St. Lawrence estuary, one of the biggest and deepest estuaries known to man, that extends 250 km to the widening of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The water here is salty enough to resemble the ocean, and there are several whale watching tours available. You can also book a scenic tour to take you into the high-walled Fjord. We found a nice camping spot at Domaine des Dunes, and a convenient shuttle bus to take us to the tours.
Great scenery is the reason for the drive from here to the end of the road at Natashquan. Much of the time you see the river on one side, and small, rolling mountains on the other. Of course, this means the road is like a roller coaster at times, with grades reaching 10-12% to slow you down. In some places the trees are very short, like the far north, and we also saw them digging peat and carting it away.
Nearing Baie Comeau the soil is sandy, and the estuary is now about 80 km wide. Even though a small town, there are large hydro transmission lines bringing in enough power to run the aluminum smelter. Its port makes it easy to bring in the bauxite. The road north takes you to Labrador City and beyond.
From Baie Comeau to Sept Iles you are driving in the wilderness for 230 km, with very few buildings along the way. You may think you are driving east, but the St. Lawrence runs northeast, so you are now farther north than the top of Lake Superior. The port of Sept Iles was the terminus for the North Shore and Labrador Railway, which connected Schefferville to the water’s edge. This was eastern Canada’s busiest port, and for years the railway carried iron ore from the northern mines for export from Sept Iles.
The seven islands of Sept Iles form the basis of an archipelago, and is a top tourist destination to see the whales, plants, and animals of the area. We took a tour in a zodiac across the bay to the island of Grande Basque, which is the only island with hiking trails and campsites. We had a very enlightening walk as we listened to the experienced naturalist tell us about the flora and fauna along the path. Nearby Corossol Island is a bird sanctuary and a great place for bird watchers.
As you travel east between the towns of Longue Point and Aguanish, you come to the Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve. This is a marine park encompassing a thousand islands, sea stacks, and other crazy, natural sculptures of all shapes and sizes. A convenient way to visit them is to take a tour from Longue Pointe de Mingan, with a park interpreter. This is a popular region for visitors to hike and camp, as well as a favoured area for sea kayaking. Stop at the info centre at Havre St. Pierre for up-to-date information about the reserve.
Last stop is the little village of Natashquan. Here the paved road ends and a gravel road continues a short distance. The Hotel Auberge La Cache is a comfortable place to stay if you want lodging before heading back.
It may be an isolated area, but Quebec’s North Shore has a lot to see, and crowds won’t be a problem. It’s definitely a pleasant and worthwhile trip for the adventurer.
For more information about the estuary: