Words by Megan Kopp
Heading west from St. George, Utah, towards Nevada’s Highway 93, all we were looking for was a reprieve from the congestion and seemingly endless construction that is driving I-15 through Salt Lake City. What we ended up finding were a windfall of historical sites and geological treasures.
Exploring Cathedral Gorge
Arriving late in the day, we pulled off US 93 just north of Panaca, Nevada, into Cathedral Gorge. The sun was slowly turning water-sculpted, siltstone cliffs into gilded works of art. We rushed to capture its golden glory before settling in for the night under star-studded skies.
The following morning, we headed out for an easy, relatively level stroll up Juniper Draw, exploring the multitude of hidden caves and crevices in this constantly eroding landscape. Taking the side path through the canyon to Miller Point overlook is a little more of a strenuous climb, made easier by the installation of solid metal stairways.
Back in the early 1900s, the Edwards brothers from Panaca built ladders to explore the “nooks and crannies” of this unique landscape. According to interpretive signage, the Edwards family went on to become strong advocates for preserving and protecting the area, which became a state park in 1935.
Reaching Miller’s Point, your eyes are drawn to the rustic stone and wood ramada, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s. It is one of the best observation points of the park’s cliffs – and can be reached by road if climbing the stairs is not to your liking. The trail continues past the parking area another 0.8 km (0.5 mi ) to Eagle View Point, offering an aerial view of Juniper Draw and the campground.
Heading back down the stairs, we rejoined the Juniper Draw trail and ended up at Cathedral Caves – the perfect backdrop for Biblical pageants and other open-air dramas in the early years of the park. Be sure to wander a little way into the hidden caves – their sculpted beauty is inspiring.
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This historic water tower was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).
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Mrs W.S. Godbe lived in the nearby mining camp of Bullionville. The eroded spires reminded her of European cathedrals. In 1894, she named the area Cathedral Gulch. It was later changed to Cathedral Gorge.
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Overlooking the gorge from Miller Point.
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Side canyons of Juniper Draw beg for exploration.
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Trails within the park are well-marked and easy to follow.
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Venturing inside Cathedral Caves.
Pioche’s Past
Later that afternoon, we headed 16 km (10 mi) north to Pioche. Interest in the area began with the discovery of silver in the winter of 1863-64. It would take another four years before San Francisco financier F.L.A. Pioche bought a few of the claims, erected a smelter and helped establish a mining camp in the area. By 1870, production was valued at more than $600,000.
The town’s population swelled over 7,000. Lawlessness was rife. The first recorded murder in Pioche was March 29, 1868. when saloonkeeper Frank Pitt was shot by Jacob Colburn.
Incredibly, the Pioche area claimed nearly 60 percent of Nevada’s reported killings in 1871-72.
Despite its lawless character, Pioche real estate values skyrocketed. Lots selling originally in the hundreds were now fetching thousands of dollars. But then the first disaster struck. In September of 1871, 300 kegs of blasting powder exploded in a mercantile. The resulting fire destroyed much of the burgeoning town.
Although new buildings quickly rose from the ashes, flash floods hit in 1873 and 1874, and a second fire gutted most of the commercial district in 1876. Later that same year, both of the larger mining companies in Pioche ceased major operations. The town hung on by a thread.
Fast forward 30 years and Pioche was once again booming. Railways came as close as Caliente and the mines began producing with easier access to markets. The town came back to life with the addition of new businesses, a school, a bank, and a newspaper. Like all mining towns, Pioche was boom and bust. The mines closed again in the Depression, reopened in the late ‘30s and were all but done by 1958.
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Stockum House is a rare original – surviving flood, fire and time – in Pioche. It was vacant when we visited, awaiting its next life.
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The Pioche Oddfellows & Rebekah Lodge was built in 1872 as the J.J. Halpin’s Hardware Store. It became the lodge after Halpin’s business moved on to the boomtown of Silver Reef, Utah.
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The Nevada Club dates back to the early 1900s. It sits on the site of the original Pioche assay office.
Walking the Ghost Town of Today
Our first stop was the Lincoln County Museum. The random displays of donated artifacts and cases of rocks and minerals are worth a glance, but the highlights are the historic photos of early Pioche and the free “Treasure Hill Chronicles” newspaper that, although dated, has an excellent walking tour map and legend inside.
The museum building was originally constructed around 1900 by A.S. Thompson. It burned in the fire and was rebuilt and remodeled (as were many of Pioche’s buildings) in later years. James Gottfredson, Sr. bought the building for a mercantile and clothing store that ran for several years, but when it closed in 1962, the family donated the building to Lincoln County for a museum.
From the museum, we headed uphill, past the Nevada Club & Pioche Odd Fellows Hall and the Picohe Record before crossing the street to the Stockum House. Built by Mr. Veitch in late 1866, this house has seen many reincarnations. Dr. W.W. Stockum used it as an office and residence during the 1920s. It has been used as a private residence, boarding house, hotel, church, office. and art gallery. In 1983, it was restored.
Heading back downhill, we stopped to appreciate the historic architecture of the Alamo Club, Stever’s Store, the Bank Club Building & Pioche Mercantile and the Silver Café. The café has been in business for over 100 years and is still operating today.
Continuing left on Hwy 321, we strolled past the brick St. John’s Masonic Lodge, taking time to enjoy Pioche’s old Fire House across the street. A little further ahead are gated mine shafts, the fading glory of the Mountain View Hotel and Pioche’s claim to fame – the restored “Million Dollar” Courthouse.
We made one more walking stop off Main Street to view the opera house. First built in 1873 by Aleck Brown, this completely restored beauty was named Thompson’s Opera House in 1892.
Picking up the truck and trailer due to waning hours, we drove down past the Opera House, the Orr Garage and the now-closed Pioche School to Boot Hill. The old cemetery is almost overshadowed by the rusting Pioche Aerial Tramway, but still holds dozens of stories worthy of reflection.
Far too soon our time in Cathedral Gorge and Pioche were over but heading back to Hwy 93 to continue the journey north, we felt richer for having found these geological and historical gems.
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An old mine entrance lies just off the road between the Mountain View Hotel and the St. John’s Masonic Lodge.
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Built in 1895 by the Ely Valley Mines to house their guests, the once grand Mountain View Hotel is slowly slipping into obscurity.
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The “Million Dollar” Courthouse got its name not from elaborate design, but from the cost overruns and delayed payments that spiked the original $26,400 investment in 1871 into more than $800,000 by 1936.
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A display outside the courthouse points to the abundance of mines in the area.
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We drove into Pioche with our tiny trailer in tow and were lucky to find parking by the fire house that also served as the apartment for the fire chief for nearly 40 years.
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The Silver Café is one of oldest continuously operated businesses in the state of Nevada.
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Over the years, the Opera House transitioned into a movie theatre and then a public meeting space before becoming home to the Pioche Chamber of Commerce.
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Built in the early 1870s as a blacksmith or harness shop, the Orr Garage was the place for auto repairs starting around 1915.
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During the first settling of Pioche, it was said that 72 men “were killed with their boots on” before anyone died a natural death. Many of these men were buried in the “Old Boot Hill” cemetery.
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The historic cemetery on the edge of town is a testament to the miners and their families who make Pioche a memorable place to visit.
When You Go
Pioche is located 310 km (193 mi) north and east of Las Vegas on US 93. Note: parking for large rigs within the town is extremely limited. Consider leaving your motorhome or trailer at camp. Information on camping at Cathedral Gorge can be found online at http://parks.nv.gov/parks/cathedral-gorge