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Tom Skinner
Viewing grizzlies on the Atnarko River with Kynoch Adventures.
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Tom Skinner
Some of the Grizzly photos from the Belarko Wildlife Viewing Platform.
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Jamie Skinner
Pink Salmon leaping on the Atnarko River.
Words by Tom Skinner
Bella Coola is a town of approximately 2,000 on the West Coast of British Columbia, which is rich in history, surrounded by mountains, and home to numerous rivers including the Bella Coola, Atnarko, and the legendary Dean. When my grandson, son, and I visited in 2020, it became apparent pretty quickly that the region provides great opportunities for outdoor experiences including hiking, hunting, fishing, and wildlife viewing, offering a great multi-faceted getaway for RVers.
The region is also home to the Nuxalk First Nations people and many facets of their culture are evident today including petroglyphs, art, and history. In 1894, there were only 16 non-aboriginal people living in the valley when 200 Norwegians arrived. They named their settlement Hagensborg, and there’s evidence of the original homesteads of these Norwegians still standing today.
The start of the journey to Bella Coola begins at Williams Lake, which is considered to be the hub of the Cariboo and might best be known as the home of the Williams Lake Stampede. It’s approximately six hours from Vancouver and two hours from Prince George by motor vehicle, and there are a number of gas stations, grocery stores, and lodging of all types, including RV campgrounds.
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Tom Skinner
Kinikinik Restaurant in Redstone BC.
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Tom Skinner
Kinikinik Pond
From Williams Lake, follow Highway 20, which is a paved road winding through the Chilcotin Plateau, past small villages and ranches towards Anahim Lake. The Chilcotin plateau runs from the Fraser River west to Bella Coola. Travelling through small communities like Riske Creek, Hanceville, Tatla Lake, and Kleena Kleene evokes a sense of adventure and history. In addition to ranches of various sizes, including the Gang Ranch, one of Canada’s largest, you can’t help but notice the result of the Williams Lake Fire of 2017.
What is also evident is a mix of old and new, as substantiated by Kinikinik, a pasture-to-plate operation in Redstone that pops up in the middle of cattle country. It features timber frame lodging, a Swiss chef, and a restaurant with a gorgeous view that can be admired from a deck that overlooks a small pond.
An Experience to Remember
To break up our drive into two sections, we stayed at Escott Bay Resort on Anahim Lake. In addition to very friendly Chilcotin hospitality, we were impressed by what the lake offered. Fishing produced a few nice rainbows on a fly in a short period of time. The lake itself was alive with a variety of birds including a cheeky belted kingfisher, common goldeneyes, and a pair of great blue herons. But what caught our eye was a pair of White Pelicans cruising along the lakeshore. White Pelicans breed in the Chilcotin at Stum Lake, which is a protected Provincial Park (White Pelican Provincial Park). The birds do leave the area for feeding and it’s quite common to see them at lakes like Puntzi and Anahim.
Tom Skinner
Freedom Road, built in 1953, is both a way into Bella Coola as well as out.
Once you’ve passed Anahim Lake you’ll leave the pavement and follow a gravel road to what is frequently referred to as the ‘Hill’ or ‘Freedom Road.’ This 20-minute drive is feared by some and opinions vary for the best way to tackle this route. Keep in mind, the road was completed in 1953 and although there were some hair-raising adventures in the last 67 years, vehicles, technology, and safety features have improved significantly, as has equipment for road maintenance.
I will admit to being unsure about travelling this stretch of road prior to experiencing it. What I can say is that I’ve pulled a trailer on bumpier, narrower, and more dangerous roads than this. Its descent has up to 18 percent grades that lead from the Chilcotin Plateau to sea level, with hairpin turns, frequent pullouts, and some narrow areas. By shifting into low gear and taking your time, passengers can appreciate the magnificent scenery while you concentrate on driving. There are numerous pullouts and you need to drive with caution (as you should any time while at the wheel).
Tom Skinner
View from Rip Rap Camp
The road was smoother than most gravel roads I have travelled on and is used all year by transport trucks hauling provisions into Bella Coola. It was named the Freedom Road as it allowed the residents of Bella Coola to get out of the valley by land. The reverse is now true as it allows those entering Bella Coola the freedom to enjoy outdoor recreation, adventure, and pass through Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, which is ranked as BC’s largest.
Once you arrive at the bottom of the Hill, the road is paved leading into Bella Coola where there are services like gas, grocery stores, and lodging. We stayed at Rip Rap Camp, located east of Bella Coola in Hagensborg, where the accommodations are rustic, yet clean, and well maintained. Offering a variety of camping options from tenting to full-service sites, it’s adjacent to Highway 20 with a viewing platform overlooking the Bella Coola River. The community swimming pool and the Royal Canadian Legion Hall are across the street, as is the Augsburg historic church and Norwegian Heritage Museum of Hagensborg.
Rip Rap Camp was central to our activities, which included float trips down the Atnarko River, some short hikes, cycling, and sightseeing. The Belarko Wildlife Viewing Platform is operated by the provincial government and provides a safe enclosed platform for viewing grizzlies on the Atnarko. It’s also very close to the starting point for float trips operated by two companies, Tweedsmuir Park Lodge and Kynoch Adventures. Our two float trips were taken with Kynoch Adventures
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Jamie Skinner
The Augsburg Church that was built in 1904.
The platform is commonly used to monitor the grizzlies as well as the impact of human behaviour on the bears. Tour guides carefully follow rules and regulations for the safety of humans and to ensure minimal interference with these amazing animals. The Atnarko in September has a run of pink salmon and the float trip will allow you to enjoy the sights and sounds of the river; salmon leaping into the air with gulls, eagles, and common mergansers feeding on the spent salmon.
The bears frequent the river area during spawning season and can be observed from the Belarko Wildlife Viewing Platform and on the float trip at eye level. Another popular viewing area is Fisheries Pool, which is about a 15-minute drive from Hagensborg towards the Hill. It’s also a provincial government campsite, which offers basic sites for dry camping with an RV, is one of the most popular spots for fishing in the area, and is the “pullout” for float trips. You can expect to see grizzlies in the river and on the bank. Most campers we met were photographers who had a very successful photo adventure without leaving the campground.
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Tom Skinner
The Belarko Wildlife Viewing Platform.
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Tom Skinner
The old cabin on Highway 20 that was featured in the 2008 movie “The Incredible Hulk”
Additional activities in Bella Coola include a visit to the town site and keeping an eye out for local indigenous art. Snootli Regional Park is a 10.5 km (6.5 mi) drive east from Bella Coola and features trails to an ancient grove with culturally modified cedar trees. You can observe scars in the trees after planks were cut and split. A trip to Clayton Falls is a must, and if you happen to visit between late July and September you should be able to observe both pink and chum salmon spawning. The falls are on one side of the road and a recreation site is located on the other with picnic tables, outhouses, and a small beach.
Other great activities that you can choose from include sea kayaking, daily tours of the old Talheo Cannery, which operated from 1917 to 1947, saltwater angling, and other day trips, all available from the government wharf.
Bella Coola is a fresh- and salt-water outdoor experience eagerly awaiting your arrival. Once you’ve visited, you’ll soon be planning your return trip.
Tom Skinner