Florida’s Unforgettable Forgotten Coast

An area of the Sunshine Coast’s Panhandle that’s ready to serve Canadian snowbirds.

by

Story and Photos by Kathleen Walls

It's called ‘The Forgotten Coast’ but once you visit, chances are likely you won’t forget it, and it just may become part of your scheduled snowbird adventures throughout the winter. 

Located in Franklin County and Northern Florida’s Big Bend region, the Forgotten Coast is appropriately named as it’s one of the last of preserved Gulf Coast beaches that haven’t been overdeveloped. But what makes this area of The Panhandle so significant is that all of the communities (including Carrabelle, Eastpoint, Apalachicola, and St George Island with a number of rural towns in between), share 322 km (200 mi) of uncrowded, white sand beaches, welcoming RV parks, and little traffic and congestion, which combine to provide a relaxing and undisturbed destination vacation. 

While cooler than other regions in Florida, snow or frigid temps are rarely experienced as are touristy theme parks, grandiose wildlife attractions, and beaches lined with high-rise condos. A drive along U.S. Route 98, which is known as the Big Bend Scenic Byway, will reveal ‘an entirely different Florida’ compared to the more commercial hot spots to the south.

What’s more, historical and natural attractions abound throughout The Forgotten Coast and regardless of which community you visit, chances are likely you’ll return to at least a few of them as each caters to a variety of activities and interests throughout the year. 

Carrabelle

A popular attraction in this community is the Carrabelle Riverwalk and Wharf/Marine St. Pavilion that has the authenticity of a true Florida waterfront. This is where you can relax with a quick lunch under the pier’s pavilion or enjoy recreational fishing and boating. The boardwalk is handicap-accessible and there are concrete boat launches to launch a variety of models and sizes. 

Across from the scenic riverwalk, you can discover some history of the area at the Carrabelle History Museum. Located in the original Marvin Justiss-built City Hall, memorabilia and local artifacts reveal stories about Carrabelle's First People, its days as a fishing port, the hurricanes that struck the community over the years, and more. 

Nearby is ‘The World's Smallest Police Station,’ a popular tourist attraction that’s becoming a great location for selfies (followed by the inevitable social media post).  It has been featured on television series including Real People, Ripley's Believe It or Not, and even The Today Show. The idea of using a telephone booth as a police station in the late 1960s came about since the local police force had to use a public phone to field calls. The areas’ finest were tired of getting drenched when it rained and people were also sneaking long-distance calls. The phone booth helped with the rainy weather calls but still didn't stop the illegal calling.

West of town, the Crooked River Lighthouse, which was built in 1895, is hard to miss and stands guard over Carrabelle Beach, one of Florida's most pristine beaches. During its construction, the lighthouse was built with steel beams rather than the conventional round masonry and inside the keeper's house are a museum and gift shop. Climbs to the top are also permitted for more adventurous visitors during ideal weather conditions.

Located in the shadow of the lighthouse at Carrabelle Beach, you’ll also want to visit the Camp Gordon Johnston Museum, which retells the story of the amphibious assault forces during World War II. Created to honour the heritage of the approximate 250,000 men and women who trained here, the museum showcases photographs, memorabilia, uniforms and equipment of the era.

While motoring along  U.S. Route 98, you can't miss signs to Tate's Hell State Forest, a pristine nature preserve between Carrabelle and the Apalachicola National Forest, which consists of 58,480 ha (144,508 ac) of untamed woodland and wetlands that’s inhabited by wildlife such as the Florida back bear, deer, wild turkey, snakes, and a variety of birds. There are hiking trails but perhaps paddle some areas of the 56 km (35 mi) of rivers, streams and creeks, which are great for fishing and observing wildlife. Primitive camping is also available.

Of special note, Tate's Hell and the Apalachicola National Forest is a haven for birders. If you're lucky, you may spot a bald eagle or Red-Cockaded Woodpecker. Approximately 16 km (about 10 mi) to the west is one other natural attraction, the Ralph G. Kendrick Dwarf Cypress Boardwalk where you can observe an unusual stand of dwarf bald cypress trees that are centuries-old.  

Should you decide to stay for a while, a variety of RV parks are located in and around Carrabelle. To start with, there’s the amenity-rich Carrabelle Beach RV Resort, located just across the highway from Carrabelle Beach. This is a big-rig-friendly park and each site features full hook-ups, 30/50 amp power, and WiFi/cable. Oceanview beach lofts, resort cottages, and cabins are also available to rent. 

Closer to Carrabelle, about .6 km (1 mi) from the beach, is Sunset Isle RV & Yacht, which also has full hook-ups, 30/50 amp electric (30-amp requires an adapter) plus boat slips (only available with a reserved site), fishing docks, a screened-in ‘cooking shack’ and more. At the east of Carrabelle is Ho-Hum RV Park located right on the water and ocean-front sites are available. 

Of course, these parks are nearby to a variety of dining options for every preference and budget. Carrabelle Junction is a popular go-to spot for breakfast or a light lunch. If waterfront dining is preferred, try the rustic and casual Fathoms Steam & Raw Bar. It has a wide choice of seafood dishes ranging from clams, mussels and scallops to grouper and Ahi Tuna. Following dinner, a popular nightspot to check out is Harry’s Bar with its casual Key West-style atmosphere.

Or try the Crooked River Grill at the St. James Bay Golf Resort. It has a fine dining atmosphere  and is a good choice with its excellent menu consisting of freshly caught seafood, steaks and more.

Eastpoint

Driving west on U.S. Route 98, the next popular stop is Eastpoint. Kids and adults alike will appreciate the Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve Nature Center that lends insight about the ecology of Apalachicola Bay. The aquarium showcases exhibits about the habitats in the reserve, river, bay and Gulf. 

For lunch or dinner, stop at The Red Pirate Family Grill and Oyster Bar with its excellent menu and/or to play mini-golf. Be sure to try the local oysters as Apalachicola Oysters are considered to be some of the best in the world.

To stop for the night or even spend a few days, Coastline RV Resort is located on U.S. Route 98 and is pet-friendly with spacious sites that can accommodate RVs up to 14 m (45 ft). All sites  feature brick and paver patios,  picnic tables, grills, 20/30/50 amp service, and Wi-Fi/cable. All sites also have great views of the bay.

Apalachicola

A large part of downtown Apalachicola is a historic district and among the stately Victorian and Antebellum homes are museums that depict the area’s history. An insightful attraction is the Raney House Museum, which was built in 1838 by David G. Raney who became prosperous in the cotton trade and served two terms as mayor. It’s operated by the Apalachicola Area Historical Society and currently exhibits period furniture, as well as documents and artifacts of the 19th century before the Civil War.  Admission is free, but donations are always welcome.

Another attraction is the Orman House Museum, located on the Apalachicola River. This is a state park, has a $2 admission fee and its founder, Thomas Orman, was also a cotton merchant. The grounds include Chapman Botanical Gardens with a beautiful butterfly garden and a bronze replica of the Vietnam memorial statue in Washington, D.C., ‘Three Soldiers Detail.’ 

There’s also John Gorrie Museum State Park. In efforts to keep rooms of his patients with yellow fever cool in the 1800s, Dr. John Gorrie invented a mechanism to produce ice and in 1851, patented the first method of refrigeration in the U.S., which is known today as air conditioning. (*Ed note: at the time of publication the grounds of the park were open, but the museum was closed. Be sure to check hours before visiting.) 

Apalachicola offers more than just historical sites. Its downtown district also has upscale shopping and dining with many boutiques and well-known restaurants. For example, the elegant Gibson Inn, which was built by James Fulton Buck in 1907, will provide a nice retreat from the campgrounds with its newly renovated rooms and upscale restaurant - The Franklin Café - that serves fusion cuisine with a southern flair and of course, fresh oysters. 

St. George Island 

You’ll want to take a detour from the U.S. Route 98 to visit this barrier island. Standing dominantly at its centre is the 23 m (72 ft) Cape St. George Light. Weathered by many hurricanes and coastal storms, the lighthouse has been restored and there’s access to the top via 92 wooden spiral stairs and an eight-rung metal ladder. 

Most of the island consists of St. George Island State Park. The undeveloped beach is popular and transforms many visitors into avid shell collectors. On the gulf side of the island are kilometres of sugary white sand beaches and it’s common to see dolphins slipping above and below the water’s surface. On the bay side are marshes filled with wading birds while inland are nature trails winding through scrubs and pine forests. This is also a birdwatcher's haven where you can spot snowy plovers, least terns, black skimmers, willets, pelicans, gulls, red-cockaded woodpeckers and bald eagles. 

The park even has many picnic shelters, two boat ramps, and 60 campsites with power and water that can accommodate RVs up to 13 m (43 ft). Other amenities include hot showers, a playground, and dump station. 

While there’s more to explore in this area if you continue on U.S. Route 98 between The Forgotten Coast and Pensacola (and beyond), the region will not only provide a great extended destination, but it’s the perfect home base to see everything this area of the Sunshine State has to offer. 

www.floridasforgottencoast.com 

Due to Covid-19 restrictions and precautions be sure to check with local businesses, RV parks, and the Franklin County Tourist Development Council about closures and/or modified operational hours before your visit.