Escape into Northeastern Ontario – Part I

A first look at the series of scenic communities that offer a mix of beauty, peacefulness, and adventure that can all be enjoyed by RV.

by

Words by Steve Fennell

Travelling north as the crow flies on Hwy 11 is when you’ll begin to feel its magnetism. The towering dense forest tapers down to parts of the Canadian Shield that rests just beside the road, forming a partial corridor of rock that has been standing for millions of years. It’s the faithful call of a loon and the stunning sunset that simmers for hours that really grabs your attention – and keeps it for as long as you’re among its majestic surroundings. This is Northeastern Ontario.

A journey through this region is an interesting one. Situated along the Quebec border to the east, with charming communities, sprawling lakes, and captivating landscapes to the north and west, the entire area spans nearly 300,000 sq km (115,830 sq mi). To see as much as four wheels will allow, many RVers travel what is known as The Prospector Route, a 1,600 km (994 mi) round trip that can begin when you merge from Hwy 400 N onto Hwy 11 N, which leads 600 km to Cochrane. The route heads west and then it’s on to Hwy 655 south to Timmins. You’ll then motor along rural byways southbound before connecting to Hwy 69 and Hwy 400.

This is a route that many RVers call home for a week or longer, but the communities can be enjoyed any time. The former is something you may want to consider given you could easily spend three or four days just exploring Algonquin Park, fishing Lake Temiskaming, or visiting former mines, museums, and other natural attractions in the scattered towns along the way.

To simplify your RV itinerary, listed below is a snapshot of the several Northeastern Ontario communities that are worth visiting whether you take a week, weekend, or just a few days. Whichever you choose, you’ll be sure to plan a return trip to see what else you can discover in this beautiful, majestic region of Ontario.

Bracebridge, Huntsville, and Algonquin Park

After rounding Lake Simcoe just past Barrie and merging onto Hwy 11, you’ll be entering the classic cottage country of the Muskoka Lakes region. Gravenhurst and Bracebridge are just two of the great communities in the area and are the closest to Lake Muskoka off Hwy 11. Further north is Huntsville. Golfing is popular and as is Arrowhead Provincial Park with its spacious, tree-lined, campsites access to many outdoor activities.

Just east of Huntsville is Algonquin Park, located on the exterior edge of the Canadian Shield. This famed park spans an area of nearly 8,000 km (3,000 mi), has five campgrounds (all located along Hwy 60), and more than a dozen interpretive hiking trails. If you want to escape the RV and go backpacking or portaging for a few days this is definitely the place to do it with its unmatched scenery.

North Bay, Marten River, and Temagami

Once Huntsville is in the rear-view mirror, the dense forest begins to hug the highway that conceals the variety of tiny communities on route to North Bay, 128 km (80 mi) away.

Once you arrive in North Bay, perhaps consider a side trip through the Ottawa Valley via Hwy 17. You’ll discover many scenic communities such as Mattawa, Petawawa, Renfrew, and Arnprior, or perhaps visit the nation’s capital of Ottawa with its excellent museums and attractions. You may want to take your time – the entire route is a beautiful one. (*Ed note: As an alternate route, many RVers choose to motor eastbound on Hwy 401 along Lake Ontario and then travel north to Ottawa on Hwy 417, followed by a run through the Ottawa Valley and onto North Bay).

But if you decide to stay in North Bay and continue on you won’t be disappointed either. Known as “the gateway to the north,” North Bay has many things to do and see and one highlight is its downtown waterfront on the shore of Lake Nipissing. The kids will love the Heritage Carousel, new Winter Wonderland Carousel, and a miniature Heritage Railway, while everyone will like Marathon Beach with its cool, refreshing waters.

To gain a better sense of the city, pull the bikes off the rack or put on the inline skates and hit ‘Kate Pace Way,’ a 12 km (7.5 mi) pathway that honours the successes of Olympic skier and local resident Kate Pace. It leads along the waterfront, through a variety of green spaces, and past streams, parks, and residential areas. Or, if your itinerary allows it, experience the region from the water and take a five-hour cruise aboard the Chief Commanda II, which sails from Lake Nipissing to the beautiful French River.

There are a variety of RV parks along Lake Nipissing and the smaller, neighbouring Trout Lake, but plan a few nights in Marten River Provincial Park, 60 km (37 mi) to the north. At 400 ha (988 ac), the park is considered the ‘southern gateway to Temagami.’ RV-friendly with many services, it encompasses three natural sand beaches and excellent swimming. There’s also an insightful replica 19th century logging camp.

You can further explore the area by kayaking along the shores of the Marten River or hiking the 5 km (3 mi) Transition Trail, which leads through mature pine stands and Black Spruce bogs. Fishing is another popular pastime, and the river is known for its northern pike, smallmouth bass, walleye, and yellow perch.

Southwest of the village of Temagami is Finlayson Point Provincial Park, which is the epitome of outdoor adventure. RV camping is available with power, water, shower facilities, and flush toilets, and there’s access to Lake Temagami, which has been capturing the hearts of outdoor enthusiasts for centuries. Its shoreline spans an estimated 5,000 km (3,106 mi) – most of it is lined with old-growth pine forests – and is 45 km long (28 mi) (north to south), 35 km (22 mi) wide (east to west) and has approximately 1,200 islands.

This is a destination all its own and worthy of extensive day trips kayaking, canoeing, boating, and of course, fishing, which offers some of the best action in Ontario. The hike to Caribou Mountain Lookout and fire tower is also enjoyable.

Latchford, Cobalt and Temiskaming Shores

Once past the rural lumbering community of Latchford, veering off Hwy 11 to Hwy 118 eastbound leads to the community of Cobalt, which, in the early 1900s, was one of the largest producers of silver in the world.

It’s known as the ‘birthplace of Canadian hard rock mining due to the innovative mining technology developed at the time. When the silver ran dry, Cobalt went into decline, and today, it’s an acclaimed National Historic Site. The town’s rich mining history can be re-discovered at the Cobalt Mining Museum and the Heritage Silver Trail that leads to the Cobalt Mine as well as 20 other locations with interpretive plaques.

Formerly known as the Town of Haileybury, New Liskeard and the Township of Dymond, Temiskaming Shores and Lake Temiskaming is another haven for outdoor adventure. The region is considered a fertile ‘little clay belt’ in the deepest rift valley of eastern Canada, which in turn, produces high-quality dairy, beef, and cash crops. These fresh farm staples can be found and savoured in local artisan food stores and a variety of local restaurants and resorts.

The big natural attraction here is Lake Temiskaming. It has a maximum length of 110 km (68 mi) and a surface area of 295 sq km (114 sq mi), making it ideal for recreational boating, canoeing, and kayaking. If you’re a keen paddler, be sure to stay close to its shoreline as the wind can kick up on the open water. Nonetheless, it’ll be a journey you’ll cherish. The excellent fishing in Northeastern Ontario continues here and come prepared to catch walleye, northern pike, lake trout, muskellunge, and smallmouth bass.

Also make a point to see Devil's Rock, a 150 m (490 ft ), 2.2-million-year-old fault cliff that rises from the water on the west side of Lake Temiskaming near Haileybury. It’s accessible by car and a short hike (as well as the water) and is popular among rock climbers and bird watchers.

Two popular camping options in the area include the full-service Bucke Park Campground located on Lake Temiskaming (that has a trailhead to Devil's Rock) as well as Kap-Kig-Iwan Provincial Park, just 30 minutes north of Temiskaming Shores.

Kirkland Lake, Iroquois Falls and Cochrane

Few communities can boast that it was built on the mining of gold but Kirkland Lake is one of the exceptions. This is where the term ‘Kirkland Lake Mile of Gold’ was coined as more than half a dozen major mines were located in the town that produced over 700 metric tonnes during the mining boom between the 1920s and 1940s. The town’s riches started with the Toburn Gold Mine and although it closed in the 1950s (as well as others), the increasing price of gold resulted in renewed mining in the area. The historic Toburn Gold Mine still stands and is available for tours. You can also visit The Museum of Northern History at the Sir Harry Oakes Chateau to learn more about the area’s ‘rich’ history.

But present-day Kirkland is just as exciting. The rural roads around the area are great for mountain biking, while canoeing and kayaking are prevalent on many of the local rivers. Campgrounds are located throughout the area and the Esker Lake Provincial Park is popular with its 29 glacier-formed lakes, which are ideal for portaging and hiking. Many of the backcountry lakes are also where you can spot wildlife and fish for trout, northern pike, and yellow perch.

About 100 km (62 mi) north of Kirkland Lake, is Iroquois Falls, located along the Abitibi River. It’s known as the ‘garden town of the north’ and the sprawling flower and vegetable gardens throughout the community are a true testament to this. Some other attractions include Anson Park where you can view the Shay 70 Locomotive and the Pioneer Museum, which beholds many of the area’s artifacts and insightful history.

A variety of campgrounds are scattered throughout the area and more camping is also available at Kettle Lakes Provincial Park that offers many services. With 22 lakes, the park is worth exploring by canoe or kayak and many are stocked with rainbow and brook trout while northern pike and yellow perch are natural inhabitants in select lakes.

From Iroquois Falls, it’s about a 30-minute drive to Cochrane where more adventure awaits. What makes Cochrane unique compared to other communities in Northeastern Ontario is the Cochrane Polar Bear Habitat where three resident polar bears – Henry, Ganuk, and Inukshuk – call home.

With a focus on research, conservation, and education on these beautiful arctic-based animals, the Cochrane Polar Bear Habitat is the only human-care facility in the world that is dedicated entirely to polar bear research. The facility also consists of 7 ha (17 acres) of land and the world’s largest enclosed lake to further study and allow visitors to admire these magnificent creatures in a natural environment. Other attractions to visit include Heritage Village that depicts the history of Cochrane in the early 1900s, as well as the Snowmobile Museum that showcases vintage sleds, archived images, and insightful memorabilia.

Of course, a trip to Cochrane wouldn’t be complete without going to the Tim Horton Museum that commemorates the famed NHL hockey player – and co-founder of Canada’s favourite coffee shop chain – who was born in Cochrane. Admire photos, his hockey jerseys, as well as the 568 pucks that signify the number of points Horton scored throughout his career in the NHL.

The area is also abundant with natural attractions including countless lakes that offer a plethora of outdoor activity and there are a series of comfortable RV parks to camp for a few days. It’s also where Hwy 11 winds west just before you begin the second part of the journey southbound through many more communities of Northeastern Ontario. What’s also interesting is this section of The Prospector Route intersects with many communities – like Sudbury, the French River and Killarney – that are part of the popular ‘Fur Trade Route’ (that follows along the shores of Lake Superior to the north).

Be sure to check out our next issue of Snowbirds and RV Travelers to further discover this famed region of the province.