Dan Goy
Caribbean Camping at Yax-Ha.
Story and Photos by Dan and Lisa Goy
Leaving the Mexican State of Yucatàn, our caravan travelled to Cancun in Quintana Roo, a short drive on Mexico Federal Highway 180, which was just one of the stops on a multi-day RV adventure in the heart of the beautiful Caribbean.
What a lot of people don’t realize is there are two Cancun’s. There’s the tourist Cancun (Hotel Zone) built in the 1970s by FONATUR and the City of Cancun, which supports the tourist zone. Both are located in the Caribbean and are the gateway to warm waters, and white sand beaches that span as far as the eye can see.
Dan Goy
The Trailer Park Mecoloco includes minor remains of the Mayan Ruins.
Like our other travels between destinations, we stopped for fuel and propane before arriving at the Trailer Park Mecoloco, which is near the water and the Isla Mujeres ferry terminal. The RV park, which consisted of clean grounds, had a variety of amenities including water, power, a dump station, WiFi, a pool, showers, and clean washrooms. Cabins are also available to rent and there’s even a small area of preserved Mayan Ruins.
After settling in, the group met for a refreshing ‘happy hour’ at Eileen & Rafael’s – a good thing considering the temperature was about 35°C (95°F) with humidity. But later on, clouds eventually rolled in and cooled conditions down to a balmy 25°C (77°F).
Dan Goy
Some members of our group on the Isla Mujeres-Cancun ferry.
The next morning, we visited the ‘Hotel Zone,’ located on what was once an island with the ocean on one side and a large lagoon full of crocodiles on the other, with limited public beach access. We also made a few other stops so everyone could do some groceries, have lunch, and visit the market.
Over the next few days, we visited the local Mercado and browsed the various vendors, enjoyed some of the restaurants while one of the members of our group, Lisa, was successful in her quest to purchase some local textiles and fabrics. An Agua Purificada (purified water) was also nearby to replenish empty water jugs. Others schedule a time for the local dentist – a popular notion considering fees are a fraction of those in the U.S. Some of the group went a little further and hopped on the ferry to visit Isla Mujeres.
Dan Goy
A great propane and gas station on route to Cancun.
On our final evening in Cancun, the RV park hosted a Mayan Ceremony beside Mike and Kelly’s trailer that started at sunset and ended at sunrise. The drums could be heard well into the early hours. While this was our first visit to Cancun, it’s likely to be our last as there are many other destinations in Mexico that are far more appealing to RVers.
On Sunday morning, we made our way southbound on Mexican Federal Highway 307 to the Mayan Riviera where we had a variety of RV parks to choose from. The first two possible locations had confirmed space for all of the members of the caravan. The Xpu-Ha Campground was $300 pesos per day while the Acamaya Reef Motel/Cabanas & RV Park was $250 pesos per day - unfortunately, neither worked out as they had little space for our group. The other option was Paa Mal RV Park, priced at $850 pesos per day. It was similar to Loreto Shores on the Baja with the focus on permanents and we decided to stay here.
Dan Goy
The RV Baja Amigos at The Paa Mul Trailer Park.
This 200-site park only had only 20 spaces available, and the rest were occupied by full-timers with their RVs nestled among Palapa structures. To maintain the ‘campground’ tax status, it’s required to have RV spaces available for daily use. Not surprisingly, the waterfront was occupied by permanent structures built years ago and the waterfront low-rise hotel was recently added.
Some of the benefits included 30 amp power, the sites were fairly level, a nice beach with water access, a pool, and a restaurant offering good food, cold beer, and the menu items were reasonably priced. The folks were also nice.
Dan Goy
Travelling on Mexico Federal Highway 307 to Chetumal.
One downside, however, is the washrooms were less than desirable. The women’s was closed and the men’s should have been. But the facilities at the pool were much cleaner and accommodating. Dan – one member of our group – used the outside pool shower to wash his hair and soap down (and left his bathing suit on given the onlookers poolside and in the restaurant). Additionally, Wi-Fi was only available for those staying in the hotel or cabanas with no access to transient campers, even for an extra fee.
On our second day at Paa Mal, some in our group went to the beach to the south where they could swim with turtles and sea rays in the seagrass. Dan and Lisa went to the beach on-site with Mike and Kelly, where they enjoyed some swimming and paddle boarding. As the sun was shining most of the time with a slight breeze, it was a very pleasant day.
Dan Goy
Baja Amigos in Chetumal.
Following breakfast the next morning, we drove to Playa del Carmen. This originally was a small fishing town (like Cabo San Lucas) and tourism began with the passenger ferry service to Cozumel, an island across the Cozumel Channel and a world-famous scuba diving and vacation destination. Eileen and Rafael met up with her sister and husband who were on a getaway there, and others browsed the area and took in the sites.
As this was our first visit to Playa de Carman we were keen for a walkabout and check out the town.
Dan Goy
Dan and Lisa at Lake Bacalar.
Plus, we have never been anywhere on the Caribbean coast, so all was new. After walking to Quinta Avenida, which stretches from Calle 1 Norte to Calle 40, we found a small local eatery a few blocks from the tourist zone that was reasonably priced – well under $200 pesos ($10 USD) for two.
To make the most of the last day, many of us went to Tulum, the acclaimed Mayan Archeological site on the Caribbean and one of the “Big 4” (Uxmal, Chichen Itza, Tulum, and Palenque). This pre-Columbian Mayan-walled city is situated on a 12 m (39 ft) cliff along the east coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. Tulum was one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Mayans; it was at its peak between the 13th and 15th centuries and managed to survive about 70 years after the Spanish began occupying Mexico
Dan Goy
The Tulum Archeological site.
Our last stop in the Caribbean was the Yax-Ha Resort just north of Calderitas on Calderitas Bay, which was about a five-hour drive from Paa Mal, and a lot less ‘touristy’ than some other stops on this caravan tour. The city, situated on the western side of Chetumal Bay near the mouth of the Río Hondo, is a port town that operates as Mexico's main trading gateway with neighbouring Belize.
Although Yax-Ha Resort is right on the ocean, there isn’t a sand beach, but there is an abundance of coconut palm trees, plus levelled grass sites, a great inexpensive restaurant, clean shower/ washroom facilities, a pool, Wi-Fi, and laundry; we could even purchase purified water. After we set up our sites, we all met for the now-ritual happy hour and then enjoyed dinner at the on-site restaurant. Afterward, most of the group returned to their sites to catch up on emails with the Wi-Fi service.
Dan Goy
During our first full day at the Yax-Ha Resort, it was windy but Dan and Rafael managed to go kayaking in the ocean lagoon, while the rest of the group lounged in the sun and enjoyed the park’s amenities. Mike decided to install a new slide motor on his trailer, and the women organized our first potluck dinner, which was fantastic.
The following day, we went to Chetumal and the Mercado, which included a scenic ocean drive. The town had wide roads, little traffic, and as a real departure from the larger cities, we had encountered previously on this trip. The Mercado was located close to a Mayan Museo and a variety of restaurants.
As Calderitas was about 30 minutes from the Belize Free Zone, we decided to check it out to do some shopping. Parking at the border and with passports in hand, we went directly to Mexican Immigration Office at its entrance. While it was understood that passports were required to cross the border, the officials also asked us to return our Mexican Tourist permits. Although most in the group had them, they were not willing to give them up. Plus, the Mexican Immigration Officer requested $50 pesos per person as a ‘fee’ to cross the border into Belize. The requirement of re-applying for Mexican Tourist Permits on the southern Mexican border was a ‘no go’ for everyone.
Dan Goy
The waterfront at the Yax-Ha Resort.
Instead, and not to waste a day, we went to Lake Bacalar (aka the lake of seven colours), a shallow body of water with a light-coloured bottom and that changes in colour throughout the day. Some of the highlights here included a swimming dock, restaurant, plus washrooms, and even some vendors.
Returning to Yax-Ha later in the day and being Valentine’s Day, we all went out for a special dinner organized by caravan members Marian and Anita. Thanks to Roland – another member of our group – roses were handed out to the women, which was a nice touch. The restaurant had an oceanside patio and a seafood menu where Dan had a tasty, inexpensive shrimp dish and Lisa ordered an expertly prepared Pescado a La Veracruzana. It was a memorable Valentine’s dinner for all.
As our trip was coming to an end, we would certainly return to the region Calderitas and the Caribbean for further exploration as there is plenty to see and explore to meet a variety of preferences and interests.