Martin Spriggs
Free camping along the Red Deer River.
Words and Photos by Martin Spriggs
It’s no secret that overland enthusiasts love wild country. It’s also no secret that Western Canada has a plethora of opportunities to explore the roads less travelled. British Columbia, Northern Alberta, and the Yukon have some of the best rural roads to explore in Canada. However, one region that’s not particularly known for overlanding - but should be - is Southern Alberta.
Nestled on the outskirts of prairie ranches and Canadian National Parks, the foothills of Southern Alberta encompass spectacular wild country and are littered with double-tracks that cut through the Boreal forest. This article examines three gems that provide excellent opportunities to further explore the natural rugged landscape of Wild Rose country.
Red Deer River Valley
The Red Deer River Valley or Ya Ha Tinda - as it’s known among locals - is a backcountry paradise west of Sundre. Ya Ha Tinda means “mountain prairie” in Stoney-Nakoda of the Northern Plains First Nations people. The area is rich in history as First Nations used the Red Deer River Valley as a major trading route across the continental divide for more than 9,000 years before European settlers arrived.
Martin Spriggs
At the summit of Limestone Mountain.
There are two ways to access the Ya Ha Tinda. The fastest route is to travel directly west from Sundre on Hwy 584, and then drive south on Range Road 63, 64 and 64A as it parallels the winding Red Deer River towards the foothills. Range Road 64A transitions into Township Road 314A and later 312A until you reach a T-junction with Hwy 40. After turning south onto the Forestry Trunk Road/Ya Ha Tinda Road, you have arrived.
The second route to the Red Deer River Valley is travelling north on the Trans-Canada Highway to Hwy 40 at Morley. This is where you can enjoy amazing views until you hit the intersection of Forestry Road/Ya Ha Tinda Road. This gravel road offers plenty of backcountry access even before you reach the Ya Ha Tinda.
Regardless of how you get to Ya Ha Tinda, the region is an overlander’s playground. It consists of gravel roads up mountains to panoramic vistas, including the 12 km (7.5 mi) drive up a shale road on Limestone Mountain with a lookout of the same name. The slow-rolling dual track is where you’ll find secluded free camping sites along the meandering Red Deer River.
Martin Spriggs
Oldman River in Kananaskis Country.
There is much to see in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. The Ya Ha Tinda inhabits wildlife such as grizzly bears, elk, moose, deer, and bighorn sheep. The Ya Ha Tinda Ranch is a working private ranch owned and managed by Parks Canada where horses are trained for horseback duties in the Western Canadian National Parks.
One highlight that’s hard to miss is the Feral horses of Alberta. These lovely creatures roam freely in the area and can be easily spotted during your travels. Some venture onto the gravel roads so take care when rounding corners.
There are also a wide variety of public facilities available for overnight camping including the Wild Horse Group Use Area, Red Deer River Provincial Recreation Area, Burnt Timber Campground and Bighorn Campground at Ya Ha Tinda Ranch. Better yet, some of the best camping is available in the backcountry or free camping along the Red Deer River. The popular iOverlander app highlights a few of the many available locations for boondocking. If you are planning to incorporate other adventures into your overlanding travels, there are a variety of lodges, outfitters and rafting tours available throughout the Red Deer River corridor.
Martin Spriggs
The ascent up Racehorse Pass.
The only challenge of the terrain is the road commonly dips along the dual tracks where vehicles may become bogged down after heavy rainfall so it’s best to have a Hi-lift jack or travel in groups of two or more. To get a better idea of the terrain along the Red Deer River check out this video:
How to Make a Swedish Candle: Roaming Ford Ranger Dec 2020
Eastern Slopes
This region is known as the Eastern Slopes of the Rocky Mountains and is sandwiched between the Trans-Canada Highway to the north and the Crowsnest Highway to the south. This backcountry haven is one hour west of Calgary, runs north to south and is dissected east and west by Hwy 40 (in the north) and 940 (in the south).
Kananaskis Country - or K-Country - constitutes the northern half of the Eastern Slopes. The area, named by John Palliser after an encounter with the Cree First Nation people, takes its name from the Kananaskis River, which flows from the Continental Divide through these foothills of The Rockies. To access K-Country from the north, exit from the Trans-Canada Highway and travel south along Hwy 40.
The Kananaskis offers a wide range of camping opportunities from private and provincial campgrounds with many amenities to free backcountry camping in provincial recreation areas. A detailed map showing trails open to wheeling enthusiasts can be found here. However, free camping in the southern section of the Eastern Slopes is recommended as it’s away from the established campgrounds in the region.
Martin Spriggs
Another day along the Red Deer River. Many off-grid camping opportunities can be experienced.
Further into the southern section of the Eastern Slopes is an overlander’s dream. The southern limit of the Kananaskis is the intersection of Secondary Road 532 and Hwy 940. To access the area, drive south through the Kananaskis on Hwy 40 until it turns into Hwy 940. Or trek north on Hwy 940 from the Crowsnest Highway at Coleman.
The southern part of the Eastern Slopes has provincial recreation areas and campsites and they are less travelled than the northern section. The southern section has excellent backcountry camping available to 4x4 vehicles on Oldman River and a personal favourite is Dutch Creek. This is where you can fish the Oldman River for Bull and Rainbow trout, enjoy the evening as the sun sets over the Continental Divide, and meet other outdoor enthusiasts.
Martin Spriggs
The view from the summit of Limestone Mountain.
Racehorse Pass
Racehorse Pass is an excellent overland mountain drive that crosses the Continental Divide just north of Racehorse Mountain. The dual track trail can be reached from either BC or Alberta and is one of the few mountain passes open for 4x4 vehicles in the Eastern Slopes.
Racehorse Pass begins in the southern section of Eastern Slopes so access begins at the same area for both. Turn north onto Hwy 940 from Hwy 3 in Coleman and follow Hwy 940 for 18 km (11 mi), keeping right at the end of pavement/cattle guard. At 17 km (10.5 mi), the road crosses Racehorse Creek. Turn left at the next side road and you are ready to make the ascent. I recommend arriving and camping overnight somewhere near the base of the pass and summiting the following day.
Martin Spriggs
At the summit of Racehorse Pass
The initial ascent from the Alberta side can be difficult at the base due to seasonal hydro erosion of the dirt dual track. Once over the challenging area, it opens up to a shale road two-thirds up the mountain. It’s bumpy but easy to navigate. When you’re past a Texas gate near the summit, the prize is just around the corner. The total elevation gain for the 28 km (17 mi) round trip is just under 380 m (1,247 ft) and the steepest segment is a 12.6 percent grade. Although a 2WD vehicle with good ground clearance and a skilled driver can make the drive, a 4x4 is recommended.
Camping at the 2,075 m (6,800 ft) summit of Racehorse Pass is an excellent option. There are a few level areas suitable for vehicles with RTTs or truck campers and the view from the summit is spectacular. While at the summit, the Boreal forest gives way to sub-alpine terrain, allowing the possibility to spot the Hoary marmot, sunning themselves on rocks in the summer.
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Martin Spriggs
A variety of wildlife can be viewed at many points along the journey.
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Martin Spriggs
A variety of wildlife can be viewed at many points along the journey.
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Martin Spriggs
A variety of wildlife can be viewed at many points along the journey.
From the summit, you have the option to descend back down the Alberta side or to cross over into BC and drive down into the Elkford Valley. Either way is just as fun! For a complete visual story of Racehorse Pass, and to see the beautiful scenery (and exposure) view my journey below:
Racehorse Pass: Roaming Ford Ranger Aug 2020
Southern Alberta may not have vast areas of Crown Land and endless logging roads to explore but with a little planning, the region has secrets to be unlocked that can be enjoyed by the overlanding community. Remember to leave no trace while exploring Wild Rose Country and always play safe.