Overlanding the Far Reaches of Northern BC

Exploring these rural regions means experiencing a true Canadian off-road trip.

by

Words and photos by Martin Spriggs

The catchphrase for Canada’s westernmost province “Beautiful British Columbia” simply reflects all of its natural landscapes. Along the coast, lush rainforests jet out into the clear blue waters of the Pacific, which form deep fjords of green and teal. Further inland, manicured farms lay nestled between rolling hills and wide river valleys that flow to the ocean. In the interior, never-ending grasslands mix among boreal forests that entice outdoor travellers to explore its inner beauty.

Driving the Trans-Canada Highway through the Rocky Mountains in southern BC, overlanders are rewarded with an abundance of destinations. For me, some of the most extraordinary wheeling trips extend to ‘off the beaten path’ in the northern part of the province. Listed below are three of them that always provide a good, lengthy trip full of adventure.

Atlin

I have travelled to Atlin several times over the years and it’s an excellent trip for overlanders. Tucked away in the northwestern corner of BC, this rural community of 500 residents is located on Taku River Tlingit First Nation on the eastern shore of Atlin Lake.

The only way to access Atlin by road is via the Yukon. Exit the Alaska Highway between Johnson Crossing and Marsh Lake and then travel west on Hwy 8 toward Tagish. Not long after leaving the Alaska Highway is the junction for Atlin. Turn south on Hwy 8 and enjoy the scenic drive into its tiny community. The roads are paved, well maintained and there is a gas station with a small convenience store. You’ll want to keep a keen eye when behind the wheel as I have always seen moose or grizzlies roaming the roads so be sure to proceed with caution.

This once-thriving community was home to more than 8,000 residents when it was an important trading centre for gold prospectors who came to seek their fortunes during the Klondike Gold Rush between 1896 and 1899. Although gold mining remains popular, it’s not as prosperous as it once was. Today, the remains of its Gold Rush days are displayed around the community, including in the 200-year-old Courthouse Gallery, Globe Theatre, and Pioneer Cemetery.

The area is also a tourist destination and haven for outdoor enthusiasts. It’s easy to escape the crowds during the high season with the many routes and activities that can be enjoyed on and around Atlin Lake. Parks are widely available to set up a base camp while days can be spent fishing, canoeing, and kayaking. Most importantly, for off-roaders, forestry and mining roads are accessible to further discover the area.

I find it interesting to always learn about the history of any destinations that I visit in my rig. A trip here wouldn’t be complete without visiting the wooden boats of Atlin Lake, the MV Tarahne and MV Atlinto. The latter, which was launched in 1911, ferried visitors back and forth from the Llewellyn Glacier, as well as hunters to various camps before she was abandoned in the 1950s. It was eventually restored in the 1980s. Close by is the MV Tarahne, a large wooden vessel that first sailed in 1917. Like the Atlinto, the Tarahne ferried sightseers but had a course set around Teresa Island before it was abandoned in 1936. After laying on the shoreline for half a decade, she was finally restored in 1985 by the Atlin Historical Society.

Salmon Glacier

Hidden at the end of the Alaskan Panhandle is Stewart, BC. This sleepy hamlet is located on the traditional hunting and gathering grounds of the Tsetsaut People who were devastated by disease and driven out of the area by the Haida and Nisga’a in the mid-1800s.

Stewart and its sister community of Hyder, AK, boomed when gold and silver were discovered in the area at the end of World War I. It grew to a population of 10,000 yet today the community has less than 500 residents.

This idyllic town at the end of the Portland Canal is accessible only by Hwy 37A, which runs west and then south from Hwy 37 at Meziadin Junction. Hwy 37 - or the Stewart-Cassiar Highway - is a north-south route. While it is remote, it’s mostly paved with a few gravel breaks. Care must be taken as vehicle collisions with bears occur all too frequently.

The last time I drove the Stewart-Cassiar Highway, a friend and I encountered a damaged motorcycle and a severely injured black bear alongside the road. Being pre-hospital healthcare professionals, we quickly made sure the scene was safe (meaning the bear couldn’t move) and found the rider about 30 m (100 ft) from his bike before rendering first aid. Since emergency services were 30 to 60 minutes away, we cleaned the major debris off the road and provided traffic control until they arrived. All in a day’s drive in Northern BC.

Although Stewart is picturesque it’s the gateway to the Salmon Glacier, one of North America’s most stunning and accessible wonders. Located about 25 km (16 mi) due north of Stewart, this is the ultimate overland trip. The gravel road leading the glacier twists and turns around the mountain edges and creeps up in elevation to the glacier viewpoint.

Once at the summit on the gravel road, the view is nothing but stunning. The ice flows westward from the mountain peaks of the Boundary Ranges and bifurcates at the base of the cliff below the viewpoint. It’s one of the many glaciers in the area but it’s the only one with road access to a viewpoint.

After admiring the wonders of the glacier ice, there’s the opportunity to travel off the gravel road and camp near the base. ‘Breathtaking’ and ‘truly spectacular’ don’t describe the true value of this gem. It is well worth the journey. Keep in mind that travelling briefly into Alaska and then back into Canada is required to see the glacier. There isn’t a U.S. border to cross into Hayder, but there is a Canada Border Services Agency to get back into the country so be sure to bring along the passport(s).

On my last trip to Salmon Glacier, my buddy and I ventured off the gravel road at the base of the viewpoint cliff and worked our way to a serene little mountain lake where we spent the night. Once we set up our bivouac, we pulled out our chairs and enjoyed the view with some pints of cold beverages.

Muncho Lake

The last on my list of favourite overland destinations in this part of BC is Muncho Lake (and a provincial park of the same name), a large glacier-fed body of water that runs north-south in the northeastern part of the province. Clear and striking, the lake lies on the traditional lands of the Kaska Dena People and the area surrounding the lake is rich in First Nations’ history and culture.

Driving north on Hwy 97 from Fort Nelson is the southern end of Muncho Lake at Mile 462 on the Alaska Highway, which leads up the entire east side of the lake with several small pull-offs to admire the view.  I have never stayed overnight at Muncho Lake (as I prefer to boondock under the bridge over the Liard River just to the north) but there are two campgrounds, Strawberry Flats Provincial Park in the south and MacDonald campground in the north. Fuel and food are available at the Rockies Northern Lodge, close to the MacDonald campground near the northern end of the lake.

Of course, wildlife is abundant here. Take care while driving as bison and bighorn sheep frequent the area and are often found in the middle of the road licking minerals off the asphalt. These majestic and powerful creatures are best viewed from a distance and are not well suited as hood ornaments!  There is a lot to see and do at Muncho Lake - hike the excellent trails, fish for lake trout or arctic grayling, or pull the kayak off the rack and take in a relaxing paddle.

As with any rural overlanding trip, vehicles must be well-maintained and be sure to bring along a quality spare tire, all the necessary gear, and extra fuel. I would be lying if I said I have never run out of fuel when driving through these scenic areas of Northern BC.