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Story & photos by Dennis Begin
There is a small village just south of Las Cruces, New Mexico and north of El Paso, Texas, that most tourists pass by. Mesilla or the ‘Little Table’ was originally part of the Spanish Imperial Empire, or the Viceroyalty of Nuevo Spain. Using the slogan ‘Gold, Glory and God’, Spain had built an empire that extended north into what we now refer to as the Southern United States. The Franciscan Friars built twenty-six Catholic missions throughout New Mexico, converting the local Apache, Navajo and Pueblo Indians to Christianity and establishing Spanish control.
Mesilla proved to be an ideal location along the Rio Grande River, and connected to the El Camino Real, or Royal Road, running from Mexico City to Santa Fe. In addition to being a major trade and transportation centre, the Mesilla Valley was a rich agricultural area.
Following the Mexican-American War of 1846-48, the Americans established control with the Gadsden Purchase of 1854. The fate of Mesilla was doomed, however, when the Atchison Topeka Santa Fe Railroad bypassed the village in favour of Las Cruces in 1881.
Despite being owned by Spain, Mexico, Texas and now the Americans, Mesilla refused to fade away. Old Mesilla began to renovate, beginning with its church, and by 1982 had become a National Historic Landmark. What attracts tourists to this picturesque and quaint village of 2,000 is Old Mesilla, the heart of the community. It is the Plaza within Old Mesilla that has maintained its historical significance, Hispanic culture and architectural legacy.
When the Spanish initially established a presidio (fort) or pueblo (village), the guidelines on how the settlement was to be laid out were based on the Laws of the Indies (1542). First, the church had to occupy the high ground and be the largest building. Next, there had to be a Plaza or a main square in front of the church. A road encircled the Plaza with shops lining the streets. The shops had to be one story, similar in design and constructed out of adobe. There had to be twelve straight streets built in a rectilinear grid and laid out to take advantage of the prevailing winds. Businesses such as slaughterhouses, fisheries and tanneries that produced ‘filth’ had to be located far away from the church. There had to be a common area for the people to use for recreational activities, yet large enough for cattle to graze. The town had to have two hospitals, one for people with contagious diseases and one for non-contagious patients. This typical Spanish urban design still exists throughout Mexico, California, Arizona, and especially in Albuquerque (La Placita) and Santa Fe (Central Plaza).
On entering the Plaza, the majestic San Albino Church, or Basilica, quickly grabs your attention. Situated around the Plaza are antique shops, boutiques, galleries, restaurants, jewelry shops, wine tasting venues, and clothing stores. Many of the buildings are originals, others have been rebuilt. Some of the buildings are famous, such as the old courthouse where outlaw Billy the Kid went on trial and was sentenced to hang. Other notable buildings include the former office of the Butterfield Stagecoach, which is now the first class La Posta Restaurant. The array of businesses include the Mesilla Valley Store, Fine Arts Gallery, My Rich Sister’s Closet, The Chocolate Lady, El Patio Cantina and many more. The Fountain Theater remains the oldest movie theatre in New Mexico and home to the Mesilla Valley Film Society. As for the Plaza itself, the gazebo takes centre stage with historical plaques describing the colourful past of Mesilla, such as serving as the capital of the Confederate Territory during the American Civil War.
Visiting Mesilla in the fall, festivals dominate the Plaza, with the Diez Seis de Septiembre Fiesta (Mexican Independence Day), the Mesilla Valley Corn Fiesta, the Mesilla Jazz Fiesta and the Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead. One of the biggest celebrations in May is the Cinco de Mayo Fiesta, celebrating a Mexican victory over the French in 1862. On Christmas Eve, the Plaza is lined with special luminarios (lights), a custom of New Mexico.
Regardless of when you visit Mesilla, it is enjoyable to walk around the Plaza, visit the church, relax in the gazebo and visit the Gadsden Museums. Mesilla is a wonderful blend of Indian, Hispanic, Mexican and American cultures. If New Mexico is the ‘Land of Enchantment’, then the Mesilla Plaza is a delightful example.