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By David Wei & Suzanne Clouthier
Relative to the calm water right beside our Boston Whaler, we seemed to be barely moving. But looks were deceiving: the fast-moving ebb tide had whisked us from the open waters of Georgia Strait, well south of Cape Mudge, into the more constricted waters of Discovery Passage between Quadra and Vancouver islands in no time at all.
Over 60 m (200 ft) below, a sharp tug on my fishing line popped it free of the tightly tensioned downrigger clip. While we had had hits all along this trolling beat, the fish on the end of my line was one of the few able to power away strongly against the tight drag on my Islander reel.
The fish came up from the depths quickly, but never jumped. A good sign; I had probably hooked a fine-eating feeder chinook and, from its first authoritative runs, one of a good size too.
Our guide, Max Skaaravik, watched the tip on my fishing rod intently. Any time he saw it straightening out and heard me winding furiously, he sped up our boat to help me maintain tension on the line and keep the barbless hooks buried in the salmon’s jaw. While my fish fought hard, the constant pressure soon slowed and shortened its runs. Still, my heart was in my throat as the silvery prize made several violent, side-to-side head-thrashes just before I reeled it into Max’s waiting net.
Oak Bay Marine Group’s April Point Resort on Quadra Island sits on a promontory at the mouth of Gowlland Harbour, overlooking Discovery Passage. The resort is just a short, free water-taxi ride across the passage from its sister lodge, Painter’s, in Campbell River on Vancouver Island.
It’s always a difficult choice between the two lodges. While we like Painter’s Lodge for its proximity to the many activities and attractions of bustling Campbell River, we decided on the smaller, more intimate April Point for its quieter setting, and individual seaside cabins with real peace and privacy. As it turned out, we were in Cabin 23 – otherwise known as the “Honeymoon Suite” – at the secluded southern end of the property. All of April Point’s rooms and cabins are comfortably appointed, but our particular suite had a number of special features like hardwood floors, separate living- and bedrooms, a two-person Jacuzzi, and even an eight-person outdoor hot tub on the wrap-around deck. As well, we had a spectacular view of Discovery Passage, with all its busy marine activity.
The resort offers a variety of activities that are perfectly matched to the quieter nature of Quadra Island. With very little traffic, guests can rent mountain bikes or motorized scooters to go Cape Mudge and see the oft-photographed lighthouse; learn about the We Wai Kai Nation’s culture and history at the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre; or search out ancient petroglyphs along the rocky shore. There are also kayaks available for exploring the calm, protected waters of Gowlland Harbour. Don’t be surprised if a friendly seal swims right up. With B.C. Ferries service from Campbell River, you can also bring your car to explore even more of the island. Watch a glorious sunset as you stroll Rebecca Spit; visit some of Quadra’s many artists’ studios; or, at low tide, maybe even spot a First Nations clam garden along one of the northern beaches. And to really feel the stress melt away, chill out with a massage at the resort’s Aveda Spa while watching majestic cruise ships wending their way toward Alaska through Discovery Passage.
If you’re looking for excitement, of course, book a fishing trip. Campbell River has good reason to be called the “Salmon Capital of the World.” As Dwayne Mustard, the resort’s Marine Activities Manager, puts it, “As a fishing destination, Campbell River is world-class … as good as more remote destinations. You don’t have to travel far, or spend thousands of dollars, to find good fishing – and you can bring the whole family.”
Hard-core anglers can book all-day charters, long enough to reach more remote fishing hot spots like Denham Bay and Chatham or Hall points. However, as Dwayne points out, opting for one of the four-hour fishing sessions or “tides” – offered three times a day – seems about right for most guests. Popular and productive fishing hot spots have local names like The Hump, Green Can, The Lighthouse, The Deep, and The Abyss. All these spots (off the southern end of Quadra) are only about 20 minutes from the dock.
At The Deep, Max Skaaravik put our flasher with hoochie lures down to 80 m (275 ft), where his depth sounder had indicated a thick band of bait. With the ebbing tide, each trolling pass would take us past The Hump and The Lighthouse as well. We didn’t need to wait long for strikes, as willing feeder chinook smacked Max’s offerings. While most of the fish we hit were just under the legal size limit, we were surprised at the number of fish we hooked, and were impressed at how hard they fought.
Around us, we saw many other anglers with their fishing rods bent over as well. It was only mid-June, with the best months of fishing still to come, yet we had played over a dozen fish, including a couple of double-headers. Dwayne Mustard was right: the fishing is great in the Campbell River area…anytime!
Getting There
From the B.C. Ferries terminal in Nanaimo, it’s about 160 kilometres to Campbell River via Highway 19 north, a 10-minute ferry ride on to Quadra, then a 10-minute drive to the resort. During the summer, since ferries from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo can fill during every sailing, it’s advisable to make a reservation online at www.bcferries.com or by calling toll-free at 1-888-223-3779.
You can reach the reservations desk at April Point Resort & Spa at 1-800-663-7090, or visit them online at www.aprilpoint.com/reservations.