Non-Winch Recovery – A Guide to Safety, Tools and Tactics

by

Words by Peter Boyer

Not to be the bearer of negative news, but if you regularly challenge the trails sooner or later you’ll get stuck in the mud, sand, and rocks or encounter someone who has.

Assisting fellow wheelers is a creed among the off-road community. Short of always running challenging trails - where the risks of getting stuck increase - it’s likely your 4x4 is not rigged with a winch (yet). Even if you have one, it isn’t always necessary to use it in every tough circumstance.

There’s no substitute for experience when it comes to recovering a vehicle. Sometimes being prepared or methodical in advance can help you avoid mistakes while other times the process is simple and intuitive. Gaining ‘trail-cred’ the hard way makes for great stories (or even bragging rights) but it’s not the best or safest way to learn. More often than not, the skills needed to free a vehicle are developed over time after a number of successful recoveries.

Safety is Always First

Every recovery is unique and potentially risky. If you’re the ‘point person’ when freeing a stuck vehicle, you are responsible for ensuring the safety of other members in your group while making efforts to minimize damage to the vehicle and trail in the process. Tread lightly. Be thoughtful.

When pulling out your gear before a recovery here are some tips to remember:

  • Only use bow shackles on rated recovery points and never use them to connect other kinetic ropes or straps.
  • Always know the rating system on shackles, snatch blocks, ropes and recovery points and adhere to the manufacturer’s guidelines.
  • Avoid rigging a hard shackle on the end of a kinetic rope or strap as it could potentially create a dangerous projectile if it snaps.

A lot of recovery gear is only as strong as the weakest link and knowing where that link is ensures the equipment will perform as intended. One tool that should be in every kit is a line damper, designed to absorb some of the recoil should a strap suddenly snap during recovery, thus preventing fatal flying debris.

Non-winch recovery isn’t exactly rocket science, but it’s still essentially ‘a science’ and thinking methodically before putting your plan into action is the best means of pulling a vehicle free. Remember, if the first attempt isn’t successful, you can always try something else. There isn't a second chance for someone who gets injured or if a vehicle is severely damaged.

Essential Tools at a Glance

To start with, keep your recovery gear secured in one dedicated location in your vehicle or in a kit where it’s ready at a moment’s notice. The last thing you want to do is go hunting for a specific tool or shackle when your rig is on a steep angle or stuck in two feet of mud. To easily bring along cumbersome items like traction boards, shovels, or Hi-Lift-style jacks, a variety of roof racks and/or specific aftermarket mounting systems are widely available.

Having your gear secured in one area also ensures safety. I once assisted the recovery of a Suburban that skidded off of an icy road near Kluane National Park and Reserve in the Yukon. The vehicle slid down a steep embankment onto frozen Kluane Lake. Although the Suburban was a write-off, it didn’t go through the ice and everyone survived. However, they did sustain some serious injuries from the loose gear that flew around inside the vehicle when it was out of control.

The following is a list of recovery gear I always bring along on any wheeling trip. Although I don’t always need it, preparation is key to any successful recovery.

Ropes and Straps: One of the most important tools to have is a kinetic energy recovery rope (KERR). I prefer a recovery rope over a strap since it has greater stretch. The one I use has a length of 9 m (30 ft) that provides more elasticity. If your 4x4 gets really stuck, combining two ropes produces a soft, powerful pull that’s more efficient than increasing vehicle speed.

Jacks: I use a hydraulic jack rather than a Hi-Lift-style system as it’s more compact and easier to travel with. Plus, it doesn’t have a mechanical mechanism, which makes it inherently safer.

Jacks like those made by Hi-Lift Jack Co. or ARB are also great choices. While they can be used for a variety of applications, it’s primary use off-road is to winch a vehicle free using a strap or to raise the chassis when it’s centred over rocks or stumps. Remember, it’s always best to strap the axle to the chassis at ride height to prevent the chassis from ‘drooping’ and effectively raise the tire. Regardless of the style you choose, make sure it has a strong, secure base plate for best results on soft terrain.

Shovels and Traction Boards: Shovels are a common tool and there are a lot of choices available. I use a model called the Zombie Killer, which is sturdy with a hardwood handle, serrated edge and sheath for safe storage. Another effective tool is a set of traction boards as they can be used during self-recovery and in concert with other gear such as kinetic ropes and winches.

Air Compressor: Airing down your tires is just one of the effective processes to free a vehicle and a good-quality air compressor has many benefits when you need to reinflate them.

Two styles are available - portable and onboard - and regardless of the model, it must have sufficient power to inflate the size of your tires and meet your specific needs.  The difference? In simple terms, onboard compressors mount in the engine bay (or another accessible space in your vehicle) and are wired to the battery, making them ready to use at a moment’s notice. Although they can inflate a wider range of tire sizes, they can also power the pneumatic control for air-lockers on differentials and larger models can be used for air tools such as impact wrenches.

Portable air compressors are less expensive, but a good quality unit is just as effective as an onboard system. They can also mount to the battery (and smaller units can plug into 12 V outlets), provide more flexibility without over-stretching the hose, be moved from vehicle to vehicle and are relatively compact for easy storage. Viair, ARB, and Smittybilt offer a variety of models to consider.

Tactics

If you drive a late model 4X4 with an electronic traction control system, a locking differential or limited-slip differential, you need to know how they work to avoid making a bad situation even worse. Losing traction is one thing, but getting deep into the earth is another.

On most trail surfaces slow and steady wins the race, even if a little extra momentum is occasionally needed. For example, to recover in relentless sand, it’s easier to break free while going in reverse and retracing the track you left behind. Depending on the situation, the same process can be applied when you’re stuck in the mud.

Old lake beds or recently dried-up wetlands also present challenges so proceed with caution if you encounter these conditions. Should your vehicle break through the dry surface layer into the fine silty mud beneath it, the peanut butter-like consistency of the mud can stick to every component in the undercarriage, making recovery extremely difficult. Even drive shafts will struggle. Again, airing down is always a method to practise and if that doesn’t work, resort to another means of recovery.

Conclusion

Is a winch nice to have? You bet. But is it necessary? No, with the proper preparation, appropriate gear, and knowledge. Even recovery during solo trips can be managed with the right know-how and common sense. This is the time of year to take inventory of your equipment and replace the necessary gear. Better yet, if you’re unsure of best recovery practices, enroll in a course in your local area. Many are available through associations and clubs to ensure you’re ready when the trails challenge your resourcefulness.