Sam O'Neil
The waterfront of Port Townsend.
Words by Scott Wilson
Victorian Port Townsend is a totally unique stop for boaters who seek not just full services, but an eclectic mix of arts, culture, history, family-sized commerce, and great eateries.
In fact, Port Townsend’s economy remains almost entirely locally owned. There are almost no “big box” stores, except for the fully-stocked Safeway a block from the Boat Haven Marina. Instead, in almost all of the stores that pack historic Water Street, you will be waited upon by the owner and the setting has no peer – the century-old buildings seem to have emerged intact from another era.
However, this shore side community is not overly precious. You’ll still be able to find what you need. Jam-packed marine supply stores are near the waterfront, and the Port of Port Townsend encompasses the best marine trade craftspeople in the Pacific Northwest. A family-owned hardware and housewares store is easily accessible, and the dozens of eclectic shops that line Water Street are experts in the art of surprising and delighting those who wander the sidewalk.
John Lloyd
Its downtown district is a shopper’s delight.
While Port Townsend’s history remains alive in its architecture, the reason it was once a booming settlement remains important to boaters today. It’s almost exactly halfway between Victoria, BC and Seattle, WA, and once served as an inland sea transportation hub. It’s also known for its reliable sailing breezes and as a gateway to the San Juan Islands. Port Townsend Bay remains a hot spot for Dungeness crab, and the nearby Midchannel Bank is still reliable for salmon fisherman.
Even as a smaller city with a population of 9,000, it draws a sophisticated level of arts and entertainment throughout the year. This is because it’s home to the Centrum, a non-profit arts foundation that attracts world-class musical and literary talent. Port Townsend also has rich local night-life, with great restaurants, entertainment, live theatre, charming movie houses and notable art galleries scattered among the eclectic shops of the downtown area. Again, almost all are locally and proudly owned.
John Noonan
Whale watching is an exciting pastime – from a charter or from the deck of your own boat.
Boaters’ paradise
For boaters, Port Townsend is especially unique. The annual Wooden Boat Festival is a mecca for those interested in traditional boats. It’s held from Sept. 11 to 13, 2020 and will again take over the charming Point Hudson Marina at one end of Water Street. The Festival’s operator, the Northwest Maritime Center, is active all year offering workshops and boat-building venues. The NWMC also manages wild events like the human- and wind-powered Race2Alaska. It launches next on June 8, 2020. Visit www.nwmaritime.org for all the details.
At the other end of town is the Port of Port Townsend fully equipped Boat Haven. Its marine trade’s workforce is second to none in the Northwest. Visit the Marine Trades Association website for professional options at www.ptmta.org
Pet friendly Port Townsend beach.
The Port of Port Townsend also has haul outs up to 300 tons and includes a fuel dock, laundromat, showers, a dump station, marine parts, a Coast Guard station, nearby restaurants and grocery stores – all within a half-mile of historic downtown.
Both the smaller Point Hudson Marina and the larger Boat Haven offer transient slips with water and power. Both also have staff on-site.
For more information, visit www.portofpt.com, or call (800) 228-2803. The Port monitors VHF Channel 66A.
Virginia Hill
Cafes and shops provide the perfect break from the water.
COMING PLAN FOR SUMMER EVENTS
Boaters may want to time their visits around frequent festivals and special events. Among them:
- The Centrum’s week-long festivals of Fiddle Tunes, Acoustic Blues, Jazz, Chamber Music, Ukulele, Voiceworks and Literary Arts take place throughout the summer. www.centrum.org
- The Port Townsend Film Festival takes over downtown with several venues for eclectic films. Plan this year for September 24 to 27. www.ptfilmfest.com
- Port Townsend Farmers Market. This is one of the best in the Northwest and is held every Saturday (except in winter) in the Uptown District. It features the fresh food raised by the region’s artisan farmers, along with hand-crafted goods. www.jcfmarkets.org
- Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Sculpture Race. Entrants compete for the checkered flag with human-powered machines that must master water, mud and steep hills. It’s held the first week of October. www.ptkineticrace.org
- Rhodendron Festival & Parade. This is a great small-town celebration that’s held the third week of May 2020.
- Brass Screw Confederacy and Steampunk Hootenanny comes in June with many unique activities, live entertainment, and more.
- Concerts at the Dock is a regular event downtown every Thursday evening during the warm months.
However, if quieter pursuits are your preference, Port Townsend presents miles of bicycle trails (bike rental shops are in the downtown), an endless coastline for kayaking (kayak rentals are also available), and historic architecture everywhere for walking tours.
By sea or by land, Port Townsend awaits you. Don’t miss it.