The Maritime Community of Port Townsend

With its rich history, this region of Puget Sound has welcoming marinas and many services.

by

Words by Steve Fennell

Port Townsend has an insightful history that dates back to the mid-1800s and today, this shoreside community at the south end of the San Juans, just adjacent to Whidbey Island, serves all kinds of recreational boaters. Welcoming marinas dot its shore, insightful shops line the downtown district, and dining options and accommodations offer true coastal hospitality.

Commercial marine services, too, cater to recreational boaters all season. If there’s one area in the Puget Sound region to experience engine problems, where you need a new prop, and require fibreglass repair or rigging services, Port Townsend is it.

It’s not all that surprising after learning about its insightful maritime history that’s still very much part of the community and understanding its past (and present) is the best way to gain a true sense of this community.

Port Townsend History

After being named the sound’s second city in the mid-1800s and becoming home to the Puget Sound Customs Collection District, Port Townsend flourished as a port for commercial boats. It was a time when sea travel for consumers and goods was at its peak and vessels entering the Pacific Northwest had to stop in Port Townsend to clear customs.

Naturally, the region was one of the hottest international maritime hubs in the U.S. comparable to San Francisco’s thriving Barbary Coast with a moniker of ‘New York of the West.’  Development boomed with new residential areas, schools, hospitals, and services to accommodate the rising population and many marine trades set up operations along the shore.

But the bustling times weren’t meant to last. Following the development of a Union Pacific Railroad terminal in Seattle, commercial marine traffic in Port Townsend declined, the population dwindled, and many of the residential buildings and businesses were abandoned.

However, it was the opening of a pulp and paper mill in the late 1920s that provided some revitalization to the community, preventing Port Townsend from becoming a ghost town. Additionally, after withstanding a variety of economical challenges and the construction of waterfront developments over the decades, Port Townsend’s infrastructure rebounded and remains strong.

Today, it is an active port for recreational boaters and marine trades; many of the original buildings and homes still stand (after major restoration programs); the waterfront and a variety of residential areas on the bluff are named National Historic Districts.

One appealing attraction in the area that has stood the test of time is its scenic location. Mount Baker stands dominantly in the distance and sparkling blue waters flow along the shoreline. Although many modern fibreglass cruisers and sailboats are seen in the marinas and offshore, the vibrant wooden boat building community is still a major focus and point of pride in the region. Many of the marine trades offer their expertise in manufacturing and repairing wooden boats for a variety of fleets. Just outside of Port Townsend in Port Hadlock is the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding where additional models are built.

In fact, marine services are an integral part of Port Townsend’s economy. According to a 2017 economic study commissioned by the Port Townsend Marine Trades Association, the local marine industry creates 1,154 direct jobs (with another 1,000 related), which contributes $336.7 million (and another $135 million in wages) to the Jefferson County economy.

To get a true sense of Port Townsend’s maritime community, visit the Wooden Boat Festival - the largest event of its kind in North America. It’s held every September and more than 250 wooden boats are on display along the waterfront where you can admire the handcrafted creations of classics and contemporary models from the region and around the world. Many are also open for tours or sails. This year, the event is scheduled for September 9 - 11 and be sure to visit www.woodenboat.org for all of the details.

To learn more about its maritime culture, plan to see the Northwest Maritime Center located on the waterfront near Port Townsend’s Historic District and the Point Hudson Marina. While popular for hosting the famed Wooden Boat Festival, it offers educational programs through its fleet of boats, kayak rentals, and boat tours.

A Recreational Boater’s Port

Located 97 km (60 mi) from Seattle, Port Townsend is easily accessible by boat, car, or ferry. If you land along its waterfront under the power, one of the first places to stop is the Port of Port Townsend, located on the northeast corner of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.

There’s a choice of two marinas including The Boat Haven and Point Hudson. The former, which is the largest and the more ‘industrial’ of the two, is a full-service facility that can accommodate up to  475 commercial and recreational vessels with a maximum length of 30 m (100′ ft).  It offers transient moorage (available on a first-come-first-served basis) as well as electricity, water, gas, diesel, two pump-out stations in addition to showers, and laundry facilities. There are also 70-, 75- and 300-ton travel lifts.

The Point Hudson Marina is just as impressive with its quaint, artisan atmosphere and 70 transient slips. Like The Boat Haven, it has several amenities, has a beachfront RV park and is the only marina in the area that accepts online reservations (for the transient slips and the park). Both are operated by the Port of Port Townsend and go to www.portofpt.com for more details.

What’s more convenient is that accommodations, restaurants, grocery stores and Port Townsend’s downtown district are all located within easy walking distance from the slips. If you need to go further or stock up on supplies and/or groceries, the Jefferson County Transit system is a great option. Taxi services are also available.

Other mooring options include the Union Wharf and City Dock downtown.

Shop and Dine - Port Townsend Style

You’ll want to take some time to check out downtown Port Townsend. Stunning restored Victorian-era architecture provides a charming atmosphere and the eclectic mix of locally-owned clothiers, art galleries, and artisan shops will keep you engaged and browsing.

The city also takes pride in its local agriculture. A variety of restaurants offer farm-to-table dining experiences and of course, the local craft breweries reign supreme. Seafood, too, is popular. It’s common to see many restaurants serving Coho salmon cakes, oysters on the half shell, the catch of the day, and more.

Another option is to bring some of the local flavours back to your boat after visiting the popular farmer’s market, which was voted as ‘Washington State Farmers Market of the Year.’ It’s commonly held every Saturday from April to September from 9 am to 2 pm. For specific details visit www.jcfmarkets.org.

More agricultural delights can be discovered through the region’s award-winning wineries in Port Townsend as well as the nearby communities of Sequim, Port Angeles, and Nordland. Some are even nearby the marina.

Stay a Few Days or Longer

While the marinas are comfortable and accommodating, there’s no end on where to stay in Port Townsend. Experience historic Victorian charm at the Bishop or the Palace hotels or even check out some of the quaint B&Bs, which are located throughout the city and surrounding area. Many feature gorgeous views of the Straits.

With its many services, coastal culture, and ability to effectively serve recreational boaters, Port Townsend is a well-rounded Puget Sound destination. Stop for a day to refuel, restock supplies and re-charge, or plan a weekend trip to further enjoy this Puget Sound community. You won’t be disappointed.

Following safety guidelines from the 2022 season, Port Townsend’s restaurants and shops adhere to present COVID-19 guidelines but it’s always best to check www.EnjoyPT.com before your visit for the most up-to-date information.

Outdoor Adventure in and Around Port Townsend

You don’t have to travel far to enjoy the great outdoors. Here are just a few of the hot spots to get you started during your visit:

  • Larry Scott Memorial Trail

With the trailhead located near The Boat Haven, this 12 km (7.3 mi) multi-use trail is easily accessible for transient boaters. It leads along wetlands and the shores of Port Townsend Bay to Milo Curry Trailhead. It’s also part of the Olympic Discovery Trail and the Pacific Northwest Trail. www.countyrec.com

  • Fort Worden State Park

According to www.enjoypt.com, this state park is ‘a turn-of-the-century army base’ and located 2.4 km (1.5 mi) from downtown Port Townsend. It consists of beaches, kilometres of trails and excellent views of the Olympic and Cascade range. Fort Worden also has more than 200 rooms to stay the night or a few days and it frequently hosts music festivals in the summer presented by Centrum, an arts foundation. For more information visit www.centrum.org and www.fortworden.org.

  • Kayak Point Wilson and More

Launch a kayak from The Boat Haven or Point Hudson marinas and leisurely explore the waters of Port Townsend Bay. You can also paddle up to Point Wilson that’s just off the shores of Fort Worden or meander to Admiralty Inlet just across from Whidbey Island. However, it's not suggested to go around the point  due to a severe rip tide that forms under certain conditions www.enjoypt.com