Great Escapes in Friday Harbor

This is a popular San Juan Island destination that should be experienced every season.

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Words by Amy Nesler

If you want to escape to a boating community that has a slower pace, you’ll be enchanted by Friday Harbor. It’s a delightful, historic boater-friendly seaport with small, unique shops and restaurants, no stoplights, and a refreshing absence of fast-food chains.

It has a variety of attractions, too, which will provide a well-rounded trip. Charter a whale-watching tour or a guided kayaking trip one day, or take a break from the water and visit the San Juan Islands Museum of Art and the San Juan Community Theatre for plays and musical events the next. 

Friday Harbor was named a National Trust For Historic Preservation Destination of Distinction for its “dynamic downtown that has stunning architecture, cultural diversity and commitments to historic preservation. Although it’s only 2.5 sq km (1 sq mi), it boasts nearly 150 historic buildings reflecting the community's civic, commercial and residential history.” 

The Port of Friday Harbor, which operates three marinas and an airport within and just outside of the town limits, has long been considered one of the most important economic engines (albeit a green one) for the community and San Juan Island. Historically, the port was the base for salmon fishing fleets. Today, it’s a common stop among pocket cruise ships and the marinas welcome recreational boaters all season.  

Since the ferries and cruise ships dock at the port right downtown in Friday Harbor - and the marinas are conveniently located as well - it is easy to explore the one-square-mile downtown on foot. Stop into the number of local favourites like Griffin Bay Books and Island Studios or check out new island treasures like Cin Cin Goods or Salty at Heart Apothecary.

Bicycles, including electric-assist, are available to rent while available shuttles, rental cars and mopeds can take you beyond the town to further explore the area. Interested in history? Make a stop at the new visitor center at American Camp, which is part of the San Juan Island National Historical Park. 

While it tells the story of the border dispute known as the ‘Pig War,’ it incorporates Coast Salish storytelling as it was co-developed with affiliated tribes. It opened just in time for the 150th anniversary of the Pig War resolution. 

Curious about wildlife? Lime Kiln Point State Park is one of the best places in the world to see whales from shore. Other wildlife that frequent the park include seals, sea lions, river otters, and bald eagles.

The Port of Friday Harbor was the first entity to publicly acknowledge the tribal presence in the San Juan Islands with the dedication of acclaimed Coast Salish Native artist Susan A. Point’s ‘house posts’ along its waterfront park in 2004. 

Titled ‘Interaction,’ the posts represent the Northwest marine ecosystem and humanity’s role in keeping balance with the natural world. Other public art on display includes the steel ‘Fluke’ by Micajah Bienvenue located just behind the ferry lanes as well as murals on the outside of The Whale Museum and Ace Hardware. More can be found behind the Earthbox Inn and the Poetry Garden near Spring Street Landing. 

The beauty of the Islands is meant to be shared and locals urge you to learn the history of this special place to work together and ensure it endures. Here are a few ways to help preserve the qualities to make the area special and enjoy a better visit in the process. 

  • Eelgrass Challenges

One of the most critical and sensitive marine habitats disturbed by boaters when anchoring is eelgrass. This flowering plant grows in shallow water and nurtures many species including crabs and juvenile Chinook salmon and is where Pacific herring (a preferred diet of seabird, salmon, and marine mammals) lay their eggs. 

Eelgrass that is damaged by boat anchors can take years to recover. While the impact of each anchoring event may be small, the combined effects of thousands of boaters anchoring can be significant.

How you can help: While eelgrass is present in most of the popular anchorages in the San Juans, the shallow meadows can be easily avoided by anchoring in water deeper than 5 m (15 ft). Anchoring in areas more than 7 m (25 ft) will also prevent damaging the beds. Be sure to check out the comprehensive map of the area at https://sanjuans.org

  • Give Wildlife Room to Roam

Further up the food chain, orca, humpback, and minke whales call the Salish Sea home. Hearing the ‘whoosh’ of their exhaled breath or catching a glimpse of a dark fin is a thrill unlike any other. 

In all of the excitement, it can be easy to forget our presence has an effect. Marine mammals need space to find food, choose mates, raise their babies, socialize, and rest. When we get too close, approach too fast, or make too much noise, these activities can be disrupted and cause unnecessary stress. 

How you can help: When cruising near whales, fly the Whale Warning Flag. This will alert other vessels in the area that they are present so they too can slow down and observe from the proper distance as outlined in the Be Whale Wise guidelines (www.bewhalewise.org), a combination of federal and state regulations. 

The regulation includes slowing to 7 knots within a half-nautical mile and maintaining at least a 300-yard distance. Be Whale Wise applies in both U.S. and Canadian waters. 

Additionally, when approaching rocks or islets where seabirds, seals and sea lions inhabit, stay at least 15 m (50 ft) away. While it might be thrilling to see all the birds fly at once or the mammals slip into the water, the disturbance consumes some of their energy. The best rule of thumb to remember is if wildlife reacts to your presence on the water or on land, you are too close.

Is a Clean Vessel a Green Vessel?

Did you know grey water (soapy water) is often more damaging to marine organisms than black water (water containing human waste)? Black water may carry pathogens and drugs that can affect humans and marine mammals. 

However, the surfactants in soaps are far more deadly to fish as they can cause damage to the external mucus layer that protects them from bacteria and parasites. Luckily, while cruising the islands, you are never far from a marina that offers a pumpout facility and there’s even one at Stuart Island Marine Park.

So, it’s very important to manage greywater. This is why putting soap on an oil spill is discouraged and it also carries a heavy fine. Just because the label says biodegradable doesn’t mean it’s good for the environment. Look for vinegar-based cleaners that don’t contain phosphate, triclosan, which is very deadly to aquatic life, or antibacterial ingredients. For a list of recommended products, visit www.treehugger.com. 

Heeding these suggestions just makes for better cruising experiences today and most importantly, for future generations. The entire region is an exciting one to visit by boat and the Port of Friday Harbor is just one area to enjoy - and preserve - for continued experiences and enjoyment.