Finding Adventure on Cortes Island

An exemplary destination that offers some of the finest natural attractions along Canada’s BC Coast.

by

Words by Steve Fennell

It’s hard to explain the serenity of this coastal island that hasn’t already been explained before. What can be said, however, is Cortes’ low population, untouched nature, and remote location offers the exact criteria adventurous boaters crave.

Part of the Discovery Islands at the north end of Georgia Strait near the entrance of Desolation Sound, Cortes Island caters to visitors all season. Once you’re tied off in a slip or secured in an anchorage, it’s easy to find your own adventure, especially off the beaten path and away from the summer crowds.

While secluded, Whaletown, Squirrel Cove, and Mansons Landing are the three main communities and all offer marine fuel, groceries, local farmer’s markets (on select days throughout the week) and even accommodations, depending on where and when you visit. However, Mansons Landing is one of the main ‘hubs’ and where you’ll likely find the more essential services (but it’s still best to come prepared).

The Gateways to Cortes

Good moorage and docking options always provide peace of mind on extended trips and the government docks operated by the Harbour Authority of Cortes Island are a safe bet. The length of stay varies at each location and all facilities have a number of amenities. It’s important to remember that reservations are not available and space is based on first-come, first-served. The five locations include:

  • Cortes Bay Dock: Extending from shore on the southeast side of the island, this mooring option is conveniently located near the entrance of Desolation Sound, offering easy access to one of the best destinations of the BC Coast. Services include power, garbage disposal, unloading, and portable restroom facilities. It’s also common to share the docks with commuter float planes that frequent the dock.
  • Squirrel Cove Dock: This is a popular stop on the island’s east side where you can refuel (during high tide only) or replenish your galley with groceries at the Squirrel Cove Trading Co. Washroom, shower and laundry facilities as well as a post office located in the store are other amenities and services. The dock has power, garbage disposal, and a winch and it’s important to remember it’s only accessible during high tide and the water level is known to be approximately 1.8 m (6 ft) lower than what is indicated on the local tide chart.
  • Gorge Harbour Government Dock: This moorage option is located in scenic Gorge Harbour and some of the services include a boat ramp and garbage disposal. A post office is also available and is located next to the Gorge Community Hall.
  • Mansons Landing Dock: This government dock is on the island’s west side in Mansons Landing Provincial Park. You may have to share the dock with frequent floatplanes but you’ll appreciate the benefits of the garbage disposal, shorepower, and portable restroom facilities. A café, grocery store, medical clinic, and other services are within walking distance from the shore.
  • Whaletown Government Dock: Located just adjacent to the BC Ferries terminal, on the west side of Cortes in Whaletown Bay, the dock offers power, garbage disposal, a kayak launch and portable restroom facilities.

In the event space is unavailable, these areas also offer excellent anchorages just offshore with good depth and secure holding. For more information be sure to visit www.cortesharbours.ca

Another mooring option is The Gorge Harbour Marina Resort in Gorge Harbour. A full-service marina, it has 549 m (1,800 ft) of protected dock space to accommodate boats of practically any size and services include gas/diesel, transient moorage, 30/50-amp shorepower, potable water, and a general store with marine supplies and fishing gear.

What’s also appealing is its waterfront grounds, which encompasses a swimming pool and accommodations including a lodge, cottage, and two self-contained trailers. RV camping is also available with more than 30 sites. Once you’re settled in a slip you can rest easy or dine at the on-site Floathouse Restaurant that is fully licensed and offers scenic views of the harbour. For more information be sure to visit www.gorgeharbour.com

Nature Tailored for Boaters

The best way to explore Cortes Island is by visiting any one of the island’s provincial parks. Háthayim Marine Provincial Park (a.k.a Von Donop Marine Park) is popular among boaters and is located at the island’s northwestern tip along the southern terminus of the inside passage.

Spanning 1,277 ha (about 3,000 ac) and accessible only by boat via the Sutil Channel (marine chart #3538), it consists of a long, narrow, and protected inlet with secured anchorages where old-growth forests line its shore. While there’s rustic camping on land and an unmarked trail that leads from the bay to Squirrel Cove (that’s about 5 km (3 mi)), facilities are not available so come prepared with full (and empty tanks) plus ample supplies.

Other nice anchorages in the area include Quartz Bay to the southwest of the park as well Carrington Bay that offers protection from prevailing winds behind Jane and Little Jane islets.

If you land your vessel at Mansons Landing, the provincial park of the same name is ideal for day trips. It’s about a 30-minute walk from the government dock and Hague Lake has a sand beach, excellent swimming, wildlife viewing in Mansons Lagoon and short hiking trails. According to BC Parks, there’s a 1 km (.6 mi) trail from Mansons Lagoon to a local school with another steeper 1 km (.6 mi) trail that leads around its perimeter.  The park is day-use only, offers scenic picnic areas, and no powerboats are allowed on the lake.

Nearby is Smelt Bay Provincial Park (about 15 km (9 mi) from the Mansons Landing government docks where you can swim, and relax at the picnic areas or on the sand beach. You may want to visit the area when the tide is out to enjoy long walks and explore tide pools. Smelt Bay is the only park on the island that offers overnight camping.

Visiting Cortes among the Discovery Islands is truly a unique experience. Even though it's an extensive trip from ports to the south on Vancouver Island and the mainland of BC, it’s the perfect stopping-off point during long trips or an ideal final destination to enjoy some of the finest natural attractions in the region.

For more information visit www.ourcortes.com