Canoeing the Indian Arm

Super Natural British Columbia

Surrounded by rivers and ocean and inlets, Vancouver is a city defined by water. To get just about anywhere requires a boat or a bridge, and all that water influences everything from our climate to our culture. And even though Vancouver is a large and densely urban city, it’s never all that hard to find wild spaces on the water. One such place we discovered is the nearby Indian Arm.

Jutting north off the eastern end of the busy Burrard Inlet, Indian Arm is an 18-km (11.2 mi)-long fjord right in Vancouver’s backyard. Steep forested mountains, waterfalls plunging into the sea, this is a wildly beautiful place and well worth a visit. Much of the fjord is protected by parks — Mount Seymour Provincial Park on the western shore and Say Nuth Khaw Yum Provincial Park for much of the remainder — so the bulk of the Arm is undeveloped and pristine wilderness. Not bad for being only an hour’s paddle from North Vancouver.

We set out from Deep Cove, paddling across to Belcarra for a quick swim at Jug Island and a tour of the stately old decommissioned Buntzen Powerhouse before heading back to the western shore to set up camp at Bishop Creek. There are three campsites on the Arm, spaced conveniently apart to allow either a day trip or overnighter to Twin Islands,  or a leisurely 4-day circumnavigation of the entire fjord.

We had 4 days off so we did the expedition, paddling clockwise around the fjord, exploring up the river, and spending a night at each of the sites. Each camp is a little different — the flat grassy delta of Bishop, the beautiful rocky cascade at Granite Falls — but Twin Islands has particular charm. The tenting pads are secluded, nestled in the woods, and there is a giant cliff to jump off of into the sparkling water below. Great fun.

Being part of the ocean, the Indian Arm does have tides, so if you can, try planning your trip so you’re paddling with it rather than against it. The currents are never so strong as to be unnavigatable, but after a few hours of paddling you’ll be thankful for the little extra boost. There aren’t many beaches to pull out and rest at, and what few there are are mostly all rocky with a lot of barnacles, so bring a pair of water-friendly sandals or shoes!

Indian Arm and Burrard Inlet are the traditional grounds of the Tsleil-Waututh First Nation, and Say Nuth Khaw Yum Provincial Park is stewarded through a partnership between the Tsleil-Waututh and BC Parks. This is prime BC backcountry though, so services are scant or nonexistent. There are no showers, no garbage pickup, and no potable water, so come prepared and self-sufficient, and do your best to leave no trace. If you’re lucky, you might find some food though — fishing is good in many of the creeks and up Indian River, and if you come at the right time of year berries can be plentiful.

Being so close to the city it’s a popular destination for motorboaters and kayakers alike, and we hear it can get busy in high summer. With Vancouver’s mild climate you can visit at any time of year, and we’d love to see it again in the quieter, moodier shoulder seasons. But there’s just something special about those lazy languid bare-limbed summer expeditions. What’s a canoe trip without a hundred thousand swims? And even in the summer, we saw barely anyone at all.

Brief note on paddling safety: While relatively sheltered, the Indian Arm can still experience storms and unexpected strong winds, especially in winter. In the summer you’ll have to deal with strong anabatic winds that blow up the valley around midday, so try to plan your paddling in the mornings when the water is still calm. Paddle close to shore and bring life jackets and ropes and other safety equipment. Have fun out there!

Originally published here.