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Camping World
Dometic Veranda Room
Dometic Veranda Room
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Semi-circular pole holder.
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Install the down-pole into the bottom hole of the pole holder.
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Clips.
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Start sliding.
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Slide all the way to the end.
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Tina Hoffman and John McCabe
Dometic Veranda Room
Slide large panel.
Story & photos by Tina Hoffman & John McCabe
One of the smartest moves that we made with our motorhome was to install a patio room. We purchased a gazebo, before getting the patio room, and it had a lot of problems. We had enough of those issues after pieces of the gazebo broke off during a storm (that wasn't that strong.) Maybe we just purchased a defective $500 gazebo, but we decided to go with the extra room attached to our RV rather than chance another gazebo failure.
We chose the Dometic Patty O'Room (also called the Veranda Room). We were very apprehensive about getting a patio room because my daughter and I aren't the most mechanically inclined, but as we assembled it, we learned that it's similar to putting up a tent and we had it up within a few hours. We found it much better than the gazebo for many reasons, including that it keeps the heat off the RV (and the GFI in the kitchen) in the summer, you can install closets, get changed in privacy, keep your bicycles safe and so much more!
We measured our awning at five metres (16'), which meant that we had to get the starter package (935008.120) plus the door (935000.140) and one extra panel of just over one metre in length (935004.120). It can be confusing, so you should check with your supplier when placing your order. Let them know how wide your awning is and how high you want your patio room to be, and they should be able to help.
Start with your awning fully extended and about 2.5 metres high (unless you ordered the tall room, which is around 4 metres tall.) First install the black plastic semi-circular thing (Dometic calls it a "pole holder") by sliding it down to the far end (front of the RV). If you have a pull-strap, slide it all the way to the front of the RV, as well. Don't remove it as you may never find it again (trust me). Keep it to the outside of where your patio room will be.
Next, install the down-pole into the bottom hole of the pole holder. This is the hole that points straight down. Make sure that it's as tall and tight as you can get it. At this point, you have a decision to make. Do you want to be able to open the windows from the inside or the outside? We asked a lot of people, and the consensus seems to be to leave the openings inside for the rainy season so that rainwater runs down the outside of your patio. Otherwise, you can do whatever you want (but please have them all face the same way).
Next, you run the shower-curtain-rod-type thing through the front side-panel. Then, stick the pointy end of the curtain rod into the upper hole of the pole holder and the rubber part up near the top of your RV. Again, make sure it's tight against the RV. Also, get that end as high as you can, so that the pole is parallel to the awning arm. You can make this step easier by installing four of the "twist fasteners" by screwing them strategically into your RV (in a straight line from top to bottom and directly under the pole that your panel will go on). If this is your RV's first patio room, you will need to install them by drilling a 3mm pilot hole and then screwing them in. Slide the plastic pieces (called poly rope clips, but that doesn't make any sense) onto the edge of the panel and attach them to the twist fasteners. Just estimate where they'll go – you can adjust them later. Right now, you're just making it easier for you to get the pole up there.
Hint: If your "curtain rod" poles are a bit short (as ours were), cut off a piece of broomstick (we used a section about 75mm) and stick it inside.
You will install the door, main panel and any extra panels next (one at a time) by sliding them into the rear of the roller part of your awning and sliding them to the front. Align the first one (which should probably be your door, but it doesn't have to be) to the front panel and so on.
When the door and other panels are finished, install the rear panel the same way that you installed the front one. Remember to lighten your load by installing the twist fasteners and sliding the clips to meet them. Check all of the zippers to make sure that they work, and you will have just two more steps. First, take the stakes and lock your patio room to the ground. We've had to test this once, as there was a terrible windstorm while we were away. That was the last time our gazebo stood, but the patio held up perfectly!
Finally, you need to install the skirt. The skirt will prevent any unwanted creatures from getting into your patio room and cut down on the wind. It will also make the patio look better. Place the twist fasteners in a straight line along the bottom of the rig. Start by drilling one at the very front and one at the very rear. Pull the skirting taut and cut it about 8-10cm longer. You will need to cut it, as it is about 7½ metres wide. After you cut that, drill the rest of the holes (count the number of twist fasteners that you still have). Rather than drilling a hole in the fiberglass wheel wells, potentially cracking them, use the supplied "hook and loop fasteners." (Obviously, they aren't using Velcro® brand, or they would call it that.) Also, you'll have to cut around the steps. Dometic recommends cutting it 6mm wider than the widest step. Try to cut downward as little as necessary; that way, you will still have your rodent and wind protection that the skirt provides.
Very important! Make sure that you don't start the RV's engine at ANY TIME if the exhaust points in this direction – especially if it's diesel. If you need to run your rig at some point, remember to remove the skirting and open all the panels.