Words by Tom Skinner
My wife and I first visited Yellowstone National Park in 1967. What we both recall was the geyser activity of Old Faithful, the Paint Pots, and a black bear that approached the car and disappeared in the viewfinder of my Kodak Instamatic Camera. We tented for one night.
In September 2019, we visited Yellowstone again, traveling from Vernon, BC through Eastern Washington, Coeur D’Alene, ID, and then south east to the west entrance of Yellowstone National Park. We camped in a KOA just outside the park and made several day trips to the park. Unlike our last trip, we were prepared, having done some considerable advance research.
Depending on your location, the first thing you’ll need to do is pick your entrance. There are five to the park including the north, south, northeast, east and east points near West Yellowstone, Montana.
NPS Diane Renkin
A different kind of congestion in Hayden Valley.
This was the world’s first National Park, established in 1872 and created before the States surrounding the park were part of the Union. It covers approximately 9,000 square km (3,500 square mi) and is well known for the largest concentration of geysers and hot springs in the world.
At the top of our list of things to see was Old Faithful and we decided to go into the park in the late afternoon. We were greeted by a Park Ranger who gave us an approximate time for Old Faithful’s eruption. We knew it would be tight, but we hadn’t considered traffic. We estimated that we passed at least 200 cars creeping along as they exited. The posted speed is 45 mph.
Our first issue was finding parking near Old Faithful and by the time we found parking it was getting dark. Viewing Old Faithful in the dark is not recommended. So, we left to return the next day (a bit wiser). We also entered quite a bit earlier.
NPS Jim Peaco
Old Faithful Geyser
A spectacular sight - Old Faithful erupts approximately every 90 minutes.
We were able to enter before the early morning rush and drove directly to Old Faithful, making mental notes along the way regarding places we would like to stop. Old Faithful is still pretty reliable as it erupts approximately every 90 minutes and most Rangers have access to times for viewing – whether they are in the Visitor’s Bureau or on foot.
To kill some time before the eruption, visitors can walk the boardwalk area, read the interpretative signage, and observe the hot bubbling pools of water. There are additional geysers in the immediate area that can be observed from the boardwalk as well as birds and wildlife.
On our third day, we once again drove to the park early and covered quite a bit of territory, heading first to Canyon Village Visitor Centre. The notice boards provided quick updates and suggestions for the best locations to view the various sites. The Canyon Village Visitor Centre also houses public restrooms and a gift shop.
Tom Skinner
Wild elk are practically noticeable everywhere throughout the park.
Since this area was relatively new to us, we had read about the various landscape features to visit. Keep in mind that I had no idea there was a Yellowstone River, Upper and Lower Waterfalls, and Yellowstone Lake. I set about to see and photograph these destinations as well as Inspiration Point and Yellowstone Lodge.
Returning from Yellowstone Lodge through the Hayden Valley was a very successful afternoon of photography where I captured bison, elk, trumpeter swans, and various ducks. We made a decision after lunch to continue on the Grand Loop Road and head to Mammoth Hot Springs.
Within five minutes, a car was stopped in the opposite lane at least 300 m (330 ft) ahead. A large bison was in my lane and headed straight for our car. Of course I stopped, turned off the vehicle and waited for the bison to approach for a photograph. The whole experience was a good reminder of why the posted speeds of just 45 mph should be obeyed, and I decided to take my time and enjoy the sights.
NPS Neal Herbert
The view down canyon from Inspiration Point
The deep beauty at Inspiration Point.
In our initial visit to Yellowstone, we had never heard of Mammoth Hot Springs and upon our visit we were enthralled by the mineral deposits, which created a layered series of travertine terraces. In some areas the minerals almost looked like ice and others were multi-coloured.
From Mammoth Hot Springs, we then drove along the Grand Loop to Norris and then planned an exit at West Yellowstone. As I reached an area beside the river a Blue Heron caught my eye and as I turned around and parked, a half dozen elk were grazing or lying down in the field, a perfect end to a great day.
Yellowstone is popular and for good reason. In fact, it ranks sixth in popularity of all the U.S. National Parks. Three days is really a small amount of time for a good visit but if you do some research and take your time, you’ll have a great vacation and can explore a lot of what the park has to offer.
J Lillie
Mammoth Hot Springs is where dissolved calcium carbonate is deposited on the surface as beautiful ice-like terraces.