Mary Taylor
Rainbow Falls Trail
Words by Mary Taylor
Thinking of going to Alaska next year? It’s time to start planning, especially if you want to avoid being part of a long line of RVs bumping along buckled, frost-heaved highways. Try this route instead.
Alaska Marine Highway
The Alaska Marine Highway isn’t paved, doesn’t have a white line down the middle and doesn’t suffer from frost-heaves. Instead, it consists of 11 state-run ferries serving three regions of Alaska and calls on 35 coastal communities from Ketchikan to Dutch Harbor. The Marine Highway celebrated 50 years of service in 2013, but sadly it is under threat of downscaling or reduction in 2019 due to Alaska budget concerns. Therefore, act quickly if you are interested in seeing this part of Alaska.
Focus on Southeast Alaska by jumping on one of the ferries that depart from Bellingham, WA or Prince Rupert, BC and ply the protected waters of the Inside Passage. This is an opportunity to see some of the smaller towns that are rarely on the cruise ship itineraries. Whether you travel with a tent or any size RV, you’ll have some unique experiences. If you are using a tent you may be able to pitch it on the upper deck of some of the ferries. If you are traveling by RV, be sure to make reservations for the car deck on the ferry well before your trip. You won’t be able to stay in your RV during the passage so you might consider booking a cabin if it is a long passage.
Mary Taylor
View of Alaska mainland from Wrangell Island
Wrangell
Wrangell, one of the southern Inside Passage towns served by the Marine Highway that only gets occasional cruise ships, lies about 50 km (30 mi) north of Ketchikan. The city is a good introduction to Alaska as it offers all you would expect: stunning natural beauty, good fishing, wildlife, unusual hiking, Native American culture, and a friendly community.
Wrangell Island (population 2,500) is about 50 km (30 mi) long, but you can focus on the top 25 km (15 mi) if your time is limited. Wrangell has everything you should need: grocery stores, marine/sporting goods stores, cafes, and one gas station.
Camping: The city-owned Shoemaker RV Park (25 RV sites plus six tent sites) overlooks the Zimovia Strait with a view so good it nearly paralyzes you. When eagles settle down on a tree shading your campsite, you know you are in paradise. Nemo Point U.S. Forest Service area, about 23 km (14 mi) south of town, is a lower-priced option with great views. There are over 160 km (100 mi) of forest roads for the rough and hardy, which give you access to camping in the interior of the island. If you don’t mind driving dirt roads you can camp in the Upper and Lower Salamander or Earl West Cove campgrounds. There is a Forest Service cabin available for rent; visit the Forest Service Office for more details.
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Shoemaker Park campsite
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View from Earl West Cove
Fishing: You pick it—lake, stream, or ocean. Depending on the time of the year, you can catch king, red or pink salmon, that is if you can keep the Dolly Varden trout from taking your hook first. Visit the Department of Fish and Game for information or contact one of the several charter boat companies that host both day and overnight fishing trips.
Hiking: Lots! A beautiful example of the tropical rainforest trails in Southeast Alaska is the Rainbow Falls/Institute Creek Trail near the Shoemaker RV Campground. Caution: due to the muskeg nature of the ground in these forests you will actually be hiking on a raised board walkway with LOTS of steps. There are also trails directly out of town, out of the Nemo campground, and off the various forest roads. Be sure to take bear spray.
Biking: There is a six-mile bike path along Zimovia Highway or you can ride on any of the 160 km (100 mi) of dirt forest roads.
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Chief Shakes Tribal House
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Tlingit totem pole in Totem Park
Culture: Be sure to visit Tlingit Chief Shakes Island and Tribal House. The Tribal House is an exact copy of Tlingit structures before missionaries ended communal residency. It was originally constructed in 1940 and is located on Shake’s Island near the Nolan Center. Behind the house are several totem poles placed under a protective cover. More totems can be seen in the museum, in Totem Park, and in front of the Post Office. Most are carved to replicate the original ones created as early as the 1800’s During the 1930’s depression, CCC carvers recreated many of the historic totems.
Culture isn’t limited to native history, the Nolan Center houses the Wrangell Museum, Convention Center, the Visitor’s Center and the Castle Mountain Theaters with two theaters seating 24 and 200.
Search the rocks and sand at Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park for petroglyphs dating from ancient times. The best guess is that they were carved about 1,000 years ago by early Tlingit tribes. Replicas are on the viewing platform so people can make rubbings without damaging the originals.
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Wrangell Beach Petroglyphs
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Petroglyph Beach
Wildlife: If you want to see more wildlife than Sitka black-tail deer and eagles while driving around, take a boat or plane to Anan Wildlife Observatory just south of Wrangell for bear viewing. During July and August, the abundance of fish draws both black and brown bears. They are so focused on the food source that they ignore each other and even tolerate humans. The Forest Service requires a permit and limits the number of daily visitors during that time of year.
Other Activities: Wrangell serves as an excellent departure point for viewing the Le Conte Glacier near Petersburg or experiencing the Stikine River on the Alaskan mainland. In 1980 the nearly 450,000-acre Stikine-LeConte Wilderness was created along the 30-mile Alaskan portion of the river. The river empties into the Pacific Ocean five miles north of Wrangell after traveling 531 km (330 mi) through British Columbia and Alaska. River rafting and day or overnight sightseeing trips are available through several Wrangell charter and jet boat services. The Visitor Center and Chamber of Commerce can also offer more information.
If you are a golfer, Wrangell has a regulation 9-hole golf course aptly named Muskeg Meadows. It includes a covered driving range and a putting green.
The locals wax enthusiastically about their 4th of July events—try to attend if you can.
Final advice: If you don’t already have it, buy The Milepost. It’s a necessary publication as you travel through Alaska.
Mary Taylor
Sitka black tailed deer
Ferry Information:
Alaska Marine Highway System: www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs
Wrangell Visitor Information:
Wrangell Visitor Guide and Vacation Planner:
Pilot Publishing, Inc. wrgsent@gmail.com