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Crystal Cove Resort
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Amphitrite Lighthouse
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Tofino building
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Pacific Trail towards Broken Islands
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Wolf in Fog Restaraunt
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Story & photos by Barb Rees
Long Beach, Vancouver Island
Dripping clouds hung over Powell River on February 26, as we drove our Class C onto BC Ferries, heading for Vancouver Island. Storm watching on the west coast was my early birthday present - “Long Beach, here we come.”
From Courtenay we followed Hwy. #19 to Riverside Resort & Campground, beside Little Qualicum River. For $29 we had power and the sound of the river lulling us to sleep. www.myriversideresort.com
Next day we took Hwy. #4, Laburnum to the Upper Island Highway #19A. At the junction for #19, we stayed on #4 to Port Alberni. We stopped at Cathedral Grove, established in 1944 by lumber baron H.R. MacMillan. An 800-year-old Douglas fir stands 75 m high and 9 m in circumference. Walking among these giants is humbling.
The road then climbs to the Port Alberni Summit, before winding its way down into the bowl that holds Port Alberni - Canada’s ultimate fishing town. Check out the attractions on the way in: Coombs Country Candy for the best caramel corn, Emerald Coast Vineyards, Hollies Golf Course, and Wal-Mart for boondocking. Canadian Tire has a free sani-dump across from Wal-Mart.
Leaving Port Alberni, the Tseshaht Market is the last fuel stop before Ucluelet or Tofino. We stopped at the Kennedy River gorge to take pictures of waterfalls. From Hynds Creek the road is winding and steep, so drive with extra care and attention. At the Ucluelet/Tofino junction, we turned right towards Pacific Rim National Park, our dream destination.
When the Pacific rollers appeared for the first time I bounced up and down, clapping my hands like a kid on Christmas morning. On the other side of the park is the Tofino visitor centre, resorts, and surfing shops. Crystal Cove Beach Resort was our home for three glorious days. The nicest people run it and they don’t believe in added fees. They offer free showers, wood, WIFI, computer, tea and Starbucks coffee in the morning. Cozy cabins, some with hot tubs, hug the beach. www.crystalcove.ca
We walked to the cove at low tide to see the immense, rolling waves before we went in search of fresh crab. Crab Lady, across from Gas and Go, has live crab daily. For $15 we had a Dungeness crab for dinner.
The waves at Incinerator Rock sounded like a non-stop locomotive. The sounds and the cold wind blowing the tops off the waves made me feel small, yet mighty. My dilemma was where to point the camera first. Energy rose through my wet runners to the top of my cold head. We left when we were chilled to the bone. In the winter, be sure to bring adequate clothing and rubber boots (which we didn’t).
My birthday breakfast was a treat at Pointe Restaurant in Wickaninnish Inn, with a 240-degree view of the pounding surf. Beside Wickaninnish is Chesterman Beach, a surfer’s hangout. By 3 o’clock the squalls had subsided, so we headed to Incinerator Rock beach, where colossal waves lined up like a battalion of soldiers waiting to attack the shore. The dogs ran wild in the wind. We went wild with our cameras.
A trip to Tofino wouldn’t be complete without visiting the Eagle Aerie Gallery for Roy Henry Vickers’ works, housed in a traditional Northwest longhouse that Vickers’ built in 1986. His work spans the gamut from totem poles, to books, to limited edition prints. www.royhenryvickers.com
My birthday dinner was at the Wolf in the Fog Restaurant in Tofino, with its spacious dining room featuring a beautiful driftwood wolf sculpture. The menu is high-end and delicious.
Our last day was spent in the Ucluelet area. We headed for the gigantic waves on the Wild Pacific Trail and the Amphitrite Lighthouse. It was like watching the battle of the titans as the waves pounded into each other and into the distant Broken Islands. More pictures. Cold, we went for lunch at the Black Rock Resort on Big Beach, with its fabulous view of the waves.
Going home we hadn’t taken into consideration that there wouldn’t be any campgrounds open from the junction until after Little Qualicum Falls, where we turned on Chatworth Rd. and drove two2 kilometres m to get to Whiskey Creek Campground. It’s a small, 13-site campground with clean washrooms, heated shower rooms, and… quiet. whiskeycreekrvcampground.com.
Our West Coast storm watching trip was the best birthday present ever.
Barb Rees is a speaker, customer service trainer, and author of five RV Canada books from the working holidays her and husband Dave have made from coast to coast to coast of Canada. She presents at the RV Lifestyle Seminars in Kelowna annually. Her books can be found at www.write2dream.com