Western Canada Wonders

Alberta and BC offers some of the finest RVing in the country and the acclaimed parks of Banff, Jasper and Mount Robson combine to provide a true getaway season after season.

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Words by Steve Fennell

What makes the Canadian Rockies in Alberta and BC so appealing to RVers is new experiences can be enjoyed with every visit. While the towering, snow-capped mountains don’t change, the surrounding landscape does. Shimmering white snow as bright of diamonds blankets the region in the winter, while tall standing trees and greenery dominate almost every space in the summer, all sporadically separated by flowing streams, rivers, and bright emerald glacial-fed lakes – majestic bliss anytime.

This isn’t the first time we brought our experiences of the Canadian Rockies back to the pages of Snowbirds and RV Travelers. We, too, enjoy the splendor of driving along the winding, tree-laden roads surrounded by powerful, jagged peaks.

This time around, a few hot spots along The Icefields Parkway (Highway 93), Jasper National Park and Mount Robson Provincial Park were mapped out on the GPS. You can plan to visit these areas for few days or a week, or even make them an essential part of a longer journey. Either way, once you’re north of scenic Lake Louise, there’s no escaping all of their natural treasures.

The Icefields Parkway/Jasper National Park

If you have never driven through this part of the Canadian Rockies you’ll immediately realize the capabilities of your RV chassis. The north/south bound Icefields Parkway runs 230 km (143 mi) between Lake Louise and Jasper, and quickly evolves into a long, winding stretch of highway complete with switch backs that gradually lead to higher elevations, among bright turquoise lakes, views of the extensive Athabasca River, and trees that have stood the test of time. Lookouts are found at every major lake, and it’s advised to pull off at the designated areas for the best views.

Driving is not all that difficult but the exposure is certainly present, and having a vehicle that effectively hugs the road (or as much as an RV can) may ease the stress for some. Nonetheless, it’s always best to drive at a comfortable speed, and after about 90 minutes from Lake Louise, the Columbia Icefield (right off of the parkway), provides the perfect break.

We’ve been here before, but the Columbia Icefield, the largest in the Canadian Rockies, is always impressive. It spans 230 sq km (89 sq mi), has a depth of 365 m (1,200 ft) and shields the continental divide on a high alpine plateau.  The area sees an average snowfall of 7 m (23 ft) per year. But with such brief summers, the snow that actually does melt accumulates and forms into ice along the surrounding passes, creating a series glaciers - The Athabasca Glacier is one of them and is the most popular.

It’s here where you can experience little bit of winter in the summer and is accessible by reserving a Snocoach Tour at the Columbia Ice Field Center. This is the hub of the area and you can learn all about the icefields and Jasper National Park at the Parks Canada Information Centre. Better yet, climb aboard this acclaimed six-wheeled all-terrain snow monster for a two-hour tour of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding area – you won’t be disappointed.  They operate daily peak season, providing an experience that’s unique to any other in the Rockies.

One of the newest developments in the area is the acclaimed Glacier Skywalk, about 10 km north of the Icefields. Completed in 2014, you can enjoy 360-degree views of the Sunwapta Valley as the Skywalk is a glass-floor observation platform that extends out and over the valley floor, 918 feet below. If you experience vertigo from extreme heights from time to time, you’ll no doubt experience it here.  The views from nearby designated lookouts are just as impressive.

Continuing north on the parkway leads past rugged mountains, glaciers, river valleys and alpine lakes, allowing opportunities to fish (licences required), hike, bike and camp. Lookouts and campgrounds are throughout this corridor until you reach Jasper with more accommodations in the town site of Jasper and Jasper National Park.

At more than 11,000 square kilometres, this the largest National Park in the Rockies and part of UNESCO's Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site. Camping here is a true wilderness experience.  Wildlife sightings of elk, deer, moose, and bears are common along the highways, byways and campgrounds so always adhere to warning signs. Most campgrounds have bear-proof lockers to secure food – leaving it unsecured is like ringing the dinner bell for hungry bears.

There are several available in and around the area and range from offering the basics to full-serviced sites. At the time of publication, Whistler’s Campground – the park’s largest – was closed while being updated with a new registration centre, 18 new combined washroom and shower facilities, improved campsites, wider paved roads, plus upgraded water, sewer and electrical services (including 50-amp power). It’s expected to re-open in the spring of 2021.

What’s really convenient is many of the campgrounds are nearby to a series of popular natural attractions, which make for great day trips. These include stunning Maligne Canyon, the deepest canyon in the park; Maligne Lake, which is the largest natural lake in the Rockies (and has excellent camping); the meandering trail systems throughout Pyramid Bench; and the Miette Hot Springs in the Fiddle Valley, about an hour from Jasper.

The town of Jasper is also worth visiting where dining and shopping is prevalent while pharmacies, grocery stores and other services are easily accessible. During your window-shopping experience, expect to see elk and deer quietly grazing in the local parks, or creating traffic as they slowly contemplate their next move crossing Connaught Dr. in the heart of the town centre.

But what makes Jasper and the surrounding region so unique is its stillness. While it can get busy in the summer, the campgrounds are quiet, and the spring, fall, and winter are other great times when the atmosphere is just as striking.

Yellowhead Highway/Mount Robson Provincial Park

We continued on our journey from Jasper west bound to Mount Robson Provincial Park in BC via the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16). This east-west bound route consists of many spectacular highlights with Mother Nature’s stamp of approval on everything else in between. 

Even though the Yellowhead may often be overshadowed by the Trans-Canada Highway to the south – it’s an amazing, expansive route. It runs ‎2,859 km (1,777 mi) from Masset, BC in the Haida Gwaii Islands to Portage la Prairie, MB, making it a great way to further explore Western Canada.

Mount Robson Provincial Park is one of the highlights in this area of the Yellowhead and while it’s only about 25 km from Jasper, you’ll want to take your time and pull into any one of the rest stops to admire the views. One attraction you can’t miss is Mount Robson itself. It’s highest in the Rockies, standing 3,959 m (12,989 ft), and towers over the immediate region, making it a hallmark adventure feat for mountain climbers who travel from around the world to challenge its south and northeast faces.

However, the area is a playground for all levels of outdoor enthusiasts and popular for its extensive hiking trails, which range from super easy, scenic strolls to difficult (and by difficult we mean ‘plan to be away for a few days’). For instance, the acclaimed Berg Lake Trail spans 44 km (27 mi) (return excursion) that leads to Kinney Lake, the base of Mount Robson, through a valley of stunning waterfalls, and past more than 15 glaciers before reaching Berg Lake at an elevation of 1,628 m (5,341 ft). While not for the faint of heart, if you’re looking for outdoor adventure, this is it. 

But there’s a more relaxed pace to the park and can be found at various points including popular Yellowhead and Moose Lakes. Both are great for boating (with boat launches), kayaking and canoeing, and the fishing is second to none. While Yellowhead has one RV Park at its east end, come prepared as its dry camping-only. Yet, the payoff is the treed sites, excellent mountain views and a series of waterfront sites.  More choices of RV parks with services are found beyond Moose Lake to the southwest in nearby Valemount.

It’s impossible to discover everything these regions have to offer in just one visit, but the benefit of these routes is you can cover a lot ground and end up with amazing tales to tell. With many services when you need them and a vast choice of campgrounds, all set among some of the finest scenery in the world, a visit here is certainly worth your while.

More Top Stops and Day Destinations

Bow Lake: This glacial-fed lake is about half an hour north of Lake Louise and nearby to the Crowfoot Glacier at an elevation of 1,920 m (6,300 ft). Located along the Icefields Parkway, this is the largest lake in Banff National Park and makes for a great place to have a picnic or enjoy leisurely (and scenic) hikes – bring your camera.  

Peyto Lake and Bow Summit If you didn’t reach the capacity of your camera’s digital memory card at Bow Lake, you certainly will here. It’s less than 10 km (6 mi) from Bow Lake and is one of the many emerald-green oases in the region. For more adventure, the Bow Summit is accessible at the Peyto Lake’s parking area. This easy hike is about 6 km (4 mi), takes an average of 2.5 hours to complete and leads to the highest elevation along the Columbia Icefields Parkway – 2,088 m (6850 ft) above sea level.

Parker Ridge: Whether you want a rest from the road or looking for a great day hike, Parker Ridge is another easy hike and takes about 2.5 hours (one way) to admire the excellent views of the Saskatchewan Glacier, and the headwaters of the Saskatchewan River.

Athabasca Falls: The rushing Athabasca River meanders in and out of view along the Icefields Parkway in Jasper National Park and one of its highlights is Athabasca Falls. It can be viewed just south of the town site of Jasper at junction of Hwy 93 and 93A.