Story by Dennis Begin
During my first visit to Victoria in the 70’s, between riding the double decker buses and horse drawn carriages, it felt like “Merry Olde England.” Victoria today is known as The Garden City, famous for The Butchart Botanical Gardens in Brentwood Bay. It is the Inner Harbour, however, that attracts thousands of tourists to the ambiance of this West Coast city. The walking tour of the Inner Harbour starts at the reddish brick Custom House and ends at Fisherman’s Wharf.
Early History
The history of Victoria had its origin in Vancouver, Washington. This Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) fort or trading post is still located across the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon. As American settlers encroached on the trading post territory, the HBC looked north for a new harbour and arable land near the southern tip of Vancouver Island. The best site was a small harbour called ‘Camosun’ (rush of water), located near the entrance to an inlet called The Gorge.
This was the land of the Coastal Salish or the Lekwungen People who lived in the harbour, now known as James Bay. Chief Factor James Douglas in 1843 was ordered to build a fort, which is now a parking lot near the corner of Wharf and Fort Streets. The Oregon Treaty of 1846 ensured that all of Vancouver Island would be British and the fort was named after Queen Victoria. Douglas went on to develop the province and deserves the title ‘Father of British Columbia.’
Dennis Begin
The Victoria Custom House.
Custom House
Near the corner of Wharf and Fort Streets, the reddish brick Custom House is incorrectly associated with the 1858 Cariboo Gold Rush. Built in 1874, this was the first federal building west of Winnipeg. The building was also part of the agreement that brought BC into Canadian Confederation in 1871, along with the promise of a trans-continental railroad. Over the years, the Custom House was used as a Post Office and to collect federal port taxes. The walking tour of the Inner Harbour starts here.
Walking Tour
Walking west on the Wharf Street Pathway, the Empress Hotel on Government Street comes into view. Along the pathway is an assortment of tourist attractions including H20 Water Taxi, Flying Otter Seaplane Tours and Prince of Wales Whale Tours. The Causeway in front of the Empress Hotel is lined with buskers, vendors and musicians.
If you want to visit Port Angeles, downtown Seattle or Vancouver by water, book a passage on the MV Coho, the Victoria Clipper or the V2V ferries.
Dennis Begin
The luxurious Fairmont Empress Hotel.
Fairmont Empress Hotel
This prestigious hotel was built between 1904 and 1908 as part of the Canadian Pacific Railroad chain of luxury hotels across Canada. The architectural-style is called Chateauesque, typical of all CPR Hotels. Its mere presence dominates the Inner Harbour. Over the years, the hotel has been enlarged twice, renovated, remodeled and recently underwent a $60 million restoration project from 2015 to 2017. The Empress has 477 guest rooms, a new lobby, four restaurants, a spa, indoor pool and many other amenities. Despite the renovation over 112 years, the Empress has maintained a distinctive century appearance.
One long standing British tradition at the hotel is afternoon tea in the Tea Lobby. Patrons are allowed to select their tea, which comes with culinary delights, including scones, pastries and fruit. The current cost for this elegance is a mere $82.00 CAD.
The Empress has many local legends. One of those legends is the hotel is slowly sinking, having been built over the mud flat of James Bay. One of the best stories includes four ghosts who inhabit the hotel, including Chief Architect, Francis M. Rattenbury, although he was killed in England. Many famous people such as Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth II, John Travolta and Harrison Ford have been former guests.
Dennis Begin
Kwakwaka’waka Longhouse with Thunderbird Totem Pole.
Thunderbird Park
Located between the Empress Hotel and the government buildings is Thunderbird Park with its totem poles and longhouse. Adjacent to the park is the famous British Columbia Royal Museum. Opened in 1968, this museum has the three main galleries to include Natural History, Becoming B.C. and First Peoples. There are seven million artifacts and archival records preserving B.C. history. The museum also hosts special exhibitions such as the Titanic and even has an IMAX Theater. My favourite exhibit is Captain Vancouver’s replica cabin aboard the HMS Discovery.
At the rear of the park is the home of Dr. J.S. Helmcken, who was instrumental in British Columbia joining Canadian Confederation.
Legislative Assembly
Victoria is the Provincial Capital that overlooks the Inner Harbour. The first government buildings in 1860 consisted of five wooded structures nicknamed ‘The Birdcages.’ When they proved to be too small and leaked, construction was started on the present government buildings. The cost, a mere $923,000. As for the Birdcages, they burned down in 1957.
Take a free tour of the Legislature, starting with the two rotundas. The tour guides explain some of the customs of the Legislature such as dragging the Speaker to his Chair, the role of the Mace and two sword lengths between government and opposition benches. A must see is the Legislative Assembly at night when the lights glow among its grounds.
Dennis Begin
The Robert Bateman Gallery of Nature.
Robert Bateman Gallery of Nature
Across Belleville Street from the Legislature are the Canadian Pacific Marine Terminal, and now a gallery for the work of Canadian artist Robert Bateman. Bateman, who lives on Salt Spring Island, started his career teaching before becoming a professional artist. His subjects are birds and animals painted in a realistic life style. His interest also include environmental issues and protection of wild life.
Fisherman’s Wharf
Near the entrance to the Inner Harbour is a very colorful collage of restaurants/shops. Food ranges from Barb’s Fish and Chips to Mexican Seafood. There’s also an array of businesses from boutiques to eco-tours, such as Kelp Reef Adventures. Brightly painted floating homes add to this unique community. Victoria is not short on other tourist attractions. They include Chinatown, Bastion Square, Beacon Hill Park, Emily Carr’s House, Craigdarroch Castle and Clover Point.
Enjoy the walk through the Inner Harbour and B.C. History.
Dennis Begin
Mexican Seafood, one of the many dining options at Fisherman’s Wharf.